IN THE RUBRIC "NEW BRAND" Wonderzine introduces young designers and tells you where and how you can buy their clothes. Our heroes this week are Svetlana Gruzdova, Nikolai Afonchenko and Denis Makarov, creators and ideologists of the More brand.
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All young brands have a difficult time. Even those who start their own business in Moscow or St. Petersburg, where, it would seem, there are more opportunities, are faced with problems in production, the inability to place a small order of materials and establish communication with distributors. What can we say about young designers in the regions - people there are accustomed to lower prices and are wary of everything new. In general, at the initial stage there are so many difficulties that many leave the idea of starting their own business, not having time to really start. But there are several opposite examples, which, I would like to believe, have a great future, and our today's brand is one of them.
More is a Vladivostok-based casual wear brand founded in 2015 by three friends: Svetlana Gruzdova, Nikolai Afonchenko and Denis Makarov. They make laconic, very modern clothes for every day, inspired by the atmosphere and the place in which they work and live. They grew up in a seaside town, where everything is connected with the sea, so it didn't take long to think about the name of the brand.
Before working on The Sea, Sveta created bespoke clothes at the Attic Forever studio in Vladivostok, where she gained experience as a designer, constructor and technologist at the same time; in parallel with this, she constantly communicated with the people who work there - real professionals in their field - and clients who themselves were well versed in tailoring and the quality of things. After that, the girl made a collection under her own name, arranged small shows and developed a client base. Kolya worked for many years in the iconic Vladivostok textile store.
After collaborating on several joint projects, the guys decided that they were ready to launch their own brand: “What it will be, we were told by everything that we love and appreciate: what aesthetics we like, who are the people in our clothes. Our dressing habits are similar, as are our tastes in music and cinema. We evaluate things in a very similar way, we are friends and kindred people. " Sveta notes: “If the team has formed, then everything will work out - that's a fact. After all, a good and well-coordinated team is what moves and develops an idea, fills it with meaning and mood."
All "More" items are sewn in Vladivostok: development and most of the production process take place in a small studio, which now employs six people. “We are glad that both people with experience in the atelier and 'put hands' have joined us, as well as graduate trainees who are just starting their way, who are very quickly involved in the process of creating clothes at all its stages. The guys order fabrics and accessories from Japan or China, but they do not ignore Russian manufacturers either. For example, real kondovy textiles from the naval arsenal have found their application in the attributes that "More" creates for the international film festival in Vladivostok.
Regarding the pricing policy, the creators of the brand say that it is important for them to create high-quality clothes, "More" is not fast fashion or luxury. The price for brand items cannot be low, but it should not be high either. So, the cost of T-shirts starts from 2 thousand rubles, they ask for 8 thousand rubles for a skirt, but a raincoat or parka will cost no more than 17,500 rubles. Best of all, the guys succeeded in tracksuits similar to those worn in the 80s, long trench coats with neat graphic accents, laconic shorts, trousers and dresses - with a perfect fit and interesting details, such as a sewn-on belt with a contrasting stripe.Everything is made of light fabrics that are pleasant to the body. The colors correspond to the brand's concept - white, blue, black with occasional splashes of turquoise and yellow.
While the brand's things are not presented in the offline store, the model you like can be ordered by writing to the guys directly. And if you are in Moscow, you should try your luck at the upcoming Lambada, which will take place on August 14 at the Strelka Institute for Media, Architecture and Design. "More" will participate in it for the second time.
Each stage of the brand's development has its own difficulties: delivery and purchase of fabrics, development and gradation of patterns, production possibilities, post-production, presentation and sale. The main thing is that no one can say how to do it all correctly, so you just have to immerse yourself in the process and establish all its components.
In our practice, there were many different difficulties: rejects and alterations at the factory, fabrics delivered in the wrong colors. But the most exciting, interesting and difficult thing is to find and establish productive interaction with each member of the process, be it a cutter, artist or photographer. All this is done by people, and their competence is the most valuable thing in this matter. Clothing making is perhaps one of the most energy-intensive areas, where people and the human factor play a major role at every stage.