bra set this and that is expensive and requires considerable investments - not only financial, but also physical and moral. Sex blogger Tatyana Nikonova found out how not to go broke and not go crazy when choosing suitable items of underwear. To begin with, she incognito visited a specialist in the selection of bras Alina Gizatullina, and then turned to the oncologist-mammologist of the Endocrinological Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences Elena Abdullaeva and engineer Denis Krivtsov for comments.
Understand why you need a bra
A properly selected bra holds the breast in place, preventing it from being unpleasant, and for some painful, to dangle during active movements, helps to maintain posture and visually slims it. Thanks to him, the presence of a waist is also indicated, he changes the shape of the chest to the desired one, shapes the upper part of the torso for the chosen clothes and pleases those who please. There are no other functions for a bra, and it is worth wearing it if any of them are important to you. At the same time, a bra will not help a young girl look more mature (especially if she does not have money for something expensive and luxurious), does not create a more respectable image for the wearer (those who blame for the lack of a bra will find something to dig deeper into), is not an obligatory subject clothing and even more so does not affect health in a positive way.
Don't wear it if you don't need to
A poorly fitting bra is painful and uncomfortable. Pressing underwear interferes with the outflow of lymph and blood, the chest swells, and if a woman has cyclical pain and breast engorgement before her period, the sensations become even worse. It is unpleasant for some women to wear any "fittings", even those selected according to all the rules, the arguments "but it is so beautiful and decent" justly do not work for them.
Sexologists who insist that sexy lingerie is "packaging for a product" would be tempted to wear a push-up for the scrotum. Those who require others to wear bras, because the nipples are otherwise noticeable, are clearly not aware that fashionable bralettes made of fabric in one layer also do not hide anything, and you can always not look at the outlines of other people's nipples from under the clothes. After all, nipple covers are on sale now, a bra is certainly not required.
Reconsider your attitude towards materials
Material requirements for bras include hygroscopicity, breathability, ability to hold shape, elasticity but not stretch, and endurance under stress. So from 100% cotton or cashmere they make mostly symbolic "triangles" for small breasts, everything else requires at least the inclusion of synthetic fibers in the right places. Modern synthetics sometimes cope with all the requirements better than any natural product, but, unfortunately, when trying on, you cannot determine whether everything will start to sweat and get irritated after a couple of hours of wearing, you have to google reviews for each specific brand of underwear.
For example, silk is an excellent material, it perfectly wicks away moisture, it is not hot or cold in it, but silk charmeuse is often used only for the facade, and inside the cup they are duplicated with inexpensive synthetics, and such models are not suitable for daily wear. On the other hand, from just the word "polyester" everything starts to itch, but in fact it is the name of a whole group of fibers, from which materials with very different qualities are made. So the indication of the composition on the label is not very informative.
Find your shape
A frequent complaint of shoppers who are generously gifted between the neck and the navel, who cannot find something elegant for themselves: "There is solid foam in the stores!" Lingerie stores do buy many models that visually enlarge breasts, but often a thick thick cup is needed not to turn into a sex diva, but to support large breasts.Let me remind you: so that there is no pressure on the shoulders, the bra must hold the chest in place, even with the straps off. Without a tightly formed cup with good support from below, this is impossible, there are two options.
Thin cups made of many parts hold the structure with tight stitching at the joints. They are laborious in production, create a rigidly defined breast shape, are often found in expensive brands and are abundantly decorated - all the same, the seams under the T-shirt are noticeable, no one wears them under the T-shirts, and you can sew more lace. The second option is the so-called molded: a soft, seamless cup with a thick wall (the same "terrible foam rubber"). It supports the breasts and creates a fairly natural shape. In the West, these are the ones preferred for daily wear. In Russia, women are more likely to buy heavily decorated underwear with a rigid shape.
Focus on your belt
The belt (lower horizontal bar) of the bra must fit exactly horizontally and so tightly that only two fingers fit between it and the body. Then the belt takes on the main load, and the straps only fix the cups in place and do not put pressure on the shoulders. Otherwise, you will experience a feeling of tightness in the neck and shoulders, chafing and even headaches. Another method of checking the correct fit is to lower or unfasten the straps and jump. The cups of a properly fitted bra will remain in place and will continue to hold the breast in the same way.
