Perhaps this is a seditious thought, especially from the lips of a beauty editor, but nevertheless I will express it. 95% of the jars and bottles that people regularly buy in cosmetic stores and corners do not need them, if you look at the matter from a purely practical point of view.
From this very point of view, the beauty industry is generally the most mysterious of all the industries I know. The volume of production, the volume of sales and the volume of money supply that is spinning in this industry is completely incomparable with its real need for you, me and all other buyers. Meanwhile, buyers regularly vote in rubles, dollars, euros and other currencies to ensure that it continues to develop, prosper and fool us. And all because this industry has long groped for those buttons that should be pressed in order to evoke an unconditioned reflex in us.
1. "Buy it, otherwise it will be worse!"
Scaring you half to death, and then offering a pill that will save you from future misfortunes is a method widely used by manufacturers of pharmaceutical drugs, potions and ointments sold in pharmacies without a prescription. Some cosmetic brands work on the same principle, positioning themselves as “cosmoceuticals” or simply emphasizing their closeness to medicine. The most striking example is the Vichy brand. In the recent past, one glance at Vichy's advertising images was enough to make a normal person feel uncomfortable: either the model had half of her face covered in some scabs (advertising for a moisturizer), or half of her priests in couch rivets (advertising for cellulite). The other half, fertilized with Vichy, looked great, of course. And at the presentation that the brand arranged for journalists, the faint-hearted and impressionable should have been banned altogether. The aging process of the skin was shown there with a clarity close to cruelty. And when the spectators' palms became wet and their eyes became anxious, they were offered a solution on how to avoid such metamorphoses - with the help of a jar of Vichy, of course. Now the brand is gradually moving away from such barbaric methods, lowering the dose of fear on its images and increasing the dose of beauty - advertising for NormaDerm Tri-aktiv is much more humane than previous ones, but the gravitation towards the horror genre is still noticeable.
In general, the most common beauty horror stories are age and cellulite. Girls are desperately afraid of both - although, in my opinion, if it were not for the efforts of my glossy colleagues (including my own), they would never have looked with such zeal for signs of "premature aging" on their faces, and on my thighs - traces of "orange peel", which in fact (and this is admitted by the manufacturers themselves) is actually a secondary female sex characteristic. But the industry works smoothly: first you need to find a problem, then make sure that consumers find this problem, then offer a means of solving it. As a result, we have a huge number of products that have the words "anti-age" and "anti-cellulite" in their names - simply because these two words have a hypnotic effect on customers. Options "anti-wrinkle" (against wrinkles), "lift" and "lifting" (against loss of elasticity) also work well, but of course, they cannot compete with anti-age.
The pinnacle of this successful marketing discovery I consider Alterna and Aldo Coppola anti-age hair lines and Sally Hansen Age Correct Growth Treatment anti-age nail care. No doubt, hair and nails also age, of course. However, the usual good shampoos and nail polish strengthens them just as well. Since names are proper names, there are no laws governing which means have the right to be called that and which does not. And nothing prevents manufacturers from attaching anti-age to a chair or a dresser. Therefore, I am looking forward to the appearance of anti-age mascara.
How marketing works: Sally Hansen and Alterna invented remedies for aging nails (1) and hair (3), and Vichy (2) uses scary images in advertising campaigns
As for the notorious "premature aging", then here is generally a mysterious story. Not a single specialist has ever been able to give me a clear answer to the question of what kind of aging can be considered premature. Wrinkles around the eyes at 25 are caused by a million factors, from facial expressions to genetics, as well as loss of tone at 35. All attempts to influence genetics that cosmetic brands make from time to time, vaguely claiming that they "work at the genetic level," look, from the point of view of serious scientists, ludicrous. However, the brands are actively developing the theme of "combating premature aging" and under this cover they offer us to buy the 155th jar of cream.
In fact, no anti-age cosmetic product will save you from age when it comes. And no anti-cellulite remedy will remove cellulite if it is genetically programmed. The most that creams, serums, lotions, essences and emulsions can do is to keep the skin hydrated, relieve irritation and eliminate the feeling of tightness. And it is absolutely all the same whether they have any magic phrase in their name or not.
As the legendary woman cosmetologist Joelle Siocco recently said at a press conference: “There are no bad creams in the world now. You just need to find a tool that will suit you. " So if you do a search, then it is in this direction, without being distracted by beautiful advertising slogans and without acquiring another jar with an inscription that matches the meaning.
