About what they really mean under the word "cellulite" and why it is pointless to fight with it, we have already told. Over the years of the existence of the myth that there should be no bumps on the hips and buttocks, the beauty industry has given birth to dozens of products and services, supposedly capable of ridding customers of that very cellulite. Understanding how pepper and caffeine products actually work and whether you should trust them.
Text: Christina Farberova, author
telegram channel "Chris prints"
In medicine, the term "cellulite" does not mean bumps on the thighs at all. Cellulitis (cellulitis) is an acute inflammatory disease in which microorganisms penetrate through damaged fatty tissue. A common cosmetic "problem" is called gynoid lipodystrophy. Normally, fat cells are small and surrounded by connective tissue. With lipodystrophy, fat cells grow, connective tissues lose their elasticity, and in the area with so-called cellulite, lymphatic and blood flow are disturbed.
But this diagnosis is rarely found in scientific journals and medical records. The fact is that gynoid lipodystrophy is not included in the international classification of diseases ICD-11, and doctors have long doubted that the notorious cellulite is ordinary adipose tissue. For example, a small study compared two types of adipose tissue, with and without cellulite, using sonograms and biopsies. Actually, only a slight discontinuity and unevenness was found, but there is no difference in blood flow or morphology of the tissue itself.
This, of course, does not stop the anti-cellulite care industry from thriving and developing. A glossy myth is firmly rooted in the mind of a person: what we call cellulite is an ailment that needs to be eliminated, therefore wraps, warming creams and scrubs are still popular.
Anti-cellulite creams and warming oils
The main components of anti-cellulite and warming creams are caffeine, carnitine, essential oils, horse chestnut extract, ginkgo biloba. They are often recommended by cosmetologists and massage therapists because they "break down adipose tissue" and "speed up the metabolism." This is not entirely true. Caffeine, for example, can temporarily speed up your metabolism and speed up your blood when you ingest it. But there is no scientific research to prove that when applied, it will penetrate the skin and melt the fatty tissue. What's more, if the caffeinated product did deliver it that deeply, it probably wouldn't be sold in a cosmetics store, but rather a prescription drug.
“The upper layers of the skin are impervious to most cosmetic components,” says chemical technologist Yulia Avdeeva. - Only conductors - essential oils and liposomal complexes - can drag something inside. What does it mean? For example, your anti-cellulite cream contains some substance that can burn fat, and conductors that can carry this substance to the adipose tissue. You rub the cream into your thigh, and the substance, with the help of conductors, tries to penetrate the stratum corneum and dissolve in the subcutaneous fat. Question: how much substance will penetrate into subcutaneous fat? How will it be distributed there? And how actively is it capable of burning it”?
In the case of anti-cellulite creams, it is possible that the active substance will simply accumulate in the adipose tissue and then be excreted from the body. There are no studies and confirmed scientific data on this topic. There are no standardized methods for measuring cellulite either, making it difficult to determine whether an improvement has actually occurred.
Rubbing with scrubs and dry brushes
Another common way to combat orange peel is mechanical exfoliation.As a rule, the same warming components are put into scrubs: extracts of pepper, cinnamon, mustard and ginger. They also do not penetrate anywhere - they only increase the vibration frequency of the molecules, forcing them to move faster, due to which the skin is heated. Yes, you can get the effect of hot skin from such rubbing, but physically there is no benefit from it. “Warming creams affect only the microcirculation of blood in the area to which they are applied,” explains cosmetic chemist, co-founder of the Innskin.pro brand Victoria Sharapova. "And if a person has a tendency to dilate veins or varicose veins, warming agents are contraindicated."
Abrasive particles in anti-cellulite scrubs are often large and sharp - this effect stimulates blood circulation in the skin and leads to the same smoothing effect. Rubbing with dry brushes works the same way (although this method is also quite painful). It is important to understand that the effect of all these procedures remains superficial - no external cosmetic product can directly affect the adipose tissue and its structure.
Most anti-cellulite creams also have a warming or tingling effect. These properties of cosmetic products affect primarily psychologically: the consumer should think that if the product bakes so much during use, it means that it works, and the fat burns out. In addition, when the heating (or, in rare cases, cooling) effect is really pronounced, the skin turns red and slightly swells. Thanks to this, it looks smooth and hides the tuberosity of the subcutaneous adipose tissue underneath. But this is definitely a temporary effect.
Surprisingly, a component banned in Russia and allowed in the United States can be effective in this case. No, he, of course, does not penetrate the adipose tissue and does not put things in order there. But tretinoin is currently the only substance that can increase the thickness of the epidermis. And a thicker layer of skin, in turn, makes the tubercles of the fatty tissue less noticeable.
But again, linoid lipodystrophy is normal for the human body. Fighting it is like fighting the presence of adipose tissue as such. If you really need to get the effect of smoother skin right now, you can resort to warming agents, scrubs and wraps as a temporary cosmetic trick, but the result will only last as long as you use it all regularly.
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