Buy a bra with multiple rows of closures, and when trying on in the store, fasten on the belt that provides the maximum length. The belt will stretch a little as you wear it, so start using hooks and loops for a tighter grip and thus maintain a snug fit. At the same time, when trying on, even the loosest option should sit as tight as possible: strictly horizontally, allow a maximum of two fingers to be inserted under it. And the more your or your chest weight, the wider choose a bra belt - it will cut less into the body.
Calculate your volume
Women often try to squeeze into a smaller than necessary size of panties or bra cups, but the length of the bra belt is taken longer than necessary. This happens both due to ignorance of the principles of selection, and due to the opaque dimensional grid of manufacturers. Why is 70 C from one manufacturer equal to 32 C for another and 85 C for a third, and what does this mean for a particular woman? Intuitively, it seems that 70 is the girth of the chest in centimeters (aka the length of the belt).
In fact, it is correct to measure like this: take a measuring tape, stand up straight, measure the circumference of the chest so that the tape is located just under the chest, tight, but not tight, and strictly horizontal. Round off the determined figures to half a dozen - and then subtract 15 cm from the measurement result if you rounded up, and 10 if you round down. The resulting number will be the size: that is, the European size 70 C is the size of a woman with a cup C and a girth under the bust of 85 cm.At the same time, the same size on the French scale will be 85 C, since it indicates the real girth of the chest in centimeters. 32 С - the size according to the own scale of the USA and Great Britain.
Thus, you will determine your base size for the bra belt, and you will find the exact one by re-measuring several adjacent sizes. Take several sconces with you to the fitting room at once, since such complex three-dimensional objects as a person can hardly fit into simple dimensions, and each brand has its own small differences in patterns. Unfortunately, even large retailers have small discrepancies - for example, ASOS suggests that the European 70 B equals the British 32 A, and Marlies Dekkers - that 32 B. Therefore, everything is difficult without fitting.
Stop being shy
From stylists you can sometimes hear "choose a bra by the size so that it does not dig into the body, and the fat rolls do not stick out from below."This is not very professional advice. The soft tissues of the body are not squeezed by the belt of the bra only if there are few of these tissues - that is, if you are extremely slim. Owners of any other body size also have the right to a comfortable bra, but because of such advice, on the street in the summer there are crowds of women who can see through their clothes how the bra belt on their back is lifted up.
Check: if you feel constant pressure from the straps on your shoulders, and you want to adjust the belt on your back and pull it down under the shoulder blades, it's time to change the bra. If the protruding cushions under the bra still bother you, buy the so-called longline bra - with a very wide belt that can end at the lower ribs, they smooth the picture.
Remember how the cups should sit
The selection of a bra cup is complicated by the idea deeply ingrained in our minds about the existence of breasts of the first, second and so on sizes, which are actually invented by men and estimated by eye - there is even a version that the numbered sizes are explained by the degree of filling the female breast of the man's palm. Meanwhile, women's breasts can have different shapes, heights, fullness from below and from above, base width and other indicators, and men's palms, in fact, are also all of different sizes.
A correctly selected cup (that is, sitting comfortably, allowing you to breathe freely and performing its supportive and aesthetic functions) fits snugly enough, raises the breast higher to move the center of gravity, along the upper edge is in the same plane with the mammary gland (it does not sink in and does not stick out top with a roller), and the lower edge of the cup (where the bone is inserted or tight stitching with filler is made to maintain its shape) fits exactly along the submammary fold. The submammary fold is the line along the underside of the breast, which clearly separates the torso and the mammary gland. Slide your finger under your bust (you can wear it, but no bra), and the connection line is easily identified.
One of the signs that the size of the cup is too small is the bulging parts of the chest. A woman may think that her breasts are widely spaced, but in fact, it is often enough to take a larger cup. Another sign of a poorly fitting bra is that the breasts hang over the submammary fold. Such a bra does not shift the center of gravity and does not hold the chest, so there is no point in wearing it.
These are the most important criteria for cup fit. Therefore, even if the label indicates some inappropriate, as it seems to you, dimensions, but at the same time it sits like a glove, take it. The main principle of bra planting: the belt should be strictly horizontal on the torso, the cup should fully support the mammary gland, and the seam or bone that connects them should pass along the submammary fold, which does not hide under the mammary gland when wearing a bra.
