WE TELL ABOUT TRENDS FROM THE PODIUM, which you can adapt to your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we figure out how to choose a corset and what sources of inspiration were from the designers who showed corsets in the spring-summer collections.
How it all started
Women tried to emphasize the waist even in Ancient Greece - they used, however, wide belts. The corset came to Europe thanks to the Crusades. Its appearance was constantly changing, and craftsmen were constantly finding new materials for making. In France in the 16th century, the corset became an object of modeling the figure, which helped women to approach the ideals of that time: it made the chest plump and the waist thin. The wooden or metal rods used at first were replaced by the whalebone, which, although it was lighter, did not make clothes more comfortable. Corsets were able to reduce the girth to forty centimeters, but this was not enough - for example, Catherine de Medici was striving for the unattainable thirty-three centimeters. It is not surprising that this method of changing the proportions led to deformation of internal organs and subsequently even to death.
In the 18th century, Empire style dresses came into fashion - with a relatively simple cut and a high waistline. So, for a while, the popularity of the corset came to naught - but not for long. By the early 1820s, he returned to the wardrobes. By the middle of the century, they began to oppose the corset more openly: the harm from wearing it by that time had been confirmed by medicine. Despite all this, the corset, albeit changing, existed in the wardrobe of women for a very long time - until the First World War.
In 1905, designer Paul Poiret, inspired by Mata Hari and Isadora Duncan, offered women comfortable shirt dresses that did not have a corset. Later, a variation on the corset theme came back into fashion with a light hand from Christian Dior in 1947: he proposed the famous new look silhouette with a thin waist and smooth hips. Fortunately, by that time, corsets no longer tightened the waist, but kept the proportions close to natural.
Only in the 80s did the corset migrate to the everyday wardrobe. It was from this time that home clothes - what was customary to hide - stood on a par with everyday things. The work of designer Thierry Mugler, the visionary and main inventor of the time, entered the history of fashion. True, in terms of recognition it will never compare with the famous creation of Jean Paul Gaultier. For the first time on the catwalk, his corset was shown back in 1982, but he gained wide popularity in 1990 thanks to Madonna's "Blonde Ambition" tour.
How corsets are back in fashion
It all started in the 2000s. The function of the corset has changed dramatically: there was no longer any question of deformation of the figure and tightening. Nouveau riche chic with rhinestones, logos, lacing and open body, the desire to emphasize ultra-femininity led to the fact that corsets have returned to wardrobes. Pop stars have also contributed to this - from Lindsay Lohan and Britney Spears to EVE and Beyoncé. They wore corsets not only in clips, but also in everyday life - on a naked body or over classic shirts, combined with low-waisted jeans and mini-skirts.
In 2001, the video "Lady Marmalade" was released with Christina Aguilera, Maya, Pink and Lil'Kim, which instantly became a hit. The clip, for which theatrical costumes of dancers of the late 19th century and elements of the 2000s were stylized, went off like a bomb. Corsets began to be made of "washed" denim, with lace elements or decorated with stripes. You could buy these even in the gradually conquering world of the mass market - along with caps, leggings and plush suits. In the fall of 2016, designers urge again to remember the elements that were popular a decade ago - albeit in a completely new reading.
How to wear
A corset today is an element of a multi-layered image. It is already rarely offered to be worn on a naked body, more often with ordinary T-shirts, turtlenecks or shirts.The models themselves have also become more minimalistic - monochromatic, without unnecessary details. This trend is clearly shown by the main lover of corrective underwear for show, Kim Kardashian. Even her favorite corsets resemble wide belts rather than a torture piece of clothing.
In the Prada collection, the corset is tightened in half and is made of soft cotton - it is worn over pea jackets and jackets. It was he who became one of the hits among street-style photographers during the recent fashion weeks. At Loewe, the corset looks more like a translucent bandage: at the show it was combined with a white shirt dress and gold jewelry. Even in the deliberately sexy Moschino collection, a leather corset is combined with a simple top. So the smaller the naked body, the more interesting.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons, Alyx, Carmen March