Gentle Effect: Which Skin Is Suitable For Cosmetics With PHA Acids

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Gentle Effect: Which Skin Is Suitable For Cosmetics With PHA Acids
Gentle Effect: Which Skin Is Suitable For Cosmetics With PHA Acids
Video: Gentle Effect: Which Skin Is Suitable For Cosmetics With PHA Acids
Video: Best Gentle + Non-Irritating AHA, BHA \u0026 PHA for Clear Skin: ALL Skin Types! 2023, February

text: Daria Burkova

If you are immersed in the topic of skin care, then you are exactly aware of the boom in cosmetics with acids, you know the difference between AHA- and BHA-acids, and even managed to try a dozen products. Toners, masks, serums and creams with AHA help dead cells exfoliate faster, fight pigmentation and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, structural proteins responsible for firmness.

Alas, such remedies are not suitable for everyone - in particular, for people with sensitive, atopic and couperose-prone skin. In general, anyone can overdo it: too high concentrations of active substances or their too frequent use can make the skin more capricious. If you are forced to give up peels and start restoring the protective barrier, perhaps products with a new group of acids - polyhydroxy acids PHA - are suitable for you. Previously, they were found only in combination products with AHA and BHA, and now they also act as solo ingredients.

What is PHA

CosRX PHA Moisture Renewal Power Cream
Exuviance Moisture Balance Toner

PHA is a new family of acids that was previously considered not a separate group, but a variety of AHA acids or even a new generation of AHA acids. Some experts still do not distinguish between alpha and polyhydroxy acids, but for cosmetic purposes this is not so important. “What you need to know is that the action of PHA is really very similar to AHA: they accelerate skin regeneration, stimulate the exfoliation of the stratum corneum, are considered a good therapy for photoaging and work with the surface pigment of the skin,” says Marina Kulbaeva, physician dermatologist at the Remedy Lab clinic.

The difference from AHA is that PHA has very large molecules that do not penetrate deeply and work only on the surface of the stratum corneum. Their effect is more delicate and at the same time not so deep, therefore products with PHA are safe for sensitive, reactive, atopic and skin with rosacea. In addition, polyhydroxy acids are very moisturizing: this family has more hydroxyl groups than any of the alpha hydroxy acids (hence the prefix "poly-"), so they can attract more water molecules to them. Compared to AHAs, PHA can be thought of as an improved hybrid of large molecule mandelic acid and lactic acid, the most moisturizing of alpha hydroxy acids. Also, due to heavy molecules that practically do not damage the barrier layer of the skin, PHAs do not provoke photosensitivity.

What are PHA

Glossier Solution Exfoliating Skin Perfector Tonic
NeoStrata Restore Bionic Face Cream

PHA includes two acids: gluconic and lactobionic. They can be effective both together and separately. Gluconic acid is naturally produced in skin cells in small amounts, and in the laboratory it is obtained by fermentation of pure glucose. It moisturizes well and exfoliates gently, which is especially suitable for dry and sensitive skin. Its antioxidant properties can also be beneficial to the epidermis, whose natural lipid barrier has been damaged.

Lactobionic acid is composed of the sugar galactose and gluconic acid. There are as many as eight hydroxyl groups in its molecule, that is, it can "bind" eight water molecules to itself by ionic bonds. For comparison: gluconic acid has four hydroxyl groups, and lactic and glycolic acids have one each. Simply put, lactobionic acid moisturizes very well, concentrating in the stratum corneum and attracting water to itself - that is, it acts in the image and likeness of the components of a natural moisturizing factor.This compound is so safe that lactobionic acid is used in the food industry as a stabilizer and in pharmaceuticals for osmotic stabilization of cells and tissues - that is, for the regulation of fluid in them.

“There is evidence that lactobionic acid inhibits the destruction of collagen fibers, so it is used for restorative care after various aesthetic procedures, such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels and non-ablative photo procedures,” says Elena Pasternak, dermatologist, cosmetologist, trichologist, director of the medical department and scientific coordinator of the Sesderma company. Another study claims that lactobionic acid makes iron in cells chelated, meaning less aggressive. This can be beneficial when there is an excess of iron in the skin: in this case, it increases the level of free radicals, accelerating the aging process. It is also used to preserve organs during transplantation, eliminate dry eye syndrome and many other medical purposes. In general, it was a matter of time before acid became the main character of cosmetics. As is often the case - after success in medicine.

Who needs PHA

PCA Skin Hydrating Serum
Thank You Farmer Back To Iceland Peeling Cream
Zelens PHA + Bio-Peel Resurfacing Facial Pads

PHA acids are excellent for dry sensitive skin, for skin with a broken barrier layer, with rosacea, with strong photo-damage and after cosmetic procedures. In dermatological practice, PHA-based products are prescribed for ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis in remission, as well as for the treatment of acne and rosacea in combination with classical treatments.

If you have normal, dry, and dehydrated skin and want to try a non-photosensitive analogue of your favorite AHAs in the summer, then PHA is also a great choice, provided you don't forget about sunscreen. But with oily and problem skin, PHA can be added to your beauty diet only in combination products with AHA and BHA. “People with oily skin prone to breakouts or thick skin and wide pores are better off staying on AHAs. They will be more effective, since their molecules are smaller and therefore penetrate deeper into the skin, due to which the processes of collagenesis and exfoliation are more active. And hybrid remedies, due to a combination of mild PHA acids and more aggressive ones, are indicated for acne in patients with thick porous skin and pronounced greasiness,”explains Marina Kulbaeva.

PHOTOS: skintrends, dermstore, londonlovesbeauty, amway, ecobiolife, dermstore, iherb, johnlewis

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