Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
We hope you have already break or forget all your New Year's promises, but if not, we also sincerely support you and wish you really start a new life. And our perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova shows seven fragrances that evoke associations with renewal - it's a pleasure to start with such only the new year.
for 100 ml
It is a pity that American perfumes Fresh are not sold in Russia, at least officially, they are not too expensive, good, and in some places even excellent perfumes in bottles resembling sake bottles (the brand also has a corresponding aroma, the best in the line). If you believe the site, the plot of the fragrance is as follows: you woke up at dawn, there is fog outside the window, a lake near the house - because the weekend is held somewhere in the wilderness, in nature, it is still cold, but you, such a fellow, thirst for movement and that's it go swimming anyway. Synopsis Fresh Life contains a dozen classic New Year's promises that have been fulfilled, and smells like an early morning of a happy person surrounded by beauty: magnolias, clear water, green grass and mosses.
Santa maria novella
for 100 ml
In nature, freesia is a fragrant African flower sometimes called "Cape lily of the valley" (although today it is mainly grown in the Netherlands). In perfumery - a universal abstract floral fill without characteristic odorants, something that brands like to list in a list of notes if there is nothing else to put in it. Schematically, the smell of freesia can be made with a couple of fragrant substances, which are already in any composition, that is, it turns out that speculative freesia is, as it were, everywhere.
A good example is the Fresia of the elderly Florentine manufactory Santa Maria Novella: do not write, does the marketer think that the cologne smells like a tile of cream Camay? In fact, there is nothing to be ashamed of: its classic floral-musky, delicate, enveloping fragrance is very good and for many people it evokes extremely pleasant memories - of childhood, when the world seemed so clean, new and full of treasures.
from 5175 rub.
for 60 ml
There are perfume brands that - knowingly or unintentionally, as a side effect - have been taking a scent inventory of reality for years. The first, for example, include Demeter, who appointed himself responsible for the inventory of all the scents of the world: the portfolio has already exceeded three hundred colognes with the smells of rain, mold, pizza, zombies, New Zealand beaches and other things, everyday and exotic.
The second group includes the big, and maybe the great, Estée Lauder brand, which until a certain time felt the historical moment so well that it released real milestone perfumes (in particular, Pleasures): today you can study the evolution of the American dream and the American character in the whole. In addition to its obvious beauty - in the end, the composition of 1978 was collected by the ingenious perfumer Sophia Groisman - White Linen is notable for the fact that it fits perfectly into the gallery of eternal American values with their seeming accessibility. He is right there, somewhere between the white tennis shorts, replicated postcards by Edward Hopper and the sea sunsets in the Hamptons, which effectively gilded everyone, but the local "old money" - especially. Most likely, White Linen was created primarily for rich women, those whose linen dresses never wrinkle, and silver does not grow cloudy, but in the end it became a bestseller for a whole generation. The reason is clear: aldehydic-floral, dense and crisp like a fresh shirt, a new banknote or an American beauty rose petal, White Linen smells of a bright future and a million possibilities.
Musk Eau de Parfum
14 400 rbl
for 100 ml
Musk is a re-release of the scent of the same name in 2004 in a higher concentration, which always means a new collection: indeed, Musk of 2018 is both bitter, greener, and angular than its predecessor fifteen years ago.The picture that comes to mind when you inhale this pure, bitter bouquet tugged from forest herbs is a white T-shirt with green spots of moss and sedge: it is good to lie on a surface that is not a chiropractor's table or a yoga mat, but also smells of rain and in the spring and does not require anything from you. Far from Etro's languid-oriental heritage, but very good.
Eau Simple de Concombre
RUB 11 800
for 100 ml
Phaedon is one of the lines of the perfumer Pierre Guillaume, the main multipurpose of today's niche and a big lover of T-shirts with a serious neckline. It is a little less popular than, say, Pierre Guillaume Paris (formerly Parfumerie Generale) and aquatic La Croisière, but at the same time very pretty and predictable in a good way, which is more likely a plus for modern perfumery: Rue de Lilas ("Lilac Street"), as the name suggests, smells of lilacs and a little rain, Lentisque ("Mastic tree") - the Mediterranean coast where mastic pistachio grows, Tabac Rouge ("Red tobacco") - a strong Egyptian hookah.
Plain Cucumber Water does smell like strong, crunchy cucumber, crushed mint and lemon, a classic set for refreshing water that is usually offered to spa goers. Suppose, not everyone spent their holidays in detox retreats, balneoclinics and other wonderful places for which there are no words in Russian, no money in the account - but with "Water" on your wrists it will seem that you were running somewhere nearby.
for 100 ml
Almost everyone loves perfumed figs, but the problem with it is that back in the mid-1990s, two ideal fragrances on this topic were released, Premier Figuer, L'Artisan Parfumeur (actually, the first fig fragrance in history), and Philosykos, Diptyque, both are by Olivia Giacobetti. Accordingly, for more than twenty years now, it is generally accepted that the genre cannot present anything new. On the one hand, those figs are really very good, on the other, the supply in the perfumery field has increased tenfold and many wonderful things are drowning in its mudflows: the Dirty Velvet tobacco-salted figs of the Swedish brand Vilhelm Parfumerie, Womanity of the Americans Mugler, Armani Privé Figuier Eden, Giorgio Armani - do you remember them?
Santorini from the exclusive Carven collection can also overwhelm with a wave of new releases: the new fragrance hit the store shelves during the holidays, when we smelled only our pillow, and meanwhile this is a wonderful fig - a ripe fig with a glass of almond milk in which we put a spoonful of honey, the smell of next summer.
for 50 ml
Before the New Year, the brand The Harmonist was brought to Russia, made by Lola Karimova-Tillyaeva, the daughter of the first president of Uzbekistan. One would think that the brand's perfumers have thrown their elbows into cumin, barberry and dried rose petals, but nothing like that: the brand has much more in common with the current geotag of the hostess, Los Angeles, than with its historical homeland. Sacred Water, for example, smells of salty air on the coast, the rubber of California bike paths, cocktail bitters and other signs of a life that you want to fly into for at least a couple of weeks.
PHOTOS: Sephora, Amazon, Perfume Empire, Essenza Nobile, fifi, Jane de Boy, The Harmonist