Find your cup size
The base size of the bra cup (that is, the one with which you can go to the fitting room and decide with it, you need something bigger or smaller) is also determined by a whole system of measurements. Stand straight and measure your chest at the most protruding point, without tightening the measuring tape and keeping it on your back strictly horizontal. Then bend at the waist at a right angle and measure again - only now the measuring tape is located strictly vertically. Add the resulting measurements and divide by two - this will be the average, which we will use in the calculations. The cup size is determined by the difference in centimeters between the girth under the bust and the derived average bust.
If you are looking for a model whose dimensions are indicated in the US-British grid, it is more difficult - you have to adjust the underbust girth. Take a separate inch measuring tape or flip the centimeter tape to the other side if there is an inch line on the other side.Measure under bust - snug, not tight, horizontally. If the resulting number of inches is even, add 4. If it is odd, add 5. If the measurement is 33 inches or more, add only 3. Subtract the resulting number from the average chest circumference in inches, each additional inch gives +1 to the cup size …
Please note that after size D, the cup size markings are different in different systems, and the step size between the sizes may vary. Therefore, if it is uncomfortable when trying on in a precisely calculated size, feel free to take another one, with less familiar indicators, but a more successful fit.
Understand the straps
If you have large breasts, look for wider straps - they better fix the breasts in place. Tighten the straps as much as possible so that they do not slide out, but not painfully. By the way, a common problem with straps falling off is due to the fact that they carry too much load. If the main load falls on the belt, the straps stop slipping off the shoulders. Another way to check if the bra is sitting correctly: stand up straight, lower your shoulders, bring your shoulder blades a little, take a couple of slow deep breaths and exhalations. If you feel more comfortable this way than slouched over or leaning forward, breathing is free and the shoulder straps do not strive to slide, then everything is fine.
Take a closer look at yourself
Not everyone notices this, but many women have mammary glands of different sizes. The difference can be very pronounced, sometimes subtle, and opinions about which breast is more often caught - left or right - differ. Asymmetry occurs congenital or acquired - for example, after pregnancy or injury. In any case, this is a variant of the norm, which is widespread, and if it does not cause you any inconvenience, it does not need correction. But the cups of the bra are always the same size.
When trying on, be guided by the size of the larger breast, and compensate for the smaller one with a special tab in the cup. The tabs are sold in sewing and handicraft stores, and some bras even have pockets inside the cups.
This works if the size difference is significant, but if it is small, just pull up the strap on the side of the strap a little. Complete symmetry of the body is rare, so straps of different lengths are not a problem, the main thing is that you feel comfortable. But if you have severe scoliosis, which is being observed by a doctor, check with your doctor if prolonging the situation will worsen. You may be advised to wear a strapless bra.
Don't wear one bra forever
When worn more or less regularly, the bra belt stretches and ceases to cope with its functions in about a year. Experienced bra fitters recommend retiring the bra at the end of this period. By the way, an uncomplicated way of determining how much you can spend on lingerie appears immediately - and we know what the prices for "top" are. Just set an annual budget for yourself and divide by the number of sconces you need: this will give you the average cost of the item and can plan your expenses more carefully. If you are gaining or losing weight, you should check (and most likely change) your bra every 3–5 kg.
Choose a sports bra
just as carefully
For sports and other active activities, especially high-quality support is required. With large breasts, sports stores of popular brands are practically useless - in sizes L and larger, the belt is too loose for a sports top, and the chest is flattened so that it is impossible to breathe in it. I personally went to the sports shops in a large shopping center in Moscow and tried on a dozen sports bras of different models - for the size 75 F there was not a single one that was at least suitable.
In this case, a tax on a woman's life is the need to spend time and money looking for a suitable model in the lines of brands that understand big breasts (for example, Freya, Panache, Shock Absorber, less often approved by Marks & Spenser). An effective sports bra is called encapsulated and looks like a top on the outside and looks like a regular bra on the inside. That is, inside it has formed cups, and outside they are pressed by a sports top. Select cups according to their size, and the degree of retention by the top - depending on the intended activity, the information is indicated on the label.
Photos: PRAE, Pansy, Undone, Lonely