Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev: Report

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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev: Report
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev: Report

Video: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev: Report

Video: Fashion Channel / MBFWK: L'Officiel на Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev 2022, December
Anonim
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A few days before the start of Kiev Fashion Days, it became known that they were renamed Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev. The surprise was not caused by the fact itself, but by the fact that the organizers did not hesitate to admit that the decision had been made a day before the press conference. This haste was surprising for a conservative brand. But the fact that KFD acquired such a significant status immediately raised the event in the eyes of the Kiev adult fashion scene from the position of “that strange hipster event that Kazbek and Dasha are doing” to … no, I’ll better illustrate this with a well-aimed sketch by Tatyana Kremen, co-owner of the Kiev store “Puree” and participant of the exhibition area MBFWK:

- Tell me, - the parking attendant at the Republican stadium asks in an intimate tone, - how long will this last?

“Until Sunday,” I say.

- Will there be tonight too?

- Well yes…

- And will there be such machines as yesterday? Such … - makes a circle with his hands, - well, such decent, rich. With the ladies! - the last word, aspirated.

- There will be! - I promise and run on.

The next day, preoccupied:

- No, well, yesterday the audience was somehow worse, worse. Tell me, what will they be like today?

The second change was the new venue - the restored NSC Olimpiyskiy. Unfortunately, he was far behind Arsenal.

Well, when the list of designers was finally approved, it turned out that only Sasha Kanevsky remained from the original composition of the progressive and young (namely, the organizers were always proud of him). Those young designers who were chosen to be shown on the main podium, under other conditions, could only count on participating in presentations - the Pretenders program.

Impressions

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Show Sasha Kanevsky as a result, he pulled out a podium program. The choice of the main references of Kanevsky fell on the subculture of motorcyclists, which was reflected in the details of the protective equipment (uniforms of different subcultures - Kanevsky's trademark technique), as well as in the "spirit of frailty, imperceptibly hovering over the podium." This spirit manifested itself especially clearly in the context of a leather vest-skeleton on the healthier model Lola Dikova. Rusty prints, neoprene swimwear with anatomical details and hard denim combined with shoes and accessories (high boots and bags that resembled canisters and motorcycle tanks) Kofta formed one of the best collections of Kanevsky.

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Anna October, which closed MBFWK, also found inspiration in other worlds. Music that introduces a trance, smoke, which turned out to be superfluous, because, settling, made the catwalk slippery, the luminous makeup of the models and even such detail as the directed light green laser beam to the models on the ankles created the perfect show in the style of “mysterious northern forest ". This is exactly the case when a well-directed show can distract from the shortcomings in the collection. The collection itself consisted mainly of dresses with a peplum or with trains, and the main fabric was chiffon with small polka dots of different colors. Some dresses were decorated with fringes, which were sewn either sideways or in a second layer on the skirt.

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Another woman from Odessa Julia Pascal preferred to use a variety of synthetic fabrics in the collection, achieving the now fashionable effect of wet leather and shimmer. But, unfortunately, it was too obvious that the fabrics were not of the highest quality, and the show of dresses and skirts made of perforated fabric in white, black and blue colors saved the show. This technique, which Christopher Kane used so well on leather a few seasons ago, made us remember the show because there’s not much more to say about it.

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Collection of the second line of Lilia Pustovit I was remembered primarily for the details: Peter Pan collars on gray sweatshirts falling over one shoulder, bright red ribbons and accessories in combination with bright green and smoky grayish fabric in a small print.Pustovit has one remarkable quality: she knows how to stop in time and prefers innuendo, which always has a positive effect on her collections.

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Kostya Omelya, once part of the O.K. brand, like Miuccia Prada last season, and this season Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, was inspired by marine life and water. So many scales, sequins and other marine references would be hard to find in any other collection. In this case, he had to stop at the third or fourth outfit, but it was a failure to trim the entire collection with sequins. And it was a complete failure in the final to choose the song Florence and The Machine, which sounded live in the final of the Chanel SS 2012 show.

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And now we come to the shows Anton Belinsky and Sasha Glybina… These two very young designers used to be represented in the Pretenders area, where their collections looked nothing more than experiments, but on the main catwalk it was a fatal failure. The best thing about such an experiment on immature designers was Robb Young.

