Young Experts On The Collections Of The BHSAD Alumni

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Young Experts On The Collections Of The BHSAD Alumni
Young Experts On The Collections Of The BHSAD Alumni
Video: Young Experts On The Collections Of The BHSAD Alumni
Video: Секция «Теория и исследования в иллюстрации» 2023, February
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Friday evening in the courtyard of the Strelka Institute there was a show of graduation collections of graduates of the course "Fashion Design" of the British Higher School of Design. Wonderzine watched the show with three students from other departments - Fashion Business, Fashion Communications and Fashion Styling, and then asked them how the show turned out and how the young designers could be successful from their point of view.

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Liza kologreeva

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Ekaterina Hussein

Fashion Styling graduate

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Vera Kuzmicheva

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Zalina Verkhovskaya

About the organization

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The organization of the show was at a very high level. A wonderful place was chosen in the very center of Moscow: not every great designer can dream of this, what to say about graduates. Of course, it was a bit crowded, but this only shows the interest of others. Although I'm a nitpick, I loved the models, the soundtrack, and the lights. The only negative point - the screen with the names of the designers was within reach of only half of those present.

About individuality and practicality

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It's okay to have a lot of complex elements in the debut collection. Novice designers seem to say: "Look how I can!" What is missing is the colors. Gray, black, blue, brown jackets and coats of different designers merged into a single mass. Although, on the other hand, if you really want color so badly, then go to the Slava Zaitsev show. There weren't any macaroni necklaces, colored paper suits, and papier-mâché shoes and that's fine. Upset that most of the outfits are designed for models. On girls with a height of 170 cm, these dresses, jackets and trousers will not look. I'm wondering if designers can work with common people.

About the best collections

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I don't know any of the designers personally or indirectly, so I can judge objectively. I liked what Katya Mikhailova did: thin models in flying translucent dresses looked like nymphs. There was good styling at the show - the right shoes, hairstyle and accessories.

I would gladly take a few things from Zalina Verkhovskaya for shooting, and this is a decisive factor for me when choosing “like / dislike”. Kshysya Kuzmina plunged headlong into the end of the 19th century and emerged from there, taking with her several beautiful dresses. It is sad that others gave a little bit of museum mothballs. Irina Gainullina has created images that are laconic and correct in their irregularity. I would like to take a closer look at the outfits made by the hands of Ekaterina Fedchenko.

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Katerina Mikhailova

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Katya Stern

About quality and design

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Things fit great, but the fabrics of many pumped up. But I hope these are financial constraints, not a matter of taste. The only advice for everyone is that things need to be steamed to perfect condition. This applies to both stylists and designers. If on the set you can still somehow hope for the help of Photoshop, then what happens on the podium cannot be corrected.

About style

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A stylist at the show is a must: he should be almost the right hand of the designer. Do not impose your opinion on him, but delicately and objectively evaluate the collection and point out mistakes. With better styling, many collections could look fresher. Take the same Kshysya Kuzmina - with a new hairstyle, the clothes would play in a new way. Many designers underestimate the importance of taking a lookbook. But you can sew a million amazing outfits, but shoot it in such a way that no one even looks in their direction. I understand that designers' collections are their children, and they do not want any advice and criticism from outside. But this is a harsh industry, so the experience and advice of a stylist while shooting a lookbook will definitely not be superfluous.

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Evgeny Golubev

Fashion Business graduate

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Katerina Mikhailova

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Katya Stern

About the organization

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Controversial impression.On the one hand, there is still a show of young designers-graduates, and you need to make a big discount on this, on the other hand, nobody canceled the canons. It immediately struck the eye that the site could not cope with the number of guests and not everyone had enough seats, and taking into account the temperature regime, it is not very pleasant to sit back to back. The light was very weak and incorrectly exposed, constantly hitting guests sitting in the VIP zone in the eyes. Sound and musical accompaniment at the level. Personally, I did not have enough emotional and semantic message, everything went very smoothly and modestly, but we are talking about showing young energetic guys, I wanted an explosion, a sense of challenge, dynamics. But it turned out that the guests got into some kind of story taken out of context, without input and logical conclusion. Of course, you can find fault with many points over trifles: and that the track in the defile zone was not glued (the models constantly stumbled), and that the heels slipped over the painted coating, but these are all trifles. The main thing is that the event has passed, and, despite the forecasts of weather forecasters, it was very successful.

