Stockholm is more than the capital of Sweden… For some, this is the city of childhood from the 1968 cartoon, with the twilight roofs of Vasastan and the streak of antennas. For others, Swedish design, an IKEA store and a Nobel Prize. Stockholm knows how to find an approach to everyone, sorting through the beads of the fourteen islands of which it consists: Knight's, Royal, Museum Djurgården and many others. We put together a short guide to Stockholm, in which there was a place for museums, palaces and the most correct meatballs.
Text: Evgeniya Pisman
One of the oldest residences in Europe, like a phoenix that rose from a fire. At first, there was a fortress near Lake Mälaren, which gradually turned into a Renaissance palace. During the next perestroika, a fire broke out - the maids of honor fled from the palace, the queen was carried out in a deep swoon, and behind her a silver throne flew out of the window. In a couple of hours, the palace burned down. I had to rebuild it again - it turned out better than before, with baroque and rococo interiors. In front of the palace there is a spectacular changing of the guard - every day in summer at 12:15 pm (except Sunday - on this day everything happens at 13:15), with music and a parade. You can always check the schedule here.
Vasa Ship Museum
The magnificent sailboat was ready to be launched - a crowd gathered on the embankment to watch the flagship of the Royal Navy go beyond the horizon. Appliances, shouts of joy, but something went wrong: a gust of wind overturned the sailboat when leaving the harbor of Stockholm and it sank instantly. With cannons, cannonballs and part of the team. The investigation showed that the designers made a mistake in the parameters: the Vasa ship turned out to be too narrow, and the center of gravity was too high. In 1961, the ship was raised - it is perfectly preserved for a wooden ship that had lain in the water for three hundred years. A museum was built especially for him, where you can see a wooden frame, richly decorated with figures, and imagine the atmosphere of that ill-fated August day.
The most ancient part of Stockholm, where in the corner of one house you can find a runestone, and in the corner of another - a cannonball. Stortorget Square has the most photogenic houses in Stockholm: green, red and yellow, with carved facades. They wink at travelers with magnets and talk about the bloodbath that took place in front of their windows. Ninety-two white stones are embedded in the facade of the sweet red house - according to the number of instigators of the uprising, whom the Danish king executed in a picturesque square. They say that the stones must be counted: it is believed that if one disappears, he will turn into a ghost and will frighten tourists in the narrow streets of Gamla Stan.
Stockholm City Hall
The austere red brick building where the Nobel banquet takes place every December 10th. Everything happens in the Blue Hall, which is actually red: the architect Ragnar Östberg liked the original sunny red color of the brick so much that he decided to leave it as it is. Estberg thought of everything - according to legend, his wife walked for hours along the model of the staircase of the Blue Hall in an evening dress and heels to get the right steps from which ladies would not collapse. In the wall opposite the stairs, Estberg depicted a star so that guests would look at it and look decent in photographs. The adjoining Golden Hall, where the Nobel Prize ball is being held, was decorated by Estberg with golden mosaics in the Venetian style. The craftsmen miscalculated a little, and Saint Eric, the patron saint of Stockholm, did not fit his head. "For goodness sake, it was intended that way," answered the resourceful Estberg. "There is no need to waste the mosaic in vain, anyway the saint was beheaded."
Ethnographic open-air museum, which contains farm houses of the XVIII-XIX centuries from all over Sweden. They were carefully disassembled by logs and transported to Skansen, where they were reassembled.There are houses with earthen roofs, with mica windows, on chicken legs-piles, there are peasant huts and estates of aristocrats. In every house, a hostess in a national costume sits with real utensils and explains in simple English how everything works. You can look into the craftsmen's quarter with shoemakers, bakers, tanners and glassblowers to touch everything, try to make it yourself or buy.
Panoramic trail Monteliusvagen
Five hundred meters of breathtaking views of Lake Mälaren, the town hall and Gamla Stan. Along the path that winds over the Södermalm embankment, benches are placed to admire the landscape from the postcard. It seems that you reach out and touch the golden crown on the spire of the town hall opposite. Around - an area of cobblestone pavements and neat houses, in one of which lived Mikael Blomkvist, the hero of the Stieg Larsson trilogy "Millennium".
