Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
The rose continues to remain the most popular perfume flower - and deservedly so: thanks to the talents of perfumers, we can get acquainted with hundreds of different shades of her scent. A bouquet of the freshest and most ringing roses, which are pleasant to add to the collection in spring, was collected by our perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova.
for 30 ml
The name of these perfumes is consonant with English easy, “easy” for a reason - such a rose, fresh and green, extremely far from the boudoir role, in which neighbors in the genre have been working for decades, is really very easy to wear. Sisley is usually expected to have more weighty things (mostly wrapped in a dusty curtain of chypre), but here, as Monty Python sketches said, something completely different - a transparent pinkish curtain, which is dashingly fluttering in the damp March wind.
Roses et Reines
for 75 ml
The L'Occitane line is full of good roses: Arlésienne fondant-powder, Cassis Rhubarbe dessert, photoreal Rose and so on. Not everyone reaches Russia, but the happily-made Roses et Reines has been on the local bestseller list for years - because there can be only two better than one beautiful rose. In "Queens" it is a Damask rose and a May rose, two different profiles - together they create the illusion of a living flower with all its herbaceous, spicy and powdery tones. If you want a rose that seems to have gone out onto a terrace somewhere in Provence and fell face down in the bushes, then here it is.
for 100 ml
Yves Rocher's perfume portfolio is a bottomless storehouse of good and cheap perfumes: the Secret d'Essences line alone, which is more expensive than the main collection, but still very affordable, contains many treasures - from crystal Neroli to Rose Oud by Annick Menardo. Rose Fraîche, that is, "Fresh Rose", was raised by another star of perfumery - Shyamala Mesondier, who collected the dead Charogne, Etat Libre d'Orange. This rose, however, is quite alive - dewy, cool, as if bitten by the last night frosts. Reminds of the iconic Paul Smith Rose, Paul Smith, long out of production.
Grace by Grace Coddington
Comme des Garçons
for 100 ml
There is such a fragrant genre - dirty roses. The word "dirty" in this context hints at the surroundings of the title component: patchouli, earthy notes, cumin, costus and other things that can be attributed to the conditional bodily bottom in perfumery. There are, on the contrary, soap roses - light, washed to a squeak, with a recognizable synthetic tone of purity. Grace - sterile, with a green tint of mint and basil, not yet completely thawed after cryo-storage, is their queen: spring has come, it's time to get biomaterials from liquid nitrogen and fill the planet with perfect flowers.
Bergamote & Rose Sauvage
for 50 ml
Brand 100Bon - from the French sent bon, “smells good” - completely natural, inexpensive and conscientious (they suggest going to the store for refills). The compositions for the Sanbons were collected by the Robertet company, which ate an organic dog in the production of natural aroma products, and it turned out very well - a kind of Hermessence for those who save money. This rose, unfortunately, will not replace Hermes's Rose Ikebana (for this there is already In Love Again, YSL), but it is still good - watercolor, well-mannered, with a beautiful and noble tone of Earl Gray tea, which is so pleasant to drink at yourself in the office in the morning.
Le couvent des minimes
for 100 ml
“Spirits should not scream, but whisper,” - no, no, some timid Fragrantica user, traumatized by loud modern spirits, will complain. The good news is that there are more and more niche brands that appear as if to counterbalance perfume chants - and Le Couvent des Minimes is almost the main quiet man. He is supposed to: after all, in a monastery - and this is how the name of the brand is translated from French - it is not accepted to speak loudly. Therefore, even the geranium, which the roses are "lined with" in this transparent column, is quiet and anemic here - just a green shadow on the rose petals.
PHOTOS: shop.rivegauche, amazon, wildberries, libertylondon, 1parfume, lecouventdesminimes