DURING THE YEAR, WE REGULARLY TOLD about new notable designers - those whose names appear more and more often in the press. Now it's time to take stock and take a look at all the heroes at once - Central Saint Martins and Parsons alumni, Proenza Schouler trainees and contestants from Fashion East and Hyères to LVMH Prize and ANDAM Awards.
olesya willow
Thomas tait
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Canadian Thomas Tate is one of the most interesting designers of the new generation, working with minimalism and interpretation of sportswear. In 2010, he makes his debut show of the brand at London Fashion Week, where, judging by the exclusive report of the online magazine The Business of Fashion, fashion editors from Vogue, Vanity Fair and ELLE came, feeling great potential. He beat 11 designers this year to win the prestigious LVMH Prize. High hopes are pinned on Thomas today.
Beth richards
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Shameless swimwear now - in the afternoon with fire. Beth Richards, on the other hand, makes modern swimwear in a simple sporty cut with a sound approach not only to design, but also to price. So, the cheapest option can cost € 73, and the most expensive € 190. Who knows, perhaps Beth Richards will become the new American Apparel brand for the foreseeable future.
Nasir Mazhar
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In a short time, Nazir Mazhar made all publications talk about himself - critics are arguing whether the style of Nazir's brand will become as influential as the style of Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Rick Owens. We think so. The logomania that Nazir proposes works for the brand with might and main - young people react to things with Nazir's logos in the same way as they did at Calvin Klein twenty years ago, feeling themselves part of one movement.
Meat
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Friends Beau Claridge and Alice Pelleshi have proven that latex and rubber mini dresses can be served and sold just like ordinary clothing. They've mixed shiny, tight-fitting materials with, yes, the best of internet culture. This formula attracted Nicola Formichetti to Meat: he shot the singer Azilia Banks in one of the brand's first looks for ELLE. After the latex and rubber things Claridge and Pelleshi put on at once Rita Ora, Katy Perry and Lady Gaga.
M2Malletier
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M2Malletier is called a brand that strives to reach the level of accessory classics like Hermès. Which is apparently true. Friends Melissa Losada and Marcela Velez do not produce any clutch-cases made of shiny plastic, but timeless bags of simple architectural forms made of leather in basic colors: scarlet, beige or mint. The factory, which is trusted by the Spaniards of Loewe, is responsible for their production, so there is no doubt about the quality.
Hyon park
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Hyun Park has a keen sense of the latest trends: he creates minimalistic pieces inspired by sports and activewear in pure bright colors. Hyun disassembles the sneakers into pieces, cuts off the soles, and uses welded parts and tongues to make collars or decorate clothes with them. The designer decorates wide trousers and oversized coats with an architectural cut with neon inserts and sporty details that refer to things for sports, while decorating asymmetric dresses and jackets of exaggerated volumes with neon details borrowed from sneakers. His collection borders on sportswear, blurring the line between the gym and the street.
Miuniku
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Sisters Nikita and Tina Sutradhar, promising designers from India, work with color, shape and constructively complex cut, connecting women and men, everyday life and art in clothes. The duality of the sisters is also visible in the Miuniku collections: Tina brings femininity - she loves to emphasize the waist, while Nikita distorts the shape, bringing things to rough shapes, reminiscent of the Balenciaga cut in architecture. The sisters manage to combine minimalism of cut with excessiveness in color and graphic details.
Louise alsop
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Journalists had their eyes on University of Westminster design graduate Louise Alsop right after her first collection in 2013. Critics of American and Italian and Garage magazine liked Alsop's androgynous sports style and black humor: the designer prints prints in the form of nuns and repeated (like satanic laughter) LALALALA initials on his clothes.
Maria Stern
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Maria Stern is only 20 years old. Now she is studying art history at Moscow State University and at the same time is engaged in a personalized jewelry brand, which she founded a year ago. Maria Stern's pearl jewelry was almost immediately noticed by her current clients: Natalia Goldenberg, Ksenia Sobchak, Anna Zyurova, Natalia Alaverdyan, Svetlana Bondarchuk. Thanks to Goldenberg's recommendations on Instagram, Stern's work was seen by a London-based Browns buyer - and things went uphill.
Grace wales bonner
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Grace Wales Bonner is inspired by the work of Phoebe Fileo and the 70s blaxploitation movie genre, which is characterized by stories about tough black guys and their confrontation with the world. Taking the unisex fashion of the 70s as a basis, Grace creates feminine silhouettes for men: flowing bell bottoms, silk shirts, fitted jackets, wide-brimmed hats, beaded trousers, fitted leather coats, waistcoats and cropped jackets. One of the main items in the designer's collection is a cropped tweed jacket reminiscent of the canonical Chanel thing.
Wali mohammed barrech
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Wali Mohammed Barrech is a young Danish designer who creates sustainable and technological items, and also stands for smart consumption and individuality in fashion. Vali mixes outdoor and sporty styles (in particular, interprets raincoats) and gravitates towards unisexuality. The designer works with several companies producing tech and eco-friendly materials. For example, one of them - the German Sympatex - has patented a waterproof membrane material, windproof, breathable and also 100% recyclable, from which Vali sews his collections.
SHLZ
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The founders of the SHLZ brand, Ekaterina and Sergey Shulzhenko, a young couple from St. Petersburg, sew unisex wearable and affordable clothing: denim jackets and skirts with torn edges, jeans, cotton shirts, neoprene bombers.
Yulia Yefimtchuk +
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A young and promising Ukrainian girl Yulia Efimchuk conquered the festival of fashion and photography in Hyères with things with the inscriptions "Labor", "Peace to the world" and "Every day it is more joyful to live". Based on this collection, Efimchuk created her debut perfume. According to the idea of the Ukrainian woman, the aroma should resemble the famous "Red Moscow". The designer's collection has been on sale at Opening Ceremony since autumn: at Hyères-2014, she received a grant from the store, which was personally represented by its creators Carol Lim and Umberto Leon.
Ryan lo
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Ryan Lo, a 25-year-old Hong Kong-born, describes himself as a self-taught designer - he says he learned to create from YouTube tutorials before honing his skills at Charles Anastase's London studio. Ryan Lo clothes can already be bought at the largest online retailer net-a-porter.com, which is a great success for the young brand. However, one should not be surprised - few will remain indifferent, looking at the kawaii Rayn Lo collections with kilometers of ruffles, tons of glitter and total pink of all possible shades.
REVERZ
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Young Russian designer Dasha Revers, who launched a clothing brand in Omsk a year ago, creates things of exaggerated volumes: massive warm coats cut from materials of different textures, quilted bombers, pajama-cut shirts, transparent trousers and jackets, laconic dresses and tops, trousers with an elastic band in the style of the 90s. The designer takes the classic silhouette as a basis, adding sporty details to it.
Phoebe English
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The talented Englishwoman Phoebe English is one of the graduates of the Master's course in Central Saint Martins, where one of her teachers was the legendary Louise Wilson. Phoebe English can be called a textile genius. She loves to combine several fabrics of different textures in one thing and create materials with her own hands, uses the English weaving technique of the 16th century and leaves the edges of things untreated, easily combines transparent organza and decorative knitting, thick linen, thin muslin, worn thick taffeta, mesh and latex.
Andrea Jiapei Li
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Brand founder Andrea Jiapei Li, a graduate of the Parsons master's course, was recently shortlisted for the 2015 H&M Design Award for young designers. In addition, this year, Andrea's collection opened the Parsons MFA alumni show at New York Fashion Week and was featured in reviews Style.com. The designer showed eight bows with deliberately voluminous things, made mainly of neoprene and mesh.