IN THE WEEKLY HEADING "NEW BRAND" we introduce young designers and tell you where and why you should buy their clothes. Our hero this week is Sheng Hook and his namesake brand based in Los Angeles.
The creator of the brand of the same name, Sheng Hook, is only twenty-one. He is self-taught and for the sake of his own business moved from Los Angeles to New York - the city where it is easiest for a young designer to realize himself. It was a year ago, a month before the debut at New York Fashion Week. The show, which took place at St. Mark's Church, allowed him to attract the attention of such publications as Business of Fashion and Dazed, avid for young talents. Sheng admits that he wanted to design clothes from the age of eight, but only a negative experience in business school ("I hated her") made him seriously think about making his dreams come true.
Now the designer has three full-fledged collections - and all are completely different. “I don’t want to be the one who does the same thing over and over,” he says. If there is something that unites them, it is the inspiration of youth, the people who surround the designer. The starting point of the first collection was not only teenagers from provincial US cities, but also several films, one of which, Lilya Forever, is especially close to residents of the post-Soviet space. The suburban uniforms - plaid shirts, cargo shorts, short shorts, trousers and sweatshirts with stripes - Hook combined with frayed trainers and sneakers. Both boys and girls demonstrated them. However, in the newest collection of the brand - spring-summer of the next season, whose presentation took place in Paris - there is a clear division into men and women. "The expression 'agender clothing' today loses all meaning and becomes just a clickbait," says the designer.
Huge logos on sweatshirts, lettering on T-shirts, hoodies, transparent dresses, satin jackets with a bright baroque print - the latest collection of the brand looks simple and clearly aimed at commercial success. There is an explanation for this: Sheng believes that, first of all, clothes should be sold. Given the sheer scope of ambition at such a young age, Dizaneir might well be expected to create an empire of its own.
Usually I need two months to work out the idea to the end. I think about the concept and gradually bring it to perfection. If I did the first thing that came into my head right away, my clothes would be ridiculous. You need to discard the unnecessary and filter - over and over again.
Photos: Shan huq