Employee Turnover: Closed Brands We Are Missing

Style 2023

Table of contents:

Employee Turnover: Closed Brands We Are Missing
Employee Turnover: Closed Brands We Are Missing

Video: Employee Turnover: Closed Brands We Are Missing

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Reducing Employee Turnover 2023, January
Anonim

Fashion is cyclical, but not forever: the best fashion houses are closing, and the most successful brands are turning into dummies, left without a sensible designer at the head. So, in 2018, the Americans announced Creatures of Comfort and the mass market Cheap Monday about their closure. We asked those interested in fashion to recall other brands that they are sad about the loss of.

Interview: Tanya Reshetnik

Image
Image

Lena Kamai

founder of "Lambada Market"

Image
Image

I will definitely miss the Creatures of Comfort. They closed on New Year's Eve: in a series of festive events, I missed both an ad on Instagram and an unreal sale on the site. Not seeing them at the New York Fashion Week shows, I was a little surprised, and in March I was frustrated as hell not finding the brand in online stores.

This closure has both bitterness and beauty at the same time. This decision seems to me honest: you just stop the frantic circle of shows, collections, supplies and sales - it doesn't matter, due to the changed marital status, fatigue or the feeling “I did everything and I have nothing to add”.

It is no secret that every year in the fashion business the production cycle is accelerating, and even such “slow” brands as Creatures of Comfort got stuck in it. It must be that one day fashion simply ceases to be a pleasure and becomes a duty, which can greatly frustrate the founder. And not everyone chooses commerce at this moment. After a quick look at the instagram of Jade Lai, founder of Creatures of Comfort, it becomes clear that she found her "safe haven" in motherhood. I respect this decision - as well as deeply respect the founder of the legendary Parisian Collette, who closed the store and quietly retired without selling the stronghold of alternative fashion to a luxury monopolist.

I love young American brands for their lightness, 60s and 70s flair, slow fashion concept and local production. This is what was important to me in Creatures of Comfort. This is not to say that they opened the "glove shoes", as Martiniano did, or reinvented strappy sandals, like Maryam Nassir Zadeh, or reinvented California jeans in honor of their own mother, like Jesse Kamm. Creatures of Comfort took a little bit of everything from everywhere, altering the models in their own way. There was nothing innovative in this, and it was not necessary. In all things, there was rather a pleasant spirit of freedom, adventure, otherness and "sexuality without a hint of sexuality."

Dasha Petrova

Buyer of Ostrov store

Image
Image

I love the aesthetics of the late 80s and early 90s, even though my youth was in the 2000s. It is always interesting to look into the recent past - in this I am often helped by my older friends and colleagues who introduce me to the art and fashion of the end of the last century. One of the iconic brands of the 90s was definitely the Japanese Goodenough, which became a success thanks to the efforts of its creator.

Hiroshi Fujiwara moved to Tokyo in his youth, and in the early 80s went on a big trip to America. He brought hip-hop from the USA, becoming one of the first independent DJs in the country. Hiroshi took part in the development of Nike's HTM division, but most importantly, he created his Goodenough brand, the strategy of which was similar to today's "drops": all items were produced in limited quantities to maintain a sense of uniqueness. Now Hiroshi is focused on the fragment project - it is rather not an independent brand, but a team that helps big brands to come up with unusual things.

I like the approach of Asian brands to creating clothes, their commitment to the concept of slow fashion. Unfortunately, buying things from Japan is quite problematic, but I enjoy looking at Visvim and The North Face Purple Label.

I think that in any brand there should be changes with each new season: stagnation is a path to loss of audience, closure or absorption by the fashion giant (as LVMH does). I try not to get attached to certain brands.Rather, I miss the meaningful stories that few people can tell right now in their pursuit of influencers and reach.

Katya Slyadneva

blogger

Image
Image

I am terribly sad about the closing of Cheap Monday. When the brand was at the peak of its popularity, I lived in Orenburg, money was tight, fashionable things could be ordered on the Internet, and only wealthy digital gurus could do this. Then, already in Moscow, I sometimes went to take a look at the brand's corner in Tsvetnoy and try on jeans. Then it turned out that Cheap Monday things fit perfectly on me - they were comfortable and cool.

