Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
The fierce heat this year came earlier than usual, but along with it we were overtaken by a wave of new - good and very different - spirits. Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova has selected several scents, thanks to which we will remember Summer 2019 as fragrant, not stuffy.
for 30 ml, Lush stores
Mark and Simon Constantine, perfumers of Gorilla Perfumes, have done a lot of great things - Breath of God and Kerbside Violet, for example, have long earned them a star on the perfume walkway. The new fragrance Goddess will also be included in the Lush gold fund, for diversity for the sake of being inspired not by Simon's travels, but by the bath bomb of the same name. It was released last year, following Ariana Grande's video "God is a Woman", where the singer splashes in a purple liquid with spectacular stains, as Solaris is usually portrayed. That, according to the Konstantinov, smells very sultry: cinnamon roses, dark and viscous, like buckwheat honey, jasmine and osmanthus, sprinkled with oud oil.
de Parfum Sensuelle
from 4840 rub.
for 30 ml
In the Aura family, Mugler's swamp witches, the new "Sensual Water" is the very sister who wants not to frighten, but to please: she will take poisonous berries from the lost traveler, lead them out of the thicket to the edge and tell them to come to her again - in the daytime. And he will come, because Eau de Parfum Sensuelle is absolutely charming thing. The evil orange blossom shrouded in green miasma from the original Aura Eau de Parfum was replaced by a creamy, quite greenhouse gardenia, the balance of vanilla and musk was shifted towards the latter, and the spicy freshness of mint and eucalyptus, which scared many in EdP, was reduced to a delicate background sound. The belonging of the new Aura to the green-eyed family is still obvious - no, no, yes, a tentacle of a predatory liana will creep out of the musky-flower jelly, but Eau Sensuelle definitely does not want to stay in more often.
for 100 ml
Erin Lauder's new fragrance seems to be dedicated to Greece (the name translates as "Aegean Flower", and the advertising text glorifies the beauty of the Greek islands), but still talks about America. In general, what the heiress of the Estée Lauder empire is consistently doing on the scale of her own perfume brand, I would like to call American beauty - fresh, neat, with clean skin and even teeth; even the traditionally depraved tuberoses at Aerin come out chaste. Whether you need a modest tuberose, albeit a beautiful one, is another matter, but few people succeed in purity and freshness as well. So, Aegea Blossom - light musk, conscientiously washed white flowers, pale green shade of vetiver - smells like a summer morning on Cape Cod, as Edward Hopper wrote it in 1951: an empty studio, a strict spot of light, a transparent and cold Atlantic on the doorstep …
Portrayal for man
for 100 ml, TSUM
The new Amouage pair, female and male Portrayal, is the swan song of creative director Christopher Chong, who recently stepped down after twelve years at the company. His legacy is treated differently: it was Chong who turned the Omani perfume house towards the West, from sultry dunes and pink bushes to European Art Deco and New York skyscrapers; not all fans of the classic Amouage style, rich and oriental, liked it.
The reaction to the new Portrayal, especially the male one dedicated to 1920 in London, is also ambiguous - they write, in particular, that it is "boring", "poor", "indistinct". In fact, it is very clear: the male Portrayal - a violet with a crispy cucumber peel, juniper bitterness, alcoholic chill, gasoline vapors - smells like gin and tonic, into which they threw a couple of flowers from a nearby bush. In comparison with the old Amouages, and with last year's Imitation too, this minimalism really seems to be fat-free, but for the sweltering heat, this bitter freshness is perfect.
RUB 11 800
for 100 ml, TSUM
A great rarity is a cool perfumery banana. Does it look like the truth? More likely not: this is the fruit of the Velvet Underground album cover, drawn by Warhol in 1987 - recognizable, but deliberately sketchy.On top of the fruity sweetness, enveloping and mealy, Celine Ellena puts a beautiful sprig of jasmine and a pinch of pepper - all together, it smells like an intricate Bengali dessert.
Paris - Riviera
for 125 ml, Chanel boutiques
As we are informed by the Chanel website, the staff perfumer of the house Olivier Polge, working on the new Paris - Riviera, was inspired by the Villa La Pause - this is a beautiful, albeit rather ascetic, in the spirit of monastic childhood Gabrielle Chanel, a house in the hills near Nice, which the couturier owned from 1928 to 1954. Previously, the site belonged to the rulers of Monaco - the Grimaldi family, from which Chanel inherited a beautiful orange grove. Of course, Paris - Riviera smells like orange and everything around, primarily petitgrain and neroli. But the Riviera, as Somerset Maugham wrote, is “a sunny place for dark personalities” (Chanel herself can be attributed to them), and few things in perfumery are as effective as jasmine. Here he is quite indole, with character, but keeps within the bounds of decency.
for 100 ml
The French label Room 1015 is doing a nice job of perfume inventory from the 1970s. Her interest is not entirely original: Imitation, Amouage, California - Holy_Wood, Nomenclature, the main goddess of the decade, Jane Birkin, - L'Air de Rien, Miller Harris, etc. are dedicated to New York of the same time, but Room 1015 (in the name given to a room in the Los Angeles Continental Hyatt House, which The Rolling Stones especially loved to smash) is absolutely not going to leave his hotel on Sunset Boulevard; in the company of guitars, tattoo machines and young groups, he is very comfortable.
At the same time, Ten Fifteen, dedicated to the same seventies lewdness in "Hiatt", smells very modern and even fashionable: here the spicy, strongly saffroned iris is reclining on a feather bed made of amber-woody synthetic materials, guaranteeing a powerful trail and deadly durability. Continuing the musical theme, Ten Fifteen is a big rock ballad, tenacious and tenacious slow that lives in the head for a long time.
PHOTOS: Fragrantica (1, 2), Lush, Aerin, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Chanel, Villa 515