About individuality and practicality

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I think that speaking about the graduation event, in principle, one cannot talk about the level of the collection: it was announced initially - graduation, in other words, starting, beginner, giving the right to take a big step into the world of fashion and declare itself. Therefore, from the point of view of the report on the work done and the skills gained, all young designers have coped, but from the position of "declare themselves" - only a few. It is impossible to learn talent, it either exists, or … you have to look for it. Of course, the collection did not shine with a variety, everything that was presented fully reflects modern (albeit hackneyed) "consumer trends". Again, personality is the category of “master”. I partly understand the guys: it is difficult to reinvent the wheel without having a name, it was more important to show what you can be capable of, what inclinations you have, and I think the guys coped with the task. Although I am extremely surprised that everyone turned out to be about the same level, and I really wanted a provocation, at least one non-standard collection in spite of all.

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Christina Kapitanaki

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Kshysya Kuzmina

About the best collections

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Since the show was a bit impersonal in terms of its scenario, it is difficult for me to single out one, and it would also be dishonest to say that the collections sunk into my soul. Many guys had strong things: I liked a couple of dresses (one of them reflected light on the floor), three interesting jumpsuits, two pairs of boots and, of course, a headband with petite faces - very cute. Therefore, as impersonally presented, so impersonal and evaluate.

About commercial success

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Unfortunately, in our time, the success of a business is less dependent on the designer. I think, with competent professional management, everyone

from the presented guys will be able to become a star, and we all perfectly know many such stories. And yes, I think the guys are ready to create and create, the question is whether they are ready to sell their product morally: not many people have enough strength, and talent plays the least role here. I think you need to stock up on perseverance and believe in luck.

Of course, it is worth noting that most of the items presented are wearable, not divorced from the real world, which suggests that the thought of the end consumer accompanies them in the process of work. The main thing is not to cross the line

from thoughtful to boring, commerce is built not only on the basic things, which at one time young McQueen showed us. You always need to be able to feel the needs, the environment in which you create - only then will you get a reliable commercial symbiosis between the public's desire and the author's vision. However, for this, next to the creator there must be a good commercial partner, which I wish the guys.

I would advise designers to observe people more, listen to them, analyze what they want to become, how to look, etc. This information itself will push the guys towards a more successful product. People are the most valuable thing.

And what does a person appreciate above all? It is a combination of aesthetics and comfort, which

I could not make out in many models of the show. And, of course, as a logical continuation, this is the choice of fabrics: if you want to sell well and expensively, use good material. There were a couple of images that were very poor only because of the not very well-chosen texture of the fabric. And of course, more fresh ideas! It's time to drive heavy fabrics, floor-length skirts and geometry out of your head - this is already as old as the world. Today's graduates are the future of fashion, and I personally want from them a coup, a revolution, a wave of something new. Therefore, I wish them inspiration and lightness.

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Olga Bolodurina

Fashion CommunicationS alumnus

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Tonya Vorobyova

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Julia Boriskina

About the organization

This show is a direct step forward compared to last year. The music and the playground itself are superb. There was confusion with the seating of the VIP guests - there were more invitees than the seats provided for them. The organizers did a good job, but the crowd in front of the entrance still could not be avoided: the show was delayed due to late guests.

About the best collections

I liked Zalina Verkhovskaya, especially the trousers, and Natasha Vainshtok. These are commercial collections, easy to understand. Things are wearable, that is, they will be sold. I would work with these girls.

About the magic of PR

Good PR can save even not the best collections, let alone successful ones. A competent PR specialist knows who to show the collection to and how best to present it - this is very important! It is always difficult to find a good PR manager, and this requires monetary influences, but that is why we unlearned together to be useful and accessible to each other. We are open to cooperation!

About individuality

There is a lot of futurism in the collections, the designers did not have enough courage to create individual images. The result is academic collections, but this

and no wonder - here you can read the influence of the curators. "British" is this: curators are almost co-authors of collections. My wish is to work more with color, and also not be afraid to work with simple shapes. Being close to your potential buyer is the most important thing.

cover photo: Alisa Donova

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