It was not the brand that closed for me, but a whole era when skinny jeans-tights could cut off troubles in the backyard of a provincial city. Somehow it happened that I still dress this way, so I quietly buy at ASOS the remnants of the discount collections (T-shirts for a thousand, slip dresses for a thousand and two hundred), so as not to suffer so much.

I'll die if Vans closes - I hope it never happens! - because it was from the same area of ​​"postpone the scholarship for sneakers."

Ksenia Shabalina

founder of Place ddmm

Image
Image

I guess I can miss the inspiration or the sense of belonging to the art that some brand gave. The Russians lack the Homo Consommatus, which the current Vatnique team made. The brand exists, but has stopped the seasonal release of collections, took a break and is waiting for the right place and time. Their courage struck from the very first collection in 2012. This is not shocking, but a deep search and a strong personal story. This is sorely lacking in fashion.

Ekaterina Dementieva

editor-in-chief of the Yandex content service and co-founder of the Psycho Daily channel

Image
Image

I have reached such an approach to clothing that even if all stores in the world close except for COS, adidas and Uniqlo, I will not notice it. But it's a little sad without American Apparel - where the small assortment never changed, but you could always find three good swimsuits and three good leggings. He was like an automaton with lenses: there is not much of everything, but everything is only necessary.

When news of American Apparel's bankruptcy hit in 2015, I went to Berlin and bought ten leggings. Then they announced the final liquidation of the goods in California, and my friend Nastya Shvetsova was forced to drag me five more from San Francisco. Then, just in case, I bought five more on Amazon. And now I almost own an American Apparel store.

Ekaterina Pavelko

curator of the Fashion direction of the School of Design, Higher School of Economics

Image
Image

Miss Martin Margiela Maison Margiela. The great designer who defined everything that fashion lives today. Judging by the number of exhibitions dedicated to him (at the Galliera Museum in Paris, MOMU in Antwerp), he will have a huge impact for a long time to come. His collections can be disassembled into techniques - deconstruction, oversize - but there was always a cool idea behind the technique, and the thing was its perfect conceptual embodiment. This was incredible beauty and boldness - these clothes have not lost their relevance for decades.

I respect the work of John Galliano, he competently relies on the DNA of the brand and all those proprietary techniques, but for me the magic has passed and the sight of things from the new collections does not take your breath away.

Bogdan Maksimenko

journalist, founder of the antihipstaswag telegram channel

Image
Image

I miss Shane Oliver's Hood By Air brand. In 2017, he announced the suspension of the project, and at the end of February 2019, news of the restart appeared. Hood By Air has been on all the fashion radars along with Pyrex Vision, KTZ (Kokon To Zai), Nasir Mazhar and Marcelo Burlon. All their collections were united by an abundance of logos, prints and inscriptions all over the back.

In 2012-2013, street culture flourished and streetwear was actively emerging as a niche for young designers and as a growing segment for buyers. Shane's HBA was the most interesting of the above brands for me. For a long time he continued to produce T-shirts and sweatshirts with a logo, which were in great demand, but with the development of the brand, he began to give a sparkle and took a step further than the rest.

Hood By Air's collections contained a lot of grotesque, fetish, and in some places absurd. Oliver let out models with stockings on their faces on the catwalks, shackled their hands.And the show, in which the models paraded with an object in their mouths, decorated with pearls and rhinestones and vaguely reminiscent of a retractor from a dentist's office, is probably remembered by many. In short, I amuse myself as my heart desires. Shane provoked the audience in a measured manner, while not going headlong into outright trash. Hopefully the return of Shane Oliver's Hood By Air will be just as exciting.

On the other hand, it seemed that with the departure of Stefano Pilati from YSL, Albert Elbaz from Lanvin, Consuelo Castiglioni from Marni and Phoebe Filo from Celine, the world would not be the same. But, as time has shown, there are no irreplaceable people in the fashion industry. Personnel turnover is a new reality that we are used to, and the number of new and cool brands is constantly increasing. One has only to choose new favorites and feel nostalgic for the favorite fashion veterans.

