WE TELL ABOUT TRENDS FROM THE PODIUM, which you can adapt to your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how leopard print became the main trend of pre-fall collections, lost all connotations with bad taste and is ready to easily fit into a modern wardrobe.
How it all started
Perhaps you would never want to know this, but in the period from the early 20s to the 60s of the last century, fur coats, hats and other accessories with a leopard print were not a skillful imitation - the designers of that time quite used real skins for themselves. … Today, it is impossible to imagine that the first lady could wear wild animal fur. But in 1961, iconic Russian-born Hollywood designer Oleg Cassini designed a leopard-skin coat for Jacqueline Kennedy. And this only caused delight - women tried to copy her images, which almost resulted in an ecological disaster. Leopard print can be seen on all the divas of that time: from Audrey Hepburn and her hat in the movie "Charade" to singer and actress Carmen Miranda and her stage costumes and, of course, Marilyn Monroe.
The first signs of social responsibility consisted in the refusal to wear fur of rare species - and the development of technology gradually made it possible to switch to artificial fur, which became more and more pleasant to look and feel. Thanks to this, the exotic print on outerwear is associated in 2016 exclusively with artificial fur, and a thing made from real skin of a wild and rare animal can only be found at antique dealers or in rare vintage stores. But even with moral dilemmas aside, it is extremely difficult to care for and preserve such items.
Leopard print has become so common that it has become a whole topic for research. Joe Weldon, a writer and author of a book on burlesque, has come to the conclusion that people have worn animal prints for centuries, both to create eccentric, deliberately luxurious and impractical images, and to demonstrate power and strength - for which the cliche of cavemen should be thanked. wrapped in skins. Such a drawing has other connotations - defiant sensuality and sexuality on the verge (or beyond) promiscuity. You can remember how the costume designers of The Graduate used it to create the image of the seductress Mrs. Robinson (by the way, this role tarnished the reputation of the print for several years).
However, this did not prevent aggressive stripes and stains from returning to fashion every five years, and in the 90s the print became part of the DNA of some brands like Roberto Cavalli, Alaïa or Dolce & Gabbana, appealing to underlined conventional sexuality and liberation. But besides them, other designers regularly remember the leopard print, showing it on the catwalk: from Burberry to Michael Kors, from Gucci to Acne Studios. The last loud obsession with the pattern could be seen in the 2000s - as an element of a luxurious and redundant style that does not know half measures.
How leopard print is back in fashion
For a century, the leopard print was thrown from one extreme to another: from haute couture and aristocracy to associations with the nouveau riche and vulgarity. The massive return of the leopard print is coming right now: its abundance in pre-autumn and fall-winter collections is a sign of fatigue from the dominance of minimalism. A coat with a leopard print - both lightweight, which can be worn even on a cool summer day, and warm, solid - can become an appropriate purchase right now.
In the lookbook of the Stella McCartney collection, the leopard print is at the heart of the basics. The theme is supported by live cats participating in the shooting on an equal footing with the models. Using the brand as an example, it is worth trying to combine leopard print with other trendy things that designers have been showing for several seasons in a row, including sweatshirts, cropped flared trousers, and silk pajama shorts.
Rochas rely on elements of the traditional "girlish" style: the leopard print on midi skirts and oversized jackets fit in with pointed shoes and neat bows. This collection provides a positive answer to the question that Forbes magazine once asked: "Can I wear a leopard print to work?"
If there is no dress code in your life at all, you can use the combinations peeped from Alexander Wang. With a leopard print, there is still the same coat, but with it belt bags and bombers. Outerwear with a distinctive pattern has also been produced by Sonia Rykiel and Maison Margiela.
What to wear with
Despite the fact that by 2016 the leopard print has lost some bad associations, it is still better to handle it more carefully. If you are not ready to go all-in and dress up in a "leopard" from head to toe (although why not), choose small accessories: a panama hat, a belt bag, socks, backpacks. And on the beach - a swimsuit of an unusual color or a chic towel.
All trendy things with a leopard print, like shoes with steady heels, bombers, pajamas, culottes, do not require complex styling and will not cause rejection. Combining them with other prints is difficult, but with monochrome simple things - that's it.
Watch out for hypersexual items: fishnets, high heels, corsets, and other signs of the dashing 2000s. If the fashion for Juicy Couture velor suits returns in a modified form, this does not mean that you should find your old one, which you last wore at school, in the closet. The same is with the leopard print: the original Roberto Cavalli blouses are best left until they can be considered "vintage". There are only fifteen years left.
Photos: Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein, Universal Pictures