We recently talked about what vintage is, how it differs from second-hand and how things are with it in Russia, and also listed 10 rules for dealing with vintage now. It is impossible not to notice that over the past two years, a dozen vintage projects of completely different formats have appeared: from online stores to studios, where people come by personal appointment, and show rooms. Many of them took part in the Lambada market specializing in vintage (and not only), which was held at the Tsvetnoy department store over the weekend. We asked several of them about what is happening with vintage in Moscow, why they love things from past eras and how to wear them in 2013.
FOUNDER of So Retro
We try to sell many inexpensive jewelry:
I still don't want to turn the store into a museum
The situation with vintage shops has changed dramatically over the past five years. If before the main store was considered "Freak Frak", now it has more than enough competitors. I really like Alina Lysova's Vintage Voyage. Of course, in comparison with London, there is very little vintage in Moscow. I think this is partly about the buyers. When people come to us, they often want to get a new-looking product without flaws, although wear on vintage jewelry is quite common. We also do not have the proper assortment in stores. I think that in one place there should be both democratic and more expensive things, but in our country they often fixate on either luxury - and vintage becomes unavailable for buyers - or on something very inexpensive. We try to sell a lot of inexpensive jewelry: we still don't want to turn a store into a museum.
About 10-15 years ago, I began to pay attention to the fact that beautiful prints from my mother's dresses and suits have disappeared somewhere. On duty, I often traveled abroad and discovered a vintage there. I started collecting clothes and jewelry, and now collecting has grown into a business: I opened the So Retro jewelry store. At first we had a group on Facebook, now there is an online store and Instagram, and three weeks ago a partner appeared - a girl-designer - and we opened a showroom on Novinsky Boulevard.
I buy jewelry in London, Berlin, Jerusalem, there are suppliers from America, but most often I buy everything myself - it is important to see the thing live here. By the way, an absolutely amazing collection of vintage is in Brussels. You can buy through several sources. For example, there are vintage collectors who send out catalogs from which I select jewelry and then buy them back when we meet. There are also fairs and breakdowns. At a flea market in Berlin, I found five Dior jewelery at very affordable prices in perfect condition. How to distinguish a real designer piece of jewelry from a fake one? Here you should focus on its labeling, and usually the labeling does not lie: this is most often the name of the House and the year of manufacture of the product. I always carry a magnifying glass with me and go through the markings on jewelry. There are also incidents. Elsa Schiaparelli's brooch has recently appeared on sale, and there would have been a queue for it, but there was a mistake in the Elsa Schiaparelli labeling. Remember that often an unnamed item can be much more beautiful than a designer item. Recently, a simple brooch of incredible beauty from my store was presented to Alexander Vasiliev. Hopefully he will wear it on air. Now everyone is hunting for silver from the 1920s, I recently saw a collection of micromosaics from the 1890s, it was bought by a woman from St. Petersburg. Of course, vintage Chanel jewelry is appreciated: they no longer sell for 10 euros, as it was 10 years ago.
Wonderzine would like to thank NAKED Studios for their assistance with the shooting.