In the heading "Analysis of the composition" journalist Kristina Farberova and cosmetic chemist-technologist Yulia Ageeva analyze the compositions of popular products. In the first edition - CeraVe Cleansing Cream Gel for dry and normal skin.
Text: Christina Farberova, author
telegram channel "Chris prints"
Cerave cleansing gel cream
for dry and normal skin
composition (European market): Aqua / Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Peg-40 Stearate, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Ceramic Phosphate, NPylide Sodium Ceramide Phosphate, NPylide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Tocopherol, Ceramide EOP
In 2005, L'Oréal's CeraVe brand launched a cosmetic line with a complex of ceramides, fatty acids and other lipids that restore and strengthen the skin's natural barrier. The compositions of the products produced for the markets of Western and Eastern Europe (and therefore for Russia) differ from those for the USA, and this raises a lot of questions from users. But there is no secret here: the differences are related to the peculiarities of the certification and customs legislation of different countries. “We change labels and packaging depending on the countries in which we operate,” says the CeraVe website. "The level of ceramides in all formulas is the same, but they can be listed in a different order."
CeraVe cream-gel is based on the usual water, usually seventy percent of the composition is allocated to it. In the second position is glycerin (glycerin), a moisturizing component. The third is cetearyl alcohol, thickener, viscosity regulator and emulsifier. It performs several functions at once: it maintains the emulsion in a stable state so that it does not delaminate and does not change color, and forms the texture that the manufacturer originally conceived - liquid, creamy. Next comes the preservative phenoxyethanol - it works as a preservative and is responsible for the stability of the formula: it does not allow microbes, mold and yeast to appear in the mass. In addition to it, the composition contains ethylhexylglycerin (ethylhexylglycerin) - a solvent, preservative enhancer. Typically, these two components go together. No more than one percent of phenoxyethanol is added to the formula, and ethylhexylglycerol is added to make it work better. “After parabens, these are the most effective and non-aggressive preservatives,” says Yulia Ageeva. - But you need to be prepared right away that the conditional Ecogolic site will give them a low rating, because these are synthetic ingredients. In the American version of the cream gel, methyl and propylparaben act as preservatives. Europe and America have different legal norms, therefore the CeraVe products that we buy in Russia do not contain parabens - they are replaced by phenoxyethanol."
Cetearyl alcohol, peg-40 stearate, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate are thickeners and emulsifiers, essential components for any cosmetic product. A cosmetic cream is an emulsion consisting of two phases, water and fat. However, fat and water are not capable of mixing, forming a single mass, therefore they need emulsifiers and thickeners. “Peg-40 stearate, polysorbate 20 also play the role of surfactants - components that are needed to effectively wash away dirt, sweat, and makeup residues from the skin,” adds Julia.
What is at the end of the list does not always deceive the consumer's expectations - for example, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is introduced into the formulation to a concentration of one to five tenths of a percent, and sodium acetylated hyaluronate is even less - from one hundredth to one tenth of a percent and this is the recommended percentage of ingredients in the formula. The same story is with ceramides in the CeraVe cream-gel - according to the standards, they should be less than one percent.
Ceramides are lipids that are naturally found in the skin and are required to maintain the lipid barrier and retain moisture. The last line of the cream gel contains a complex of ceramides for moisturizing, fatty acids and an anti-wrinkle asset: sodium lauroyl lactylate, ceramide NP (ceramide NP), ceramide AP (ceramide AP), phytosphingosine, cholesterol (cholesterol), xanthan gum (xanthan gum), ceramide EOP (ceramide EOP). The European composition of ceramides does not differ from the American one - the only difference is in the way to name the chemical compound.
“Another difference between the European version of the cream-gel and the American one is that the composition does not contain hyaluronic acid, but its salts (sodium hyaluronate),” says Ageeva. - And this is good. The hyaluronic acid salt has a smaller molecule size, which allows it to better penetrate the skin.Moreover, salts can also be conductors for other substances."
On the last lines of the formula - carbomer, works as a thickener and gelling agent, it is used to create a lighter texture. Tocopherol, a form of vitamin E, acts as an antioxidant, while potassium phosphate is a pH regulator. Behentrimonium methosulfate is used to soften and condition the skin, dipotassium phosphate and disodium EDTA allow better rinsing of substances from the surface.
“A good cosmetic product,” sums up Yulia Ageeva. The complex of ceramides will work even in scanty concentrations, the complex of lipophilic emulsifiers will help remove makeup and not dry out the skin. Easy to rinse off as it contains peg-40 stearate and polysorbate 20”.