Interview: Dasha Knyazeva
Photos: Lyuba Kozorezova
Layout: Dasha Chertanova
FOR THE HEADING "WARDROBE" we photograph beautifully, distinctively or oddly dressed people wearing their favorite things and ask them to tell stories related to them. This week our heroine is a clinical research specialist Zarina Rakhbanova.
Perhaps my interest in fashion, as is often the case, began to form in childhood. I remember that in the 90s, my parents brought clothes from the first European trips, those things contrasted strongly with the unsettled post-Soviet life in a small apartment. Then there was a long period when there was barely enough money for food, so it was difficult to think about fashion - I bought clothes exclusively at sales. Having gained financial independence and starting an independent life, I, of course, went through a period of consumer boom. Now I try not to buy anything in the mass market, although completely avoiding it, frankly, is difficult.
Gradually, my attitude to clothes became more like collecting: I perceive my wardrobe as a fashion archive. First of all, it is important for me to realize the value of things - this understanding is made up of the smallest details, cut, quality, references to the history of fashion, art or popular culture, so considerations of practicality fade into the background. Among the designers, I would single out Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Miuccia Prada and Walter van Beirendonck.
At the same time, it is important for me that all the clothes in the wardrobe are wearable - after all, first of all, they are sewn to be worn, and not kept in a museum. Unfortunately, with designer things there is often such an ambush: it is a pity to cover them up and they rarely age beautifully. In addition, they require more sophisticated care than, say, jeans. This gave me a set of perfect everyday items like Issey Miyake pleated clothes. In my opinion, these are brilliant models: they do not need to be ironed, they are beautifully and of high quality, and they also look appropriate at work, where there is a dress code.
Pants & Shoes - Helmut Lang, Jil Sander T-shirt
The T-shirt from the Spring / Summer 2011 collection, Techno Couture, featured shockingly vibrant colors combined with mid-20th century couture shapes and silhouettes that referred to the work of Cristobal Balenciaga. The print reminds me of Mark Quinn's hyper-realistic color work. On the runway, the look with this tee looked like Quinn's imaginary collaboration with Balenciaga.
Helmut Lang's 2003 trousers - their severity is diluted by a bandage belt. Shoes are my only pair of low heels.
Jacket from Bangkok, Walter Van Beirendonck dress, Prada boots
I bought a jacket in Bangkok at the Chatuchak market, I feel like a transformer in it. Fanatically I love Walter van Beirendonck for his fantastic prints, color combinations and clothing slogans. Prada boots have a detachable buckle, they remind me of fishing boots.
Crocs Christopher Kane
Hussein Chalayan Jacket, Barragán T-shirt, Soop Soop Sweatpants
Jacket from a collection called Medea, consisting of intricately tailored, aged and deconstructed items. Hussein Chalayan said that these models personify ghosts that bear the imprint of different eras. The details of the jacket refer to periods in the history of fashion: for example, such a row of buttons is characteristic of Victorian clothing, and the stand-up collar is typical of Chinese clothing.
I bought the trainers in the Canadian Soop Soop store - a comfortable everyday thing that you do not mind covering up to holes.
1995 Tabi is one of the most beloved pairs of shoes in the wardrobe. This shoe is already twenty-three years old - the leather has aged beautifully and retains its quality despite regular wear. Margiela bought all the archival items in Antwerp.
Monki top, jeans and tabi - Maison Margiela
Oversized wrap-around jeans from Margiela's iconic 2000 La mode du XXL collection. Much has been said about Margiela over the past couple of years, thanks in large part to the excellent retrospective exhibitions that have shown the greatness of his legacy.
Coats & Shoes - Jil Sander
A coat from the times of Raf Simons, the designer has an amazing sense of color. I really love the period when he worked at Jil Sander: I have things from almost every collection of Simons, except the earliest ones. The coat creates a very sensual look with an organza insert on the back and sleeves.
Shoes from the last Rafa collection of 2012 for Gilles Sander - he will then make similar shoes for Dior, developing the forms that he began to do in the Jil Sander brand.
Alaïa dress, tabi by Maison Margiela
The dress from the spring-summer 1994 collection is called Houpette and, according to curator Olivier Sayard, remains one of the most iconic pieces in the work of Azzedine Alaya. Models of this collection are in the archives of museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Galliera in Paris.
The design of the dress refers to the work of the American couturier Charles James and, in particular, his La Sirene dress - it resembles a lobster in shape. Very unexpectedly I bought this thing on a business trip in Kazan, in the second-hand "Bloch". As I was told in the store, it was brought by a former model who participated in the same show - Azzedine gave her this dress as a fee.
In tabi, I like the combination of futuristic design and color. I love the heel very much, it makes this shoe, in addition to everything else, very comfortable.
Jil Sander Bag
Balenciaga Jacket, Topshop Jeans, Jil Sander Boots
The jacket from the 2008 collection from the time of Nicolas Ghesquière is one of my favorite designer pieces for Balenciaga. This collection most organically interprets the work of Balenciaga himself, who loved architectural forms. Jil Sander boots from the times of Raf Simons in 2007 - I perceive the shoes of this designer as a sculpture.
I love the 1998 skirt for the thin cutouts at the back and front, and I also really like the way it looks in motion - it feels like you are not wearing underwear.
Top Jacquemus, Prada skirt, Jil Sander shoes
I love this top for the cuts and shape, and in the shoes I really like the combination of a delicate color and a square nose. I bought them in Paris at the de Laurentis archives store - there is a great selection. The store is owned by a brilliant connoisseur of fashion history, who can always find very interesting things.
This coat delightfully combines form, color and velvety texture; and I love mules for the graphic patchwork.
Comme des Garçons coat, Junya Watanabe mules
A coat from the 2012 2D Paperdoll Collection with paper-cut clothing. The idea is new: in the 90s Margiela had both a “doll” collection and a collection with “flat” things; Galliano in 2000 also demonstrated dresses in a similar spirit. I love the way Kawakubo interpreted these ideas, integrating them organically into her exploration of form.
Marques'Almeida top, Topshop jeans, adidas sneakers
I really love transparent fabrics and bare breasts. This stunning top from the Spring / Summer 2015 collection is hand-embroidered with Swarovski crystals. They weigh three kilograms and strongly pull thin silk, because of which, unfortunately, it began to tear. Perhaps the most impractical and inconvenient thing in my wardrobe. Swarovski has been supporting designers for sixteen years with funding and crystals - the Marques'Almeida brand is also part of this cool initiative that began with Alexander McQueen in 1999.
Topshop black jeans have the perfect fit - they go well with just about anything.
Comme des Garçons Stephen Jones Millinery