New Yeezy Collection: Why Kanye West And Us Need It All

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New Yeezy Collection: Why Kanye West And Us Need It All
New Yeezy Collection: Why Kanye West And Us Need It All

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Video: WTF Was Yeezy Thinking!? Kanye West Following Everyone?! New Off-White Sneakers Look INSANE! 2022, December
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September 7th at exactly 1:30 p.m. New York time bewildered fashion editors and buyers were loaded onto a 26th Street bus and driven to Franklin D. Roosevelt's Four Freedoms Park. It is not known what happened to those who were a little late for the bus, but everyone else ended up at the Yeezy Season 4. More precisely, near the podium, next to which there were already models in beige tights. And then the expectation began. It lasted almost an hour and a half under the scorching sun: the girls-models became ill, some of them could not stand it and sat right on the grass, the impatient editors left before the show began.

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When the show did start, it became clear that it would have been better not to start: models could hardly move after several hours in the sun, the heels of Yeezy boots broke, and guests had to support the girls so that they did not fall. For the rest, West showed all the same leotards, leggings with a bodysuit and military jackets. The fashion press almost unanimously acknowledged the collection as a fiasco. It did not upset the rapper at all, but reminded the public of the global question to Yeezy: what does Kanye want in general and why do we need all this?

His collaboration with adidas began in 2013, a few months after the release of Yeezus. Then it was perceived as a one-time action, a collaboration in support of the new disc - neither Kanye nor adidas representatives promised that we would see at least one more of their joint collection. The rapper's only full-fledged and own fashionable project - the DW Kanye West brand - did not exist for long and without much insight. While things fared better with the capsule collections, there was no guarantee that the Yeezy would shoot.

But the mark fired. Maybe Kanye West's multimillion-dollar fan hangout still has the opportunity to touch the idol through his clothes. Maybe Kim Kardashian fans wanted to have all these spandex-like things that the rapper's wife has been promoting and actively wearing since the first day of the brand's existence. Or maybe Kanye West's involvement in the lineup worked in a complex way: after all, he is known not only for his musical creativity.

West in the eyes of many is a kind of egocentric squared, a fighter with the system and for the rights of African Americans, a person-who-is-not-afraid-to-speak-the-truth

All the way, the rapper was not shy in expressions, insulted everyone he considered wrong - from Taylor Swift to the President of the United States - and called himself God. Taking over the work of Pygmalion, he almost literally fashioned out of Kim the woman we know - with cosmic forms and a frank wardrobe. Kim, in general, did not hide this: she loves to tell in interviews that Kanye threw half of the things out of her closet as soon as they started dating, and now the most famous woman on the planet dresses for her husband.

West in the eyes of many is a kind of egocentric squared, a fighter with the system and for the rights of African Americans, a champion of justice, a man-who-is-not-afraid-to-tell-the-truth, and also his woman is the most popular and conventionally, almost caricaturedly sexy. It's not hard to see why this image of a self-made star and alpha male sells well in the world we live in. The brand is built around a powerful controversial personality, so you want to look for a second bottom in it, even if it is not there. Even if sneakers and leotards in muted shades are shown on the catwalk from season to season.

The sales of Yeezy Season 1 decided everything for the critics: a real consumer hysteria unfolded around Yeezy Boots, the clothes were sold out in an hour. Then there was Yeezy Season 2 and Yeezy Season 3, and history seemed to repeat itself. All over the world (including in Moscow) sneakerheads, Kanye West fans and many others stood in lines for several days to buy sneakers created by an idol.Clothes were still swept away in concept stores, although textile bombers at two thousand dollars a piece can be called even moderately expensive.

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In parallel to West, the fashion industry applauded: for example, Karin Roitfeld dedicated almost an entire issue of the CR Fashion Book to the Yeezy Season 3 collection, filming the most popular models like Gigi Hadid in these things. It's not worth talking about the support of Anna Wintour once again - it was she who officially assured Kanye and Kim's transition to the status of fashion celestials by placing a photo of the couple on the cover of Vogue US. This cover became one of the most resonant of Wintour's career. Many rightly didn’t understand what Kim and Kanye had to do with high fashion, but the fashion industry never ignores those who, with their fame, can help sell circulation and new dresses. Everyone is happy, everyone is happy.

But already from the second Yeezy collection, many had a feeling that something was wrong with the brand. Before that, Kanye could be blamed for anything, but not for dispersion, not for fussiness, not for hypocrisy. One of the greatest artists of our time decided to feed his god complex and take place in the fashion industry as well - well, not a problem. But judging by West's words, his goals are much more global, almost universal. Almost immediately, the rapper began giving interviews in which he said that clothes in his brand are secondary, the main thing is the statement and the very secret meanings.