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Robb Young, writer, author of the book Power Dressing: First Ladies, Women Politicians & Fashion: “You have to understand that this is a young industry, but during the shows of some young designers, even I could see that they had problems with the structures, that some things did not fit very well even on models. Of course, it's cool that young designers are helped here, that they are provided with such a platform and that they receive so much attention. But at the same time, this is a lot of pressure. It seems to me that it is not worth highlighting young people too early, because it can also hurt them a lot. One and the same designer will look completely different at different stages of his development, and if a buyer or a journalist sees his things too early, it can turn out badly for the designer. After all, the first impression is the most important."

Dariush Haj-Najafi, fashion-editor of British Vice: “It seems to me that the music could be a little louder and the straight catwalk look more professional. I also hope that next time there will be more new names, young designers, as well as expand the exhibition area. I missed photo exhibitions. But we all understand that this is a young brand, this is the beginning. Therefore, I do not criticize absolutely, I just want to help to some extent. But lectures are very unusual, you should be proud of this, because this is almost never done anywhere. As for the designers, I liked the show by Sasha Glybina, and this style and subculture are close to me too."

Romain Bro, co-founder and buyer of clothing store RA13: “I liked the organization, it's amazing how in just three seasons it was possible to achieve such results. But as a buyer, I miss something like a showroom after the show. It would be nice to give space to each of the designers and invite us to the presentation later to get to know the clothes better. I think this is a great idea. It won't cost money and will only benefit the designer. It seems to me that it should be done by the next season. After some shows, I went backstage to see the clothes and chat with the designer, but everything was already rolled up in plastic.

I'm also a little shocked how early designers start working here. In our country, the first full-fledged collection is made at the age of 27 at best, but here - not having finished their studies yet. I would recommend studying first. I've looked at the work of some designers, and they were interesting, but absolutely obvious - not yet completed, incomplete. I ask: "How old are you?" - "19". Imagine, he is 19 years old and has already founded his own brand. It is very strange. After all, he knows nothing about fabrics, about patterns, about business. In order to learn this, it takes time and a good school, which does not exist in Ukraine now”.

Lectures

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This season, the lectures were informative, and, most importantly, they were delivered by historians and theorists of fashion, as well as fashion editors of the most advanced magazines, with whom it would hardly have been possible to communicate in other conditions.I would like to note this point: it is communication with such people that radically changes the psychology of parochialism, which is more or less present in everyone who is not an inhabitant of the four fashionable capitals, and for this, of course, thanks. And thank you for the sincere laugh, which constantly cut off some of the lecturers when one of the translators made mistakes. Even poor English or very well-mannered people crawled out of their chairs laughing.

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Emanuele D'Angelo, photographer, fashion editor of Pop magazine: “I was surprised that so many young people in Ukraine are interested in fashion. Not only was the hall at all the shows was packed, but also many people stood on the balcony and watched the shows from above. And I also really like that lectures are held here, I have never seen such an educational program. Appreciate it."

The lecture hall, which was conceived as a presidential box, had an amazing view of the stadium, just for the sake of this it was worth going to lectures.

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The topic of the lecture Valerie Steele, a historian and theorist of fashion, had the question: "Is fashion an art?" Steele in an accessible manner proved that, most likely, yes, but why bother asking such a question, if you can simply say, for example, that Alexander McQueen was just a brilliant designer. And her final phrase: “I love fashion, because there are few spheres in the world that cause so much admiration and hatred” - served as a kind of leitmotif for the entire MBFWK, because only this made us forget about the lack of Wi-Fi, delayed shows and the general feeling chaos, which, to the credit of the organizers, volunteers helped to overcome.

Kiev brand Ksenia Schnaider held its show online - the video is dedicated to the preparation for the show

Each time you are surprised how much you can do with pure enthusiasm and faith in your work. Now, having such a significant status, it is better not to take risks and bring under faith a more solid platform for strategic planning, more serious selection of participants and organization of the exhibition space.

Photos: Evgeny Borisovsky

Read also:

  • Report from the first season of Kiev Fashion Days
  • Report from the second season of Kiev Fashion Days

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