WE TELL ABOUT TRENDS FROM THE PODIUM, which you can adapt to your wardrobe for the next six months. The "plush" Juicy Couture costume, one of the main ghosts of the 2000s, which by 2016 had become (literally) a museum piece, has officially returned to fashion. And although the easiest way would be to say that Demna Gvasalia is again to blame, who practically opened the last couture fashion week with a modernized version of a plush suit, this is not entirely true.
How it all began
Before Kim Kardashian met Kanye West, fell in love with beige and appeared on the cover of Vogue - although now it's almost impossible to imagine that once everything was different - the world was completely different. Not that this meeting was a turning point for everyone, but it is in Kim's example that the contrast between zero and ten is most clearly visible.
The main character of the last decade, Paris Hilton, has not changed at all since then and has not changed the golden glamor for a second. Jessica Simpson and Nicole Richie took up the family, disappeared from sight and appear in public quite rarely. Well, Madonna, with whom the fashion for Juicy Couture suits once began, has changed images so often during her career that it is easier to get confused than to understand them. So the most famous of the Kardashian sisters, who in the 2000s started not only as a reality star, but also as an assistant to Paris Hilton (how this union ended, you can guess from the game "Kim Kardashian: Hollywood" - Hilton became the prototype of the main villain she hates with all her heart everyone who downloaded the application) is a much more telling example.
Kim loved mini dresses and bustier dresses, pulled at the waist with wide belts, jeans tucked into black boots, everything shiny and shiny - and, of course, plush suits. By her own admission, she loved them so much that she collected them in all colors: from classic poisonous pink to pale light green. Now the passion returns only when the former Juicy fan wants to laugh at herself: what yesterday was considered practically the uniform of a successful (that is, beautiful, wealthy and popular) girl, today it has become embarrassing to sincerely love. Although judging by what is happening, the famous costume still has time to take its own, albeit in a completely different capacity.
Juicy Couture, one of the main symbols of the 2000s, was founded in the 90s, but released its super hit in 2001. And although jeans and T-shirts of the brand enjoyed success before the advent of the velor monster, only with him the story became so massive. They say that the first wave of their resounding success, the founders of Juicy Pamela Skeist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor owe Madonna: she was made a special customized costume with the signature "Madge" on her jacket and other stars wanted to follow the example of the singer. And when pictures of celebrities, massively dressed in the same costumes, began to appear on the covers and pages of the tabloids, their fans no longer had a chance to resist the beginning epidemic.
Many stars had “signature” Juicy Couture: and if Cameron Diaz, for example, signed her costume simply as “Cameron”, then Jennifer Aniston asked to write “Mrs Pitt” on her jacket - this is another unexpected ghost of the 2000s. But the most devoted fan of the brand in this sense was not even Paris Hilton, as one might well expect, but Britney Spears. When she married Kevin Federline, she dressed all the guests of the wedding party in customized Juicy Couture suits: girls - with the signature "The Maids", men - "Pimp Daddy".
In 2003, when Nash-Taylor and Skyst-Levy sold the brand to Fifth & Pacific Companies, Inc., the New York Times marveled at how the founders of the brand grew in just six years from a “$ 200 startup” to a “$ 51 million concern. ". By that time, the costumes were already worn by everyone - and everywhere.In the cinema, too, let's not go far for examples - take at least the main movie guide to the style of the 2000s, Mean Girls.
It's hard to say when exactly the aura of classiness around velor suits dissipated, and Juicy Couture ceased to be a relevant brand - all this happened gradually, but by the end of the 2000s the process was over. Fifth & Pacific Companies have not done well in their mission to lead the company on a new path to new heights. Their fall 2010 collection was so unsuccessful that several large retailers, from Bergdorf Goodman to Saks Fifth Avenue, decided not to purchase it at once.
In 2013, the company was sold again - this time to Authentic Brands Group. And a year later, news broke in the press that Juicy Couture was closing all of its American stores. The international ones remained, but in America the brand's things were from now on to hang only in Kohl's. One of this news could have already caused a bout of nostalgia among the former followers of radical glamor, but another soon followed - the plush suit officially became a museum piece, getting into the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. And it seemed to be the official recognition that the Juicy era was over.
How plush costumes are back in fashion
One of the first things that anyone visiting Juicy Couture sees today is the radiant #trackisback hashtag ad. The return of the plush stars is the main event of the year for the Los Angeles brand. The entire latest Juicy advertising campaign is dedicated to them alone. The brand is celebrating its coming of age: in 2016 it turns 21, so there are exactly 21 girls in the campaign - and everyone is talking about their first sportswear. And at the beginning of summer, even before this story and before the main wave of noise, Juicy Couture announced that together with Bloomingdale’s they were re-releasing their suits in a special capsule in four colors, from which it all began.