2. "Buy because it's expensive!"
The brands at the top of the price Olympus are taking a different path. They treat their customers anxiously and do not frighten anyone, God forbid, with "premature aging." (Moreover, their clients, as a rule, have already crossed the threshold when wrinkles are perceived as a universal catastrophe.) They convince with a ruble, setting for their money a price for which you can buy half a car or at least a moped, and start the buyer's simple mechanism: "Only what really works can be so expensive!" The ReVive brand follows this path - some funds cost about 40,000 rubles. and contain, if you believe everything that they write, the component EGF (epidermal cell growth factor), the discovery of which was awarded the Nobel Prize. There is also a set of Guerlain, called the "Royal Orchid" - worth a total of 35,000 rubles. There is a Beauty Diamond Carita cream, which is a little less than 100 thousand rubles, and a cream from the "platinum" line of La Prairie (27 000 rubles).
And finally, the top (at least for today, tomorrow someone will probably climb even higher) is the Luquid Surgery Serum from Medical Beauty Research (211,000 rubles). At the same time, the bottle does not at all amaze with its decoration, as is often the case with expensive brands, but, on the contrary, is emphatically modest. The tool has a nickname - "Liquid Surgeon", and it claims to work as well as a scalpel. Solid surgeons (i.e. living professionals) are skeptical about him - they say, only a scalpel in good hands can be better than a scalpel.
ReVive (1), Medical Beauty Research (2) and Carita (3) convince the effectiveness of their products, selling them at incredible prices
And, nevertheless, funds in this transcendental price range are becoming more and more, and their cost is getting higher. A few years ago, for example, the $ 900 Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Re-Creation Day and Night set seemed to be the height of insane luxury - and today it is almost perceived as the norm.
But nowhere has it been proven that funds that cost more than five of your salaries work an order of magnitude better than those that do not cost that much. It has only been proven that the button "buy because it is expensive!" works flawlessly for a certain audience.
3. "Buy because it is beautiful!"
But creams and serums are not so bad. The real trouble and real mass addiction are glitters, lipsticks, powders, that is, make-up. Although, in fact, if you think about it, one eyeshadow palette can be used for a year. One lipstick - at least six months.One lip gloss - several months. Nail polish generally tends to dry out before it ends.
Then how - and why - hundreds and thousands of decorative cosmetics units are swept off the shelves every day?
Most beauty brands, having adjusted to the fashion rhythm, release two seasonal makeup collections a year, plus special Christmas ones. In them, as a rule, only the color scheme changes, and also a certain star-product is released in limited edition, a kind of hit. Sparkles are generously added to Christmas. The color scheme either repeats the color scheme that can be seen on the catwalks this season, or is created in such a way that new shades of shadows are mounted with the main colors of the season. However, any makeup artist will tell you that makeup should be in harmony with eye color and skin tone, and they have not yet learned this trend - to change every season.
Nevertheless, seasonal collections are sold like hotcakes. Why? Because it's beautiful! When we buy decorative cosmetics, we are actually buying toys for ourselves, which in fact are not so many adults have, because only that which has absolutely no practical use can be considered a real toy. With this in mind, the brands focused on visual and game effects. And they reached unprecedented heights in this.
The reason to buy new products from Guerlain (1), Giorgio Armani (2), Chanel (3) and Dolce & Gabbana (4) is not only the content, but also the packaging
My favorite recent toys are Guerlain's 68 Champs-Elysees Fall / Winter Eyes Palette, The Lip Jewels from Dolce Gabbana's Christmas collection, a Chanel item that is difficult to classify from the Soho collection, released specifically for the boutique's renovation. Chanel in New York's Soho borough. I am pleased that the packaging for Ecrin 6 Couleurs Guerlain was created by the designer India Mahdavi, who made many unusual things and interiors, including the Monte Carlo Beach hotel in Monte Carlo and the Le Germain restaurant in Paris. The functionality of the palette (although the colors are excellent, and it is convenient to apply shadows) for me still fades into the background. Likewise, I love The Lip Jewels Dolce Gabbana: the motivation to buy this palette is not so much the need for a new lipstick, but rather a heavy ruby cap. And the value of the star product Chanel from the Soho collection for me is not that it is both blush and shadow, but rather that it is a pure sample of pop art in a beauty interpretation. As well as the shadows Armani Eyes To Kill. I’m unlikely to wear blue eyeshadow. But, alas, she is not able to resist beauty. And in this case, to be honest, I see no reason to train willpower.