5 Russian Brands That Do Not Separate Clothing And Art

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5 Russian Brands That Do Not Separate Clothing And Art
5 Russian Brands That Do Not Separate Clothing And Art

Video: 5 Russian Brands That Do Not Separate Clothing And Art

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Video: Clothing Brands You SHOULDN'T WEAR In Russia! 2023, January

Over the past few years, there have appeared in Russia many local brands that produce clothes for life: basic, sports, smart, very different. However, in the pursuit of commercial success, young designers often lose their creativity, so that as a result, all the work looks suspiciously similar. We have selected young artists for whom design remains a field for experimentation, despite the emerging trend towards versatility.

Factive face

The founder of the brand, Lusine Avetisyan, studied at the St. Petersburg Art Academy named after Stieglitz, where she experimented a lot - however, her teachers were of little interest in her creative throwings. But unusual collections - with a complex cut, corsets, numerous draperies, an abundance of handmade ruffles, rhinestones and flowers - noticed Franca Sozzani - this is how Avetisyan received the title of Best Project in the Vogue Italia Talents competition. After working as a stylist for several years, the designer completely rethought her approach to work - this was also helped by her participation in the Milan trade show Pitty Super. There she met Maria Ter-Markaryan, who advised Lusine not to play with the design, but to work on prints so that the originality of the author's drawing could be seen in the clothes.

“There has been a wave of introducing art into all areas of design,” says Lusine, “from sweatshirts with reproductions of prints to the collaboration of major fashion houses with artists. It's cool that art is in vogue now: a drawing can be transferred to any surface and an ordinary thing will become an art object available for purchase and operation. Of course, I'm being cunning if I say that I don't care about the commercial side - nevertheless, the expression of a creative vision is paramount to me. I would like to believe that commerce goes hand in hand with creativity and does not interrupt it. " The Factive Face collections are now paired with February First (next on this list) at Find a Name in Paris.

February First

Sisters Daria and Anastasia Zhilyaeva graduated from the Florentine school Polimoda and now live and work between Florence, Rotterdam and their native St. Petersburg. The name of the brand refers to the birthday of the founders: they were both born on the first of February, however, with a difference of five years. February First clothing tells a mystical story: exaggerated volumes, intricate embroidery, unusual materials like vegan leather made from mushrooms. The girls admit that their aesthetics resonate most strongly with buyers in the UK and Asia. It is noteworthy that the girls collaborate with third-party artists. For example, with Liza Smirnova, who worked on a series of prints for February First clothes.

“It seems to me that if you've already decided to do difficult things, don't back down,” says Daria. - For example, my teacher from Polimoda, Andrea Cammarosano, loves to work with crazy design, and his agent constantly persuades me to make things easier for sale - then he dutifully adds T-shirts to the collection. Well, then a couple of weeks before the Paris showroom, horrified that he had betrayed himself, he creates a very complex sweater that is completely unsuitable for life, and, of course, buyers choose it. And they order a lot at once.

We have also encountered this. Many simple things were made for the Briofita collection, and they all sadly hang unsold here, and a gray jacket with a hole on the back and huge sleeves, about which our designer said: “Dasha, I don’t know what it is at all” - now bestseller, we still sew it to order. My experience shows that in order for an art design project to be commercially successful, in no case should you try to please everyone. Those guys who love unusual things, very loyal customers, they will provide you with good income. But do not offend them by adding basic jeans to the collection. They certainly won't forgive him."

Evgeniya Barkova

Evgeniya is a certified linguist. She considers her first education to be an important life lesson: “A mistake lasting five years helped me understand two things: first, you need to hear yourself; secondly, let it be anything but routine. I think that I am subconsciously guided by these two principles in everything - design as well”. Now Barkova is completing her bachelor's degree at the British Higher School of Art and Design. The designer's outlook on things is rather romantic: it is not so important whether a design idea transforms into a utilitarian object or remains a beautiful concept - the main thing is that it gives emotion to a potential buyer.