Another gift to ourselves and to our loyal fans was, of course, the collaboration with Demna Gvasalia. When, shortly before the show of the spring-summer collection - 2017, the Vetements team announced that it would do the show with 16 more brands, it already had a wow effect. But when Juicy Couture appeared on the list of collaborators, hundreds of people around the world were sure to rejoice. Not only due to the fact that in some five years that have passed since the official end of the 2000s, they managed to miss an old friend. The pink and cheerful legend of the last decade does not mix well with the Vetements style in its original form. As a result, Demna Gvasalia and his team radically redesigned the famous costume, turning it into a kind of diving or circus costume: this is a tight and completely closed tights, even the hands are tightened with red velor gloves.
But you shouldn't think that it was Gvasalia who gave the ticket to the new life of Juicy Couture - although it would be quite pleasant to think so. Firstly, the designer brought the very idea of this collaboration from Moscow, or rather from KM20 - on his last visit to Russia, he bought velor pants from the spring collection of Tigran Avetisyan in a Moscow concept store. He liked them so much that, as they say, they became one of the sources of inspiration for the new collaboration. So it was Avetisyan who, in some way, guessed the potential in the suit, which the girls have been hiding in the far corner of the wardrobe for a long time. Ashish Gupta, who also had plush costumes at the shows, and according to all the rules of the 2000s, also embroidered with sequins, in this case does not count - he still exists in his own world, separate from the general world, where, regardless of the circumstances, an eternal party reigns.
But the works of Tigran Avetisyan, on the contrary, are always tightly tied to what is happening in the industry now: each of his collections becomes an angry (sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less) commentary on the most pressing issues. About the spring-summer collection of 2016, named Best Hits, Tigran himself says: "I am fascinated by how what was considered" cool "falls out of fashion after a few seasons and is forgotten."And he adds, explaining that the collection is dedicated to brands that are no longer relevant - those who "fell out". Perhaps, if we expand the topic, not only brands, but also ideas, ideals of beauty and even people.
At least, such a conclusion can be drawn after the video "The Photoshoot" dedicated to the collection. The starring role is a poisonous pink velor suit, also a modernized version of the famous Juicy suit, not a literal copy of it. The pants here are wide and do not fit, but, on the contrary, hang in a bag, instead of a short sweatshirt in sequins, there is a sweatshirt. Under the suit, in the frame, bumps swell and fall, forming either luxurious curves, or humps and bumps that look like eerie tumors. The fabric is stretching, the suit is bursting at the seams.
Secondly, the aesthetics of the 2000s, which returns to mass fashion only by individual elements, has long been the basis of the visual language of a new generation of feminists like Arvida Biström and Mayan Toledano. An abundance of pink, false nails, thongs sticking out above the belt of trousers, plush pants stretched so that a camel toe is formed, which they like to look for stars in outfits and make fun of tabloids - all this becomes important codes for them through which they talk about physicality and the new understanding the concept of "femininity". To be convinced of this, it is enough to watch at least last year's video aerobics lesson Bistrom with a selfie stick. Of course, these images should be interpreted in a completely different way than in the 2000s that gave rise to them: femininity taken to the extreme, radical tenderness and self-love become a way of empowerment. And the good old plush suit turns out to be a very important player here.
Thirdly, finally, it is quite obvious that we live in a world built on a mixture of “high” and “low”. It is on the contrasts that stylists of the main modern pop icons play. So the style of the trashionsta of the 2000s fits perfectly harmoniously into the stylistic redundancy of our years.
What to wear with
How to adapt the returned plush suit to modern realities is a question that can be answered indefinitely and in detail. Since the "modernized" designer versions of Juicy suits are mainly referred to the original only by the material, they can be worn as easily as regular jeans. That is, with everything without exception - from a white T-shirt and leather jacket to a sports crop top and a voluminous knitted cardigan.
At the same time, you can still get the pink miracle bought ten years ago from the far shelf without any hesitation and use it in exactly the same way as then. That is, with ugg boots or flip-flops, a T-shirt in rhinestones, fake curls cleverly glued to a whitewashed real one, a Starbucks glass, large sunglasses and a logo bag. It is unlikely that someone will decide that you are serious - the irony of such a "total look" of the times of heavy glamor is read instantly simply because the very ideology of those years is categorically inconsistent with modern realities.
To look expensive and rich in any circumstances, to emphasize your status with all your might, to hunt a rich husband in order to acquire this status - all these are also ghosts of the past, to speak aloud and with a serious look about which has long been embarrassing. So, without a proper share of self-irony, it is almost impossible to play Paris Hilton today. Although trying on this role for yourself at least for a day is certainly very fun - this image awakens in the blood and unrestrained fervor of the 2000s, which certainly cannot be taken away from the past decade, but in the new, as they say, it is just not enough.
Photos: Juicy Couture / Facebook, Juicy Couture, КМ20