This would be a very correct positioning: modern fashion has not made clothes for the sake of clothes for a long time, the context is really important, and the hidden meaning is important too. And everything went well for a while. Season 1 is a story about body positivity, beauty of all races and sizes, models from street-casting, peace and love, and in spite of them - the military theme of the collection. Season 2 - an attack on racism: on the catwalk, the models were made into a vivid gradient so that they stood according to their skin color, from dark to light. The finale of the Yeezy Season 3 show staged the terrible events of April 7, 1994: the act of genocide of the Tutsi tribe, hundreds of thousands of whose bodies were made up of whole mountains. Plus, the show was held at the stadium, it was attended by 18 thousand people, and in parallel, West presented a new album. As Tim Blanks noted, New York Fashion Week has never seen anything like it.

By the fourth season, artificially aged sweatshirts, sweatshirts and oversized jackets ceased to inspire, and stiletto heels could not withstand even a single run on the catwalk

But by the fourth season, Kanye skidded: in the wake of success, he began to behave like the head of a totalitarian state, which is rapidly losing touch with reality. For example, he announced that he was recruiting only multiracial female models to show - and this statement in itself caused protests right in the casting line and legitimate criticism of discrimination in the media. A little earlier it turned out that West enjoys his popularity and exploits the labor of non-professional models "off the streets", paying them $ 100 for a 10-hour working day (while the rapper did not save on the invited top models).

Yes, he brought the selected multiracial girls to the Franklin Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park and dressed only in white clothes, which Vogue.com immediately called a protest against the candidacy of Donald Trump, a famous racist, in the presidential elections. But isn't it racism - not to let black and light-skinned models be shown? Shouldn't its participants receive a decent fee for a beautiful performance about equal rights? And what sense could there be when girls crawl onto the grass from heatstroke? How can you talk about tolerance by such means?

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In addition, no matter how bold aspirations and lofty ideas Kanye may serve, at the show he speaks about them through clothes. By the fourth season, artificially aged sweatshirts, sweatshirts and oversized jackets stopped inspiring editors melting in the sun, and the quality of the only innovation - stiletto heels - could not withstand even a single run on the catwalk.Representatives of adidas immediately disowned the embarrassment: "These boots are not part of a collaboration with adidas," - said the representative of the brand and added that Kanye will definitely finalize the podium sample. At the same time, pictures of models in transparent boots appeared on the Web - their feet sweat so much in the sun that it was impossible even to fasten a zipper.

Additional business problems also emerged. Highsnobiety, referring to friendly buyers, wrote that with all the success of Yeezy Boots, clothes from Kanye's collections could not boast of commercial victories. Yeezy's production and logistics are set up in such a way that deliveries come half a season late, the lion's share of runway models won't be sewn for sale, customer deposits have been burned out, but Kanye doesn't seem to care too much about that. He continues to talk about the interlinear meanings of clothing, although this story increasingly resembles a soap bubble.

Kanye West became who he is, largely due to his sincere, sometimes bordering on fanaticism, maximalism, which he seemed to be unable to control. But it was at least honest: his impulsive actions looked sincere and seemed to be genuine emotional impulses. Therefore, it is strange that his Yeezy at the level of media image and concept looks ambiguous - if not hypocritical.

Kanye West became who he is, largely due to his sincere, sometimes bordering on fanaticism, maximalism

Obviously, the models could at least drop dead at the show - things will be swept away anyway. But, first of all, even West and Kardashian's media power won't last forever: most reviews of Yeezy Season 4 are either dry or devastating. You can consider yourself the ruler of the world, but disrespecting editors and models, while making not too talented clothes, is impossible without consequences. It is unlikely that Kanye will be satisfied if his brand becomes a global analogue of Black Star Timati and is sold on escalators in shopping centers, so he is extremely recklessly spending media loyalty from the A-list - without their approval, Yeezy will not last in the top high fashion brands and a couple seasons.

And second, what does Kanye want? If you become a king in the fashion industry as well, then it is unclear why this is the fourth time that he shows artless leggings in flesh shades under sports crop tops and simple sweatshirts. If you build a big brand and make money, it pays surprisingly little attention to the business moment. If you become an artist-activist from fashion, then it is strange that he has worked out his social position so poorly and allows himself discrimination, multiplied by star fever. Maybe West just wants to prove to everyone (and to himself) that whatever he takes turns to gold? So he already has 21 Grammy figurines of exactly this color and more than a hundred million albums sold. Relax, Kanye, a talented person doesn't have to be talented at everything.

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Photos: Yeezy Season 4 Lookbook, Getty Images, Kanye West

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