The most talked about beauty news In recent weeks, a male model has mysteriously disappeared from NYX Sugar Trip advertising materials. This caused a noticeable indignation among Russian beauty bloggers and fans of the brand. Understanding why Russian brand divisions are wary of painted men, while head office workers are struggling to increase the popularity of men's makeup.
Text: Moore Soboleva, Margarita Virova
To promote the next colorful collection of the NYX Cosmetics brand called Sugar Trip, the brand has assembled a team of quite popular American bloggers, including, for example, Kimberly Margarita and C.C. Clark. Images of the six campaign heroes are on the palettes and in all the promotional materials of the collection, but the photos of Wesley Benjamin Carter, the only man to join the Sugar Squad, have been carefully removed from the Russian posters. A photo of the corrected poster appeared in the Instagram stories of beauty blogger Polina Petrova, after which it was scattered on Twitter and Facebook. As a result, the screenshot was published by Carter himself - the adventures of the campaign in Russia also upset the blogger.
Makeup artist Lena Igradi says that this is not the first time she has met such an adaptation of advertising: “The first time I saw a poster adjusted for the domestic market in MAC Pro - then a joint collection with the design duo The Blonds appeared on sale. There was a logo strewn with rhinestones on the stand, but the photo with David and Phillip seemed to be accidentally lost during printing. But you really need to guess about such nuances: if I hadn't gotten into a conversation with a makeup artist at the stand, I would not have learned that the collection is presented in a completely different way in American corners. Now, on the Russian website MAC Cosmetics, you can see the very promo photo that did not make it to the stands. That is, it seems that the restrictions apply only to outdoor advertising. But this experience piqued my sports interest: how many more posters of international brands have been changed and how strict are the requirements for them? " Often, such “risky” campaigns and collections simply do not reach Russia: for example, last year, the Lush Merry DRAGmas Christmas collection, together with the advertising for which the participants of “RuPaul’s Drag Race” starred, passed our country.
Social media users who are familiar with the peculiarities of the work of large concerns noted that it is difficult to accuse the Russian NYX team of being headstrong: at every stage, all advertising materials and campaign methods are coordinated with the head office. Many, in particular, felt that the decision to remove Carter from the posters was an attempt to avoid an administrative fine under the "propaganda of non-traditional sexual relations" law.
"Propaganda" is an administrative offense (article 6.21 of the Administrative Code) and is punished, as a rule, by a fine of four to five thousand rubles for citizens and forty to fifty thousand rubles for officials. If such information (“aimed at the formation of non-traditional sexual attitudes in minors”) is disseminated via the Internet and the media, then heightened administrative responsibility may arise - a fine of one million rubles is provided for legal entities.
every year they become more and more ambassadors
brands - and among popular bloggers there are a lot of guys even
It is obvious that advertising with painted male models is not necessarily addressed to homosexual people, and the very rule of the law is vague and, most importantly, discriminatory. “To begin with, this law is not legal - that is, it does not meet the requirements of human rights,” recalls Maxim Olenichev, legal adviser to the Vyhod LGBT initiative group.- Last year, the European Court of Human Rights decided that the law does not meet the requirements of the Convention and Russia should take measures to amend or repeal it. So far Russia has not complied with the court ruling”. But even if one thinks in the inverted logic of the “propaganda law”, brands can refer to the 2015 Constitutional Court ruling - it calls for considering “propaganda” not informing, but “imposing a certain way of life”.
One way or another, the beauty industry is not yet the main target of the norm: the bans are more likely aimed at public LGBT events and political blockages on the Internet. The situation with painted male models is more like an act of self-censorship, says Maxim Olenichev. Blogger, makeup artist and SMM specialist Mila Bulatova agrees with him: “Obviously, this is a decision of the local team, albeit coordinated with the head office,” she says about the NYX case. - Perhaps, with the arguments “we have such laws there, you don't want the brand to have problems”. But the poster could have been marked with the mark “18+” or found other loopholes in the regulations, which the concern's lawyers are likely to understand."
The Code of Conduct for L'Oréal, which owns the NYX brand, states that a team must "pay attention to the reactions of religious, ethnic, cultural and community groups." But even non-revolutionary beauty practices can offend the feelings of people who insist on an ascetic attitude towards their own appearance and call to be "closer to nature."
Mila Bulatova is sure that the decision to go or not go to such manifesto campaigns depends only on the wishes of the brand team: other brands represented in Russia that broadcast values similar to NYX Professional Makeup have significant deviations from the guidelines of global offices (such as changes official poster) is almost impossible to find. “I am sad that the brand of truly affordable cosmetics, believing in 'makeup for everyone' and objectively having media power and the ability to influence public opinion, decided to sit out in the closet, hiding behind an article that has never been applied to either the brand or the retailer. ", - sums up the expert.
It even goes
not about the fear of the law, but about trying to defend yourself
and not to lose customers
in the regions
Russian representatives of the brand refused official comments, but our interlocutors in the beauty market are inclined to the version that this is not even a fear of the law, but an attempt to protect against homophobia and not lose customers in the regions. It is difficult to imagine a man wearing makeup even on the banners of shopping centers in a relatively liberated capital, let alone the situation in traditionalist republics. “We are walking around TSUM and GUM in Moscow, and the brand has to think that such a poster can hang in Dagestan or Chechnya, where gay guys for orientation can be physically destroyed,” explains Liza Voskresenskaya, journalist, marketer. former press officer for Chanel. “Perhaps the brand thought about them, because it is impossible to have two posters (one for Moscow, the other for Grozny).”
The reaction of the majority of Russian society to an unexpected meeting with the image of a man wearing makeup today will most likely be negative. But the situation in the advertising market is changing so rapidly that Russia simply cannot remain on the sidelines of global trends, our interlocutors agree. Every year, male bloggers increasingly become ambassadors of not only indie brands: James Charles seems to be collaborating with all possible American brands, starting with CoverGirl, and Manny Gutierrez became the ambassador of Maybelline, veterans of the mass-market cosmetic, Chanel and Guerlain create collections of unisex makeup, and among the popular bloggers there are a lot of guys even in Russia - the same Andrey Petrov and Gevorg have gained considerable popularity among the Internet audience.
“Recently Andrey Petrov visited Chelyabinsk at the invitation of a local cosmetic chain,” says Liza Voskresenskaya. - A crowd of girls ran after him and, by the way, the guys - not in Moscow, but in Chelyabinsk. There are many people in Russia who appreciate what Andrei is and what he is. In St. Petersburg, I personally attended the meeting of subscribers with Andrei, which was arranged in L'Etoile. People were almost hanging on the lamp."
It is not excluded that the brand management of brands that overwrite painted men on posters in Russia is simply being cautious. But there is a chance that very soon it will become a way for them not to save, but to quickly lose fans. And so many people think today - just look at how the representatives of "heavy" luxury succeed in advertising a make-up for men.
PHOTOS: Mac-cosmetics, Lush USA, NYX, instagram / wesleybenjamincarter