Autumn Spirit: 7 Scents With A Hint Of Leather

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Autumn Spirit: 7 Scents With A Hint Of Leather
Autumn Spirit: 7 Scents With A Hint Of Leather
Video: Autumn Spirit: 7 Scents With A Hint Of Leather
Video: TOP 10 PERFUMES FOR FALL \u0026 AUTUMN | Soki London 2023, February
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One often wants to add to the autumn perfumery palette bright warming fragrances, and the best choice might be leather, an ingredient with a long history in which it has appeared in dozens of different combinations and roles. Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova showed us seven different "skins": representative, animal and floral.

Nudiflorum

Nasomatto

RUB 9900

for 30 ml

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Alessandro Gualtieri, aka Signor Nasomatto, discontinued one of the best fragrances of the brand, the herbaceous patchouli Hindu Grass, and quickly gave us excellent leather in return - the new Nudiflorum. Botanists, do not rush to jump up from your seats - to jasminum nudiflorum, or golotvetkovu jasmine, the aroma has nothing to do. But he definitely has “naked” and “flowery”: for the first is the skin, greenish, like a depraved harness in the neon light of the club, for the second - irises and violets, rubbed into a fine powder along with some white petals. A good, modern sounding replacement for the classic Bandit, Robert Piguet.

Alaïa

Alaïa paris

RUB 5600

for 30 ml

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Perfume critic Luca Turin compares Alaïa to the cool air on an airplane - so much so that I want to quote. This means, of course, not a dense stench that hangs on the fortieth row closer to the last hour of the China Eastern transcontinental flight, but a carefully filtered, almost mineral, like a chilled Chablis, atmospheric front that meets at the entrance to a brand new Boeing. Add to this the subtle scent of leather chairs and invisible perfume flowers, icy and abstract - they always bloom around the strict senior flight attendants - and you have Alaïa.

Eau de Velours

Bottega veneta

9990 RUB

for 50 ml

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Bottega Veneta would not be Bottega if it did not have an expensive perfume line. There is such a (good) one - it is called Parco Palladiano, and it was in its design that the brand used its trademark “intreccio” pattern. The cheaper and more popular Cuir Velours did not get a chic bottle, but in terms of content, it is this bottle, in the language of marketers, that ideally matches the brand's DNA. Formally, it is a leather chypre, but by chypre here, of course, they mean the modern variety with patchouli instead of moss. In fact, "Velvet Water" is a scent in deep wine tones of Archimbold's "Spring", dark peppery roses and plum branches intercepted by a leather cord, gloomy air in the crowns of a century-old Italian magnolia. Very thoroughbred.

Soleil de Jeddah

777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas

RUB 22,500

for 50 ml

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Stéphane Humbert Lucas, or, as it is often called for simplicity, Three Sevens, is one of the most interesting brands in modern perfumery. The Frenchman Stefan Luca, who has long and happily in love with the Arab East, is engaged in it; all the moves and schemes of Arab perfumery, all this complex shadow theater - layer after fragrant layer, smear after fragrant smear - are here in place. As well as the eastern tenacity: "Sevens" dig into your skin, like falcon claws - into a hunter's glove. Soleil de Jeddah is a nervous and agile bird, spinning on the hand of its mistress-sheikh in all directions, observing various nuances of the surrounding landscape from the fragrant leather gut of an SUV: the salty edge of the Persian Gulf, the amber sands of the Rub al-Khali desert, lemon bushes of oases, gilded the Arabian sun.

Cuir rustique

Paul emilien

RUB 11,700

for 100 ml in the Aromateka boutique

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Dreams of Grasse, which has long ceased to be the perfume capital of the world, haunt modern romantics. Paul Émilien is one of them: his Cuir Rustique is a dedication to the era when perfumery was gradually getting out into the fresh air from leather workshops in the south of France, where skins brought from Italy, Spain and the Levant were processed. The tannins smelled bad, and therefore the leather was soaked in fragrant extracts to drown out the stench - but Cuir Rustique is silent about this. The conversation here is in a completely different, high register: this leather has already acquired its characteristic softness and gloss, saturated with the aromas of iris and saffron, and has ended up with the final buyer - some kind of Viscount de Sosisson.

Hyrax

Zoologist Perfumes

$145

for 60 ml

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The fragrances of the Canadian brand Zoologist are inspired by various animals, so the leather motif is one of the most popular in the line: it works as an anchor or is simply felt well in the fragrances Bat ("Bat"), Beaver ("Beaver"), Civet ("Civet"), Rhinoceros ("Rhino") and the new Tyrannosaurus Rex. And yet the clearest skin sounds in Hyrax, released six months ago. Translated from English, hyrax means "daman", or "fatty" - this is the name of an animal that looks like a marmot and a guinea pig at the same time, but by the will of fate placed in a much more exotic landscape: most hyraxes live just south of the Sahara. The petrified dung of the fattyak - hiraceum, also an African stone - is used in perfumery as a fragrant substance that has an earthy odor with animal and honey tones. Together with a tarry leather accord, elemi and hay absolute, it turns Hyrax into a slow-motion shot of the African savannah: fragrant dust swirls under the hooves of antelopes, dried grass waves in the wind, a milk elephant has stepped into its own overcooked breakfast.

Cuir

Mona di Orio

RUB 13 850

for 75 ml

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Cuir, like other smoked leathers in the spirit of Patchouli 24, Le Labo, or Lonestar Memories, Tauer Perfumes, is considered a leather for confident wearers. Probably for the reason that it does not fit into any of the leather profiles familiar to perfumery luxury - this is not a Bottega Veneta suede glove, not the insides of an expensive bag that Hermès and Tom Ford have taught us to, and not floral leather like the popular French Leather. Memo Paris. Cuir - "Brokeback Mountain": tobacco smoke, the smell of a fire, sweaty blanket, dusty boots and male kisses in the tent. In a word, the plot is about the same, only made with much greater taste than the original melodrama.

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