The foundation of the cosmetic bag and half the success - this is the correct tonal basis. You can live beautifully without it, but it is difficult to imagine technical and complex makeup without a tone that will allow colors to lie down as cleanly as possible, and shapes and textures not to conflict with each other. The days when foundations could not be recommended for regular use are far behind. The advantages of the new formulas are more and more: many of them have an additional caring effect, in the cold season the coating is able to protect the skin from aggressive external influences, and a wide selection of textures allows you to choose the ideal invisible helper. Together with Gevorg, makeup artist and author of the Super make up blog Suka, Gevorg, we are trying to figure out how not to make a pocket-wasting mistake, what adjasters are and how to find your perfect color.
Shade and undertone
You can find all the basic rules on how to choose the right decorative tool in the mandatory set of any beauty blog: it is recommended to determine the skin tone by the color of the veins on the wrist or by applying a white sheet to the face. These tips are not universal, so even those with an even and stable complexion should take into account the nuances. In addition to genetics, many factors affect the condition, and therefore the color of the skin - if one day everything is taken into account, then it will be possible to get rid of painful searches for a long time.
There is no single regulation in the description of skin color, so foundations are sold under a variety of magnificent names. You can hear up to a dozen subtone designations: golden, bluish, olive, reddish, greenish. Let's agree that five will be enough for our explanation: the subtone can be, as is clear from the popular assortment, yellow or pink, as well as olive or neutral (in such a skin there are several pigments in almost equal proportions). For dark skin, red is also distinguished. With the main tone, things are much easier - the shades are ranked by saturation from light to dark, and not only professional brands have a large selection.
The yellow undertone is the most problem-free, especially today: suitable shades of varying degrees of intensity are easily found among Korean-made tonal means. These skin types usually do not require much color grading, and perfect coverage is easy to achieve with even the lightest of fluids. You can change the bases if in summer the skin tans easily, but it is possible that you can do with one suitable color, complementing it with a bronzer. Owners of a pink undertone are somewhat more difficult. Even on healthy and well-groomed skin, there may be areas where the vessels are naturally located closer to the surface - as a rule, this is the area of the nose. In the cold season, redness, which may not be to everyone's liking, becomes a regular companion every time you go outside.
Owners of a pink undertone are often advised to choose a product with a yellow tint to compensate for it. Gevorg explains that this should only be done if you really do not like strong redness or want to hide rosacea: “If you have a face with a pink undertone, then you need to relax and choose a tone of foundation that matches your skin color. And if you have problem skin, closely spaced vessels and a pronounced pink complexion, I would advise you to try light moisturizing textures like CC creams. Then, when choosing a color, you can put more emphasis on the yellow subtone. This simple technique will help create a visual sense of an even complexion. " It should be noted that special markings, again due to the lack of any consensus in the name of the funds, can be deceiving.A color labeled "beige" can have either a yellow or a pink tint, so clarifications are never superfluous.
Olive skin tone is less common and is defined as yellow with a greenish tint. It is because of him that even very light skin can seem darkish, so that rich foundations with a yellow undertone are suitable for it. The rarest neutral shade can be friends with different bases, depending on the preferences of the owner - here, when choosing, it is important to ideally choose the color saturation. Specialty products exist for these tricky skin tones, and should be sought out from professional brands like MAC, NARS and Make Up Forever.
Clarifiers and dimmers (or adjusters) of tonal means, which were previously found in a cosmetic bag not even in every makeup artist, has recently become easy to buy for anyone. If the base suits you in every way except color, then customizing it properly can work wonders. Gevorg reminds that, first of all, these products are a type of foundation, differing only in an extremely dark or light shade. So, if there is an available alternative, the bank can easily end up being abandoned in the distant shelf over time.
The make-up artist explains what to consider when using such a product: “The lightener has its own texture, light (like, for example, MAC Face and Body white tone) or much denser (Manly Pro white adjuster). When you mix your foundation with a drop of adjuster, the texture also changes. Here's an example: if you take the light wet tone of Chanel Vitalumière Aqua and lighten the shade with MAC Face and Body, the tone density remains the same low. And if you use a light BB cream and try to mix it with the white tone of Manly Pro, the overall consistency of the product will immediately become quite dense."
There are also subtleties in handling color: the most popular mass product, The Body Shop adjuster, contains pink pigment, so if the task of “cooling” the tone is not at all necessary for you, it may not work. It is possible that the solution to the problem already lies with you somewhere among the rubble of cosmetics. For example, Gevorg prefers to use Sephora very light moisturizing concealer as an adjuster. So, your favorite concealers in very light or very dark shades and comfortable textures can perfectly play the role of a means for customization - as a rule, among professional brighteners and darkeners, the choice according to this criterion is very meager.
Most products that are intended for daily use do not provide a dense coverage, which is not necessary from them. The base for make-up significantly helps the correct shrinkage of the color of the foundation. Among them there are tools designed for color correction - Givenchy Actimine, Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Primer and many others. With their help, you can easily give the skin the desired neutrality, and then apply the main tone.
How to choose funds
Of course, the best option is obvious: you have to try everything on your face. The inner side of the hand in this sense is a poor helper. The skin color of this part of the body often differs from the skin color of the face, and it is quite difficult to adequately assess whether you have chosen the desired coverage density. It is very important to test in natural light, but unfortunately it is a rare beast in our stores. A good solution is to consult a makeup artist who will help you decide not only on the color, but also on the composition suitable for your skin type and the general set of products that you need. Many people recommend choosing a tone so that there is no need to complete the makeup with powder, which may not suit problem skin.
If a curse hangs over you and your favorite products are discontinued, then at your service is a fairly accurate Findation service, which looks for similar tonal foundations among all the products it knows. The Temptalia blog is equipped with the same function - in addition, there you can choose a base according to the main characteristics: subtone and shade.
Photos: MAC, The Body Shop, NARS