Death Becomes Her: Heroes Of The Past In Fragrances

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Death Becomes Her: Heroes Of The Past In Fragrances
Death Becomes Her: Heroes Of The Past In Fragrances
Video: Death Becomes Her: Heroes Of The Past In Fragrances
Video: Death Becomes Her: Magic Potion 2023, February
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Beauty editor Arseny Zagulyaev - about the fragrances of the name Sex Pistols, Marilyn Monroe and Diaghilev

Sergey Diaghilev

In September, a scent is released that is definitely worth paying attention to. The customer is unusual: not the Fashion House, but a museum. Victoria and Albert Museum London. Renowned performer: Roja Dove, one of the most famous and respected experts in the field of perfumery, the founder of the London perfumery landmark - The Roja Dove Haute Perfumery salon on the sixth floor of Harrod's. The fragrance was created for the opening of the exhibition Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes 1909-1929, which will take place on 25 September. It is dedicated, naturally, to its main character. It is simply named Diaghilev.

There is a reasonable fear: what will this Diaghilev project result in? Would he go to the perfume freak show, to the recently released fragrances of the 2010 FIFA World Cup or the city of Las Vegas?

Probably not. There is intrigue in the scent. Dove decided not to engage in impressionism and not to convey the mysterious Russian soul in the language of "head", "heart" and "base", but to use Diaghilev as a good reason to present his interpretation of chypre. Here it will be interesting to evaluate it.

At the same time, the museum workers in the official release draw a parallel between their collaboration with the perfume wizard and past retrospectives of Vivienne Westwood and Sir Paul Smith. Thus, the fragrance should be perceived not only as an addition to the exhibition, but also as an independent art object.

An association with Sillage de la Reine arises in my memory. It was five years ago. Francis Kurkdjan then got the idea to recreate the perfume of Marie Antoinette after reading the book by the historian Elisabeth de Fedo A Scented Palace: The Secret History of Marie Antoinette's Perfumer, which tells about the Queen's court perfumer. The premiere of the fragrance took place at a private party in Versailles. Initially, the bottle cost about $ 2,500. A year later, it became more readily available and was sold through the site of the Palace of Versailles.

Returning to Diaghilev, it is important to note that the fragrance will become a shining example of the trend of the last two years: a fashion for the heroes of yesterday has emerged in perfumery. New fragrances are dedicated to them, old ones are revived for their sake, they are made the faces of advertising campaigns.

Eau Sauvage 2010 campaign

Dior and Alain Delon

The step of Parfums Christian Dior is indicative. In the summer, updated versions of the Eau Sauvage and Eau Sauvage Extreme came out. One could find a young face for the scent. (Let's recall Miss Dior Cherie with Marina Lynchuk - the directorial debut in Sofia Coppola's commercial.) And it doesn't matter that one thing is a cheerful girly fragrance, and another is one of the best fragrances of the 20th century, which changed the vector of development of perfumery and for which René Gruau painted posters that have gone down in the history of fashion illustration. It is quite possible to find a young French actor - there are suitable faces. Or not quite young. Let's say Vincent Cassel is paired with the fall Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle Monica Bellucci. Why isn’t you a “sauvage” - a savage, that is?

René Gruau's posters for Eau Sauvage

However, they acted outside the box and, admittedly, very gracefully: they took a photo of Alain Delon, taken in Saint-Tropez in the year of the launch of the original Eau Sauvage. That is, 54 years ago. It is noteworthy that the original photo was shot by Jean-Francois Perier on color film, but for the campaign the image was transferred to b / w. Probably for more vintage and expressiveness. For the video, we used Delon's footage from "The Pool" in 1969. At the same time, at presentations of the fragrance, they do not just exhibit a portrait and play a video. Grandpa drives himself. In April he was in Moscow: he appeared on the stage of the Maly Theater and dined at the Bolshoi restaurant.

Paris Hilton Tease Campaign

Paris and Marilyn

Perhaps an even more curious example of turning to the past was given by Paris Hilton. She already has a solid part folder with a dozen perfumes. Most often, each next one is dedicated either to itself (Just Me, Heiress, etc.), or to fairy-tale heroes. The muse of her new fragrance Tease is Marilyn Monroe.Unlike Dior, Paris did not take old photos of her idol, but she herself starred in her image - she curled her curls and brought her blondeness to perhydration.

Sex Pistols

On July 12, the French chain Sephora began selling Le Parfum de Sex Pistols from L'Etat Libre d'Orange. The accent is obviously French on the last syllable, so read Sex Pistols. You involuntarily hold your breath, fearing what the punk perfume smells on you. Everything seems to be decent, even bourgeois. Soon, fresh bottles of Le Parfum de Josephine Baker will be loaded on the shelves of the same Sephora.

Creed windsor

Creed and Edward VIII

In the past year, there are also examples of the retro trend. The House of Creed has revived the fragrance that had been preparing for Edward VIII's accession to the throne in 1936. At that time, remembering the reputation of the young prince as a trendsetter and dandy, perfumers did their best. It was decided to collect ingredients from all over the "empire over which the sun does not set" in the composition. This is how the unusual Windsor cocktail of pine, lime, rose, cedar, eucalyptus and gin arose. The name comes from the fact that Edward, as you know, did not stay king for long, abdicated in favor of his brother and became Duke of Windsor.

Greed by Francesco Vezzoli

Francesco Vezzoli and Marcel Duchamp

By consonance with Creed, the artist Francesco Vezzoli, who became famous for the remake of "Caligula" by Tinto Brass in the scenery of Versace, named his perfume hoax project. In February 2009, his exhibition was held at the Rome branch of the Gagosian Gallery, where the main exhibit was a bottle of the non-existent fragrance Greed. Vezzoli is explicitly quoting Duchamp. Back in 1921, he, together with Man Ray, came up with a new object of art - a certain scent of Belle Haleine: Eau de Voilette. The provocateurs took a bottle of the real-life fragrance Un air embaume from Rigaud and stuck their label on it.

Marcel Duchamp as Rrose Selyavi (1921). Photographer Man Ray

The "face" was Duchamp himself, who renamed himself Rrose Selyavi and appeared before the lens of Man Ray in a flirty hat, a dress with ruffles and languidly lined eyes. The unique bottle has survived to this day. It was acquired by Yves Saint Laurent. After the death of the couturier, the art object was put up for auction at Christie's in February 2009. Vezzoli not only photographed himself in a Duchamp make-up, but also came up with advertising posters for the fragrance with black and white photos of modernist artists (the most spectacular ones with crying Tamara de Lempicka and Eva Hesse), and also ordered Roman Polanski to advertise Greed with the participation of Natalie Portman and Michelle Williams.

Do all these examples mean that the vector of perfumery is now directed to the past and that perfumery is turning into a kind of dead poet’s society? Of course not. Living, living and active celebrities have both released their own signature lines of fragrances, and continue to do so. As proof, I will simply give a list of those who have already or will have new items this year: Jennifer Aniston, Mary J. Blige, the Beckhams, Mariah Kerry, Kate Moss, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jessica Simpson, Bruce Willis …

The thing is that nowadays there are so many perfumes produced and they are presented so often that each of them needs its own original presentation. This means that there is a place for everyone. A scent from a modern star is conceived of as a blockbuster movie. And the aroma from the hero of yesterday is about the same for perfumery as a biopic is for cinema.

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