The world has changed, as Galadriel says at the beginning of The Lord of the Rings. The approach to beauty has also changed - in particular, to skin care: technological breakthroughs, increased consumption awareness and generational change dictate new rules. On the other hand, it cannot be said that the habit of presenting cellulite in advertising campaigns as a terrible disease is a thing of the past, and any, even natural and harmless skin features are still designated by the offensive word “imperfections”. We are thinking about the changes that have occurred in the beauty industry over the past five years, and trying to understand what will happen next.
“Wrinkles are not the main thing anymore,” - with these words begins an article on the largest WWD website about a new approach to beauty. For the last 10-15 years, the beauty market has been aimed at rejuvenation: firstly, the development of modern technologies has made it possible to create qualitatively new products, and secondly, paying customers, the generation of baby boomers, began to age, and the industry of eternal youth began to turn to them Attention. Now a new generation has grown up - and a new approach is also needed to it.
Millennials (that is, all of us) are more likely to worry about how they will look on Instagram today, rather than what will happen to their faces in ten years. “Today's 30-year-olds take more photos a day than their mothers in a year,” explains CEO of Estée Lauder Corporation, which this year launched The Estée Edit cosmetics targeting millennials. "They want instant results." That is why manufacturers of products for young people keep their focus on masks, creams with a blur effect and other instant responders. Advertising campaigns emphasize the energy of their consumers and multitasking: their heroines live in a metropolis, manage to attend a dozen meetings and events per day, sleep little and manage to look great under such conditions. With the help of cosmetics, of course.
One of the most successful examples of products for millennials is Glossier, created by the founder of Into the Gloss, Emily Weiss. Born on the internet and promoted through social media, the brand offers simple and intuitive means that make skin look attractive in the photos you post on social media (the minimalist packaging of the creams themselves look just as good on them).
Ease of use is another important feature of modern skincare: Millennials are always in a rush and often use products on the go. At the same time, the market for cosmetics inspired by Asian trends is growing - with the exact opposite philosophy: skin care as a ritual, time dedicated to oneself, which should be as much as possible. From Asia came not only fabric and night masks, the versions of which were released this year by many European brands, but also caring lotions (a hybrid of a tonic and a light emulsion, which are applied before the main stage of cleansing and improve the penetration of funds into the skin). More is better: Layering is the foundation of Asian grooming.
At the same time, anti-aging cosmetics, of course, have not gone anywhere - we are all getting old and we all want to look good. However, the attitude towards age has changed. The impact on the skin is now a global issue: the funds are no longer divided into "from 25" or "up to 40", there are more and more products that affect, as marketers like to say, "at the cellular level", qualitatively improving the most different skin. Looking “your best” regardless of the age is the idea of a new generation of anti-aging products. Some brands go even further and release lines that offer not to fight against the manifestations of age, but to enjoy them - for example, Darphin Exquisage.
The endless struggle with one's own aging - which means, to some extent, with oneself - is being replaced by the understanding that beauty is, first of all, health and harmony. The trend towards naturalness, which goes hand in hand with ethical consumption, began even before global corporations drew attention to our generation. In the same article on WWD, experts note that small brands have been especially growing lately: individual approach, human stories and local consumption are replacing corporate identity.
The strengths of large companies are the ability to pay for expensive, cutting-edge developments. Big brands are taken with a scientific (sometimes pseudoscientific) approach: here we have an amazing superpeptide, here a molecule that penetrates to the liver, there are ninety-six patents in this cream - and everything, of course, is unique, incredible and gives an unprecedented result. It is difficult to distinguish marketing technology from promises that the tools can actually deliver. Even the ability to read the formulations does not always help, since skin care involves many subtleties (for example, not every ingredient needs a high concentration). In the race for high performance, funds and brands that offer procedures similar to salon ones are winning: today it is possible to achieve at home the same or almost the same results as in a good clinic. Of course, "analogs of Botox" are still a marketing lure, but ampoule care courses and alginate masks can be done quite successfully in your own bathroom, saving not only money, but also such valuable time.
We are all getting old, and many people still find it difficult to come to terms with this fact. But times are changing, and today we are at least able and free to independently decide what to do with our wrinkles. Thanks to beauty blogs and special resources, which today are maintained not only by amateurs, but also by professionals, as well as the general availability of information, it is not so easy to buy us with promises. Cosmetics manufacturers really have to work hard. We do not know anything about the cosmetology of the future, but we can assume the most interesting scenarios for the development of events: discussions about beauty are becoming more open and less neurotic, and awareness is gradually becoming the basis of care, like lifestyle in general. It is possible, of course, that the Photoshop effect will win to the end, but I want to hope for something else: that faith in standards will be replaced by an orientation towards the individuality of the client and his knowledge of his own preferences. And this is really the beginning of a completely different era.
Photos: Lancome, Clinique, Escentual, Kiehls, Sephora, Malin + goetz, Ile de Beaute, Shop swiss line