Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
Fruity aromas, like floral ones, often considered a popular genre of perfumery - the shelves of large chain stores are really littered with pears and pineapples in a variety of environments. But this does not mean that only sugary smoothies are poured into all the bottles: our perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova chose seven bright and unusual fruit aromas.
I am Trash
Etat Libre d'Orange
RUB 11,900
for 100 ml
Last spring, the French brand Etat Libre d'Orange released I Am Trash: Les Fleurs de Déchet (“I am garbage: flowers of waste”), and it was recently brought to Russia. The minute-long video, shot by Ogilvy Paris in support of the campaign, supposedly celebrates decay and decay: in a spectacular rapid, roses dry up, oranges mold, and earthworms swarm among the elegant, Michelin-starred tops. Everything is so beautiful that it is immediately clear - they will not give real rot, as, for example, in Bat, Zoologist, smelling of a damp cave with overripe fruits. They will give something else - the eternal glow of immortal green apples from the supermarket, those that almost never decompose. Beautiful and deliberately artificial.
Arielle shoshana saturday
Arielle shoshana
$125
for 100 ml
A great rarity is an excellent perfumery passion fruit. Everything is good in passionflower: both flowers and fruits, which, unlike the former, have a strong recognizable aroma. It is not easy to translate it into perfumery language, but Cecile Hua did it: "Saturday" smells like a sweet-sour, slightly sulphurous heart of passionfruit, sprinkled with salt - this is how it is eaten in East Africa.
Para_Iso
Nomenclature
from 6752 rub.
for 50 ml
Para_Iso is the latest fragrance from New York-based Nomenclature, whose compositions, like Geza Shona's work for Escentric Molecules, are built around high doses of synthetic materials. The name of the perfume is translated from Spanish as “paradise”, and birds of paradise from the paintings of Martin Hid flutter on the box - of course, you are waiting for some kind of fruit. Either apples, with which Eden is most often associated in the Christian tradition, or drunken pineapples from the beach pinacolada - on the eve of the May holidays, one can believe more in the earthly paradise. But instead of apples and fruit cocktails, they offer an excellent quince - not sweet and marmalade, as in the gourmet Dolce Amalfi, Xerjoff Casamorati, but sour and tart, in a rosette of green leaves, with a stalk that smells piercingly in the southern summer.
Pacific lime
Atelier Cologne
from 4802 rub.
for 30 ml
Kevin, a columnist for the perfume blog Now Smell This, in his review of the latest French fragrance Atelier Cologne points out very accurately that Pacific Lime would fit into Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line - as it was before Thierry Wasser, the head perfumer of the house, ascended to the Iron Throne of Guerlain. With his arrival, it was as if all the warmth and fun had been pumped out of "Waters" - take at least the completely joyless Limon Verde and Rosa Pop grown in the dungeons of Azkaban. Pacific Lime, on the other hand, is both ringing and complex, like the first editions of Aqua Allegoria: lime with coconut, spicy greens and guava, multicolored, iridescent and fluid, like the surface of a soap bubble. Perfectly.
Fruttissimo Thai Smoothie
Brocard
124 RUB
for 30 ml
Please note: the Fruttissimo line has a very nice, bitter-sour Pamplorose grapefruit and a nice peach grafted into a green apricot - Peachy Sky. With both you want to take a shower, but with Thai Smoothie - a rather toothy pineapple, whose bite has been slightly soothed with coconut milk - you can live, especially in summer. "Escada on minimal", as it was certified by users of the Fragrantica perfume forum.
Replica Underthe Lemon Trees
Maison margiela
7956 RUB
for 100 ml
Under the Lemon Trees was released together with another novelty, the "library" Whispers in the Library, and, most likely, will be devoured by it: the story of that one is more spectacular, the tone is more academic, and the drunken cognac chord at the tops is really very good. The only thing that can save the "Lemon" - a quick heat, which will decorate him exclusively (and he is hers). In a cool spring, "Lemon", green, bitter and rough, like the peel of the fruit of the same name, does not reach into the nose at all, but in the summer it will cover both you and that guy with its speckled, emerald shadow.
Aqua allegoria pera granita
Guerlain
from 4515 rub.
for 75 ml
Not all modern "Allegories" are bad: more recently, the lineup includes worthy Ginger Piccante and Coconut Fizz, ginger and coconut, respectively. “And he seems to have pulled himself together,” writes Luca Turin of Thierry Wasser in his new “Perfume Guide” and gives a good assessment of the slightly earlier Pera Granita. The name is a false friend of the translator: no pomegranates were harmed during the production of perfumes, in the main role is an ice-cold, lemon-sprinkled pear, which is so easy to love. Especially if the room is with a sea view
PHOTOS: cosmotheca, Fragrantica, Rive Gauche (1, 2), Sephora (1, 2), Beauty Depot