The girl admits that she does not understand why “avant-garde” and “art” are often opposed to commercial success: “The very essence of modern fashion is a constant movement forward, the industry is based on it. And if you don’t surprise from season to season - goodbye. In my opinion, most of the shows at today's fashion weeks are avant-garde: Raf Simons, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, and Prada, for example, are super successful commercial designers who, as far as I know, draw inspiration from contemporary art. As a consequence, their clothing is comparable in artistic value to the work of Koons or Quinn. And what about the current Gucci?.. Although, of course, not everything is clear. My beloved, incredibly talented Meadham Kirchhoff and Thomas Tait dropped out of the race. The latter, by the way, won the LVMH Prize, which is three hundred thousand euros plus the annual business support of the giant LVMH. And still it didn’t work, although he did innovative things”.

Evgenia believes that if an idea is cool, in any case, you can mold a wearable collection from it: “The idea is always primary. For me, this approach is now a priority - to do what you love to the point of insanity, and not to compromise. I don’t think about how to make my project commercial. It may be an irresponsible and punk approach, but I see a lot more prospects in it than in thoughts of monetization. I want to finish my graduation collection as well as I can. After that I will continue to experiment, surprise and inspire, do what I like, a lot and persistently. I plan to recruit a team of like-minded people, because one is not a warrior in the field. I am not afraid of the prospect of slow and gradual growth - an investor who believes in what I am doing can turn a project into a commercial one, but it’s too early to talk about it”.

Natalia Timofeeva

Last year Natalya Timofeeva from Rostov, having become the winner of the New Names in Design competition, showed her collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, and today she continues to work far from the capital. Her approach to design captivates: in Timofeeva's works, calm silhouettes coexist with grotesque styling, vintage decor with elements of bright plastic, and sweeping hand prints with painstaking embroidery.

Natalia graduated from the School of Arts and the Academy of Architecture with a degree in stylist: “I have always liked to surprise people and work with complex materials that are not typical for creating clothes. Once I decided to revive my grandmother's old dress and sewed a huge flower from a broken umbrella. I liked the result very much, and that's how it all started. I don’t understand yet what this is connected with, but I always want to add something “from myself”.

Striking a balance between creativity and commerce is very difficult! But I am grateful to my clients for choosing things that were created for creative photography. They are bought by confident women who are not afraid to express themselves; now I started working with men as well. Every year I create about four capsule collections, plus a lot of side projects and, of course, individual orders. If you find yourself in something and do it with love, then there are no barriers and restrictions."

Masha Lamzina

Masha Lamzina lives in Vladivostok, but the artist's works, be they paintings or clothes, are scattered all over the world.Lamzina's style is light and recognizable - monochrome graphic prints on a bright or dark background, often provocative and paradoxical. Drawings are done by hand using a simple stencil and chlorine bleach, but it can take a lot of trial and error to get a finished job. Masha studied to be a graphic designer, since childhood she was fond of fashion and the creation of avant-garde clothing. As a result, she went to the finals of the ITS competition in Italy and received an invitation to an internship at the John Galliano fashion house - this is how Lamzina quit her job as a printing designer and took up fashion professionally.

Masha says that she spends a huge amount of time and effort just working with prints, textiles and textures: “This is what attracted me from the very beginning - creating something that is very fashionable at the same time and will never go out of style; unique things in which there will always be aesthetic value, even after ten, twenty or fifty years. I like to adapt my ideas for small collections that are accessible to a large number of people, but I still consider my main work to be projects that have art prints, a lot of manual labor, experimental cuts and avant-garde silhouettes.

Everything has its own consumer, most of what I do is sold out immediately after the presentations. Nevertheless, I am always looking for a balance between what I have achieved and the possibility of development, entering new markets. Being between art and design is very interesting, I like to occupy this particular niche. The main thing here is to be able to tell your story and convey ideas to those who will be interested in them."

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