Natasha Dogadina

owner of Rehab Shop

Image
Image

When Boy by Band of Outsiders announced they would be discontinuing production, it was a shame. They made great suits and great quality shirts that fit perfectly - this "masculine" style for women - and also dresses and skirts from the Girl series. Both we, the Rehab team, and our customers have long remembered Band of Outsiders.

In general, now the choice of brands is so wide that the hackneyed phrase "there are no irreplaceable" is suitable here. But I'm very interested in what she will do and where Phoebe Fileo will end up. Her take on women's clothing is really missing. She perfectly felt the time, understood the desires and expectations of a modern woman from clothes.

Olya Austreich

artist

Image
Image

The merry Britons Meadham Kirchhoff are sorely lacking. Designers who did not follow trends, but completely immersed themselves in their ideas and only then thought about how it could be implemented and reproduced in thousands of copies. It seems that this killed them. No one has occupied the Meadham Kirchhoff niche, at least at the quality level, so fashion expression has to be found in small Instagram accounts of local brands. Their collaboration with Topshop was a salvation for me, because the prices at Meadham Kirchhoff were exorbitant. I still really appreciate my archive and periodically look at depop - it seems this is the only place where you can still buy them.

I also recall with nostalgia the collaboration New Look x Lily Allen, which came out in 2007, at the peak of the singer's career. There were only six dresses and accessories in the collection that copied her corporate identity from the videos "Smile" and "LDN". For me as a fan, it was incredibly cool. Now I have only one dress in the style of a prom dress. It's a shame that this was a collaboration with New Look, and not with someone else, because the quality of things left much to be desired. From what could hypothetically close, I would have missed the collaboration of JW Anderson x Uniqlo - they managed to create the perfect balance of price and quality.

Ekaterina Yarmakhova

PR specialist

Image
Image

I am not very attached to things and very rarely suffer from a closure of a brand or a change of designer, but there are two brands that are nostalgic.

Firstly, this is Jil Sander by Raf Simons - his heyday fell on my university years and the very first job in my life, in the editorial office of vogue.ru. Largely thanks to these collections, I fell in love with the industry as a whole. This was the only period in my life when I saved up money for specific items of clothing. I still keep them: a silk blouse that anticipated what Raf did later in Dior (where I later went to work because of him), a plastic bag, which then caused a lot of questions from fellow students, my favorite shoes, which I still wear., and so on. I remember well how my beloved colleague Anya Orlova and I unpacked the Jil Sander box with ideal Chelsea, which I then brought to a completely shameful look - Anya now also has completely different interests and values, but then it was really important for us.

The second case is the Kitsuné brand, which I was lucky to work with. Officially, of course, they still exist and still remain quite charming, but then the guys were not only stars, but also heroes that were sorely lacking: funny, ironic, spreading their taste to all areas of their life - from music to coffee - through clothes.

At a time when the industry as a whole was much more closed and "adult", they were, pardon the cliché, a breath of fresh air.Anya Dyulgerova and I brought the guys to Moscow to launch a special collection for the Tsvetnoy department store, which we worked with at the time, and organized a party with them at Simachev, played by Gildas, co-founder of Kitsuné and producer of Daft Punk. It was one of the funniest and most drunken bar parties of the period.

Maria Kitaeva

co-founder of Parcel store

Image
Image

In my opinion, there is not a single brand that I or the world lacks. I work with a huge number of brands every day and see how rapidly they can grow and how sometimes interest in them falls. It seems to me that this is absolutely normal.

A brand is, first of all, living people who at first delightfully create together something that they really believe in. Sometimes their views and aspirations diverge, and it seems to me the most correct and honest to bow to clients, close the doors and go to create something else. With such an overproduction as on our planet, it is sometimes good for everyone to take a break.

PHOTOS: Cheap Monday / Re: Textile, Creatures of Comfort

Popular by topic