Power Dressing: What Is The Problem With The Dress Code Of The "strong Woman"

Style 2022
Power Dressing: What Is The Problem With The Dress Code Of The "strong Woman"
Power Dressing: What Is The Problem With The Dress Code Of The "strong Woman"

Video: Power Dressing: What Is The Problem With The Dress Code Of The "strong Woman"

Video: POWER DRESSING by Professor Rica Funtecha for FCU-CHTM students 2022, December
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Dasha Knyazeva

Last week, even those far from the fashion world people discussed the article Business of Fashion about "image wars" in politics: referring to an anonymous source, the publication reported that the editor-in-chief of American Vogue Anna Wintour took up Hillary Clinton's style. Openly supporting the Democratic Party, Wintour is still unlikely to go to showrooms herself and every morning to collect onions for her ward, even for a US presidential candidate. Most likely, her responsibilities include some general recommendations and specific consultations before the most important events.

But this should not be underestimated: if Hillary wins and becomes the first woman president of the United States, this will be the merit of the editor-in-chief of Vogue. Why? During the election race, special attention has been riveted on her - future voters pay attention not only to statements about economic reforms, but also to how she moves, how she eats and, of course, how she dresses. The president is elected, among other things, according to how he looks - and I must admit, in our world, especially if it is her.

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Power dressing sought to eliminate any hint of femininity that, following the cliche, was associated with softness.

and weakness

The forgotten concept of power dressing, that is, the manner of dressing that emphasizes such traits as strength, determination and imperiousness, has not been in fashion criticism for a long time. But Clinton's current political campaign with all his looks says it's time to remember him. Power dressing (let's agree that there is no adequate Russian-language term for this - for a number of reasons) originated in the West in the late 70s and early 80s. That is, at a time when it was especially important for women to prove their competence in politics and business, spheres traditionally occupied by men. Pencil skirts, wide leg pants and, of course, oversized jackets with shoulder pads are all about power dressing. Austere lines, silhouettes borrowed from men's wardrobe, all shades of gray, tartan, suit stripe - everything to make women take seriously.

Power dressing sought to eliminate any hint of femininity that, following the cliche, was associated with softness and weakness. Even a blouse in a romantic style was invented to be worn with a tie. The heroine Joan Harris from "Mad Men" has repeatedly been harassed and insulted on the basis of gender, but in the end remained with her - pumps and colored sheath dresses. But if the action of the series ended not in 1970, but a decade later, the creators of the series would certainly have forced her to change into something "more masculine."

The roots of power dressing go back to the 20s, and the woman who played an important role in its formation (and not only in it) is Gabrielle Chanel. Her two-piece of a narrow midi skirt and a jacket without a collar is actually the first "business suit for women." It included masculine elements, while being unusually comfortable for that time, since it did not restrict movement, like the rest of the clothes. The novelty, the uniqueness of the suit was that it was deliberately designed for the rapidly changing lifestyle of women. After the First World War, they slowly but surely began to enter "male" positions and were forced to prove their right not only to equal duties, but also to equal trust and respect.

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It is not surprising that women politicians have become the main persons of power dressing - that is, women in the most "serious" positions in the world, from Margaret Thatcher to Angela Merkel. But behind them were millions of equally strong-willed women who chose a career. The style has gone to the masses - you should look at least at fashionable shooting of the yuppie era, at least at TV shows like "Dallas" and "Dynasty", at least at modern shows about "strong women" - "The Good Wife" or "House of Cards".The classic women's business suit has not undergone too much changes: the strict line of the shoulders has gone, a wide variety of models of trousers have come into fashion. Tights remained unchanged elements of the corporate dress code - at any time of the year - and heels, symbolizing severity and composure. But women are trying to fight against this too. There is a reason.

Actually, the heroine of “House of Cards” Claire Underwood is in a sense keeping pace with Hillary Clinton: she is just as cramped in the role of the first lady and she also has no doubts that she deserves the presidency. Played Claire Robin Wright showed what a business style icon can be in 2016, or rather, what it should be. "She makes a salad at home at eleven o'clock in the evening in stiletto heels and a tailored suit - DOES THIS GIVE ANY SENSE?" - The Telegraph journalist asks, puzzled. I would like to answer - no, but in fact, the show's dressers create with the help of sheath dresses and jackets the image of a woman who does not relax even behind the closed doors of her house. To some extent, TV shows not only state, but also encourage the dress code; they broadcast the thought: "The ideal woman applying for a serious position looks like this." But is it necessary to stand firmly on your heels in order to rule the state?

Today women should not worry and think before work: is the length of my skirt optimal, is my shirt too bright, or will my shoes press during a meeting. At a time when the concept of a dress code is blurring, everywhere, except for giant conservative companies that are hard to perceive any changes, a person's performance should not be in any way related to his appearance. Yes, style can be a powerful tool - but you don't have to wear a two-piece suit for others to believe in you. Only if you like it yourself.

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"Powerful style" is needed today by those who have to prove their right

for a "male" position

So it turns out that the only ones who really need to adopt the power dressing style today are those who have to prove that they deserve this position no less than men. For example, Claire Underwood and Hillary Clinton. Being discreet, elegant, relying on classics - this is how the first ladies of the United States have always been. They had to embody the sleekness and maintain the image of the ideal wife: jewelry and props. And even Hillary Clinton, who was predicted a successful political career even before her marriage (it is worth remembering that the Clintons went to the 1992 elections under the slogan "Two for the price of one"), during the reign of her husband did not particularly stand out among a number of other wives of American presidents. Do you remember what she looked like in the 90s?

Actors, athletes, pop stars, politicians - every public person has its own stylist, but the political arena in this regard is associated with a specific set of tasks. And given that a woman now has a serious chance to become the president of the United States for the first time, there are even more of them. Hillary Clinton should embody openness and confidence, but not wear prohibitively expensive things (like her $ 12,000 Armani jacket, which became a meme), be strict, but not old-fashioned; and also - dress for the occasion and take into account the tasks set. In fact, the woman again has to think too much about the choice of clothes, while the male politicians - only about the color of the tie. Clothing continues to be a "statement": during the speech at the national convention of the Democratic Party at Hillary Clinton was a white suit - her message was immediately considered by the press as a reference to the outfits of the first suffragettes who fought for equality.

Hillary's constants are bright trouser suits, rich colors, materials that keep their shape well: lively, memorable, but moderately conservative. A step forward, but very, very thoughtful. And future elections are not only a possible victory for one independent woman who has been walking towards this for forty years. This is also proof that a woman still needs to think about how her style and jacket color will affect voters.And when we do not have to play in this field - perhaps this will be the power dressing of the future.

Photos: Hillary Clinton / Facebook, Chanel, Netflix

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