Metro station R å dhuset
It looks like the cave of the mountain king, illuminated by the reflections of fire. Artistic compositions with shoes and baskets are embedded in the walls. The Metro in Stockholm is called the longest art gallery in the world: one of the stations is painted with children's drawings, the columns of the other are lined with stones and water lilies, the ceiling of the third is decorated with blue branches and figures of metro workers. Stockholm's three metro stations are considered some of the most beautiful in the world: Rådhuset, Stadion and T-Centralen.
Prästgatan, or "Street of Preachers"
The most medieval view of Stockholm. A street with houses in the color of honey and terracotta in the Old Town has been mentioned in documents since the 16th century: some of the houses were occupied by the priests of the neighboring cathedral, some by the preachers of the German Church of St. Gertrude. The street leads to Helvetesgränden, or Hell's Lane, where the executioners have already settled.
Pedestrian tunnel Brunkebergstunneln
It was pierced in the mountain one hundred and thirty years ago to connect the districts of Norrmalm and Östermalm. The tunnel turned out to be a psychedelic pipe with sun-yellow panels, which was chosen by tourists and photographers.
View from above
On the top floor of the museum, there is a restaurant with panoramic windows and fantastic views of the harbor and the island of Djurgården. Ideal for watching Baltic Sea ferries, ships and yachts. Bonus is one of the provocative photo exhibitions at the museum.
Katarinahissen, or Katarina's Lift
An observation deck above the Södermalm area, to which an elevator in an openwork tower rises thirty-eight meters. The elevator, however, is not working now, but the observation deck is in place. You can see the embankment, the Old Town, Djurgården Island and tower cranes on the horizon.
One hundred meters of dizzying height with panoramic views of the city. The prices in the restaurant can hardly be called democratic, but on the floor above there is a bar where you can limit yourself to a cocktail. It is served with a panorama of Stockholm from black roofs and steel glitter of water.
Meatballs with lingonberry jam
Favorite dish of Carlson and Swedish children. They say that the most correct meatballs are made in a cafe in the Astrid Lindgren Fairy Tale Museum. If you explore Stockholm as an adult, then Meatballs for the people is responsible for the meatballs. In addition to the classics, the menu includes meatballs made from wild boar, elk, bear and others. They are served with delicate mashed potatoes, pickled cucumbers and the indispensable lingonberry sauce.
Traditional Swedish coffee break with a bun. Fiku is respected by office workers, freelancers and important directors. The main thing is to forget about everything except the present moment with the aroma of coffee and cinnamon. Travelers are especially shown fika to reboot their impressions - for example, in the cafe with the self-explanatory name Fikabaren, where the union of coffee and twisted cinnamon roll is close to ideal.
It doesn't matter if it's an hour-long canal cruise or a three-hour archipelago cruise. Stockholm with its embankments and spiers looks amazing from the water, and the idea of a boat trip will justify itself from the first minutes. The panorama of the city is adorned with the masts of the Vasa ship, piercing the roof of the museum, tower cranes and tall carousels in the Grena Lund park.And then a scattering of rocky islands with houses that look like drops of lingonberry jam begins.
Moved to Sweden 5 years ago to live with her husband
I have been living in the capital for four years, but despite this, Stockholm never ceases to amaze and fascinate. There are a lot of places where I like to come again and again - this is the Old Town, and the town hall, and the museum island of Djurgården. Choosing three or four was not easy.
Södermalm is the so-called hipster district. There are many cafes, restaurants and designer shops here. There are also excellent viewing platforms. My favorite place is the observation deck on Monteliusvägen street. It offers a beautiful view of the very heart of Stockholm. You can sit on a bench and admire the view of Lake Mälaren, the Town Hall, Riddarholmen Island and the Old Town. Walking a little along Monteliusvägen, you can walk to the small Ivar Los Park and have a small picnic with coffee and traditional Swedish cinnamon rolls from a nearby café.
THE ADDRESS: Södermalm
Stockholm Public Library
The library is located a few blocks from the house where the writer Astrid Lindgren once lived, in the Vasastan area - she settled Karlson on one of the roofs. The library building, which is not particularly remarkable from the outside, impresses with its interior. Shelves with books from floor to ceiling seem to envelop. Here you can take beautiful photos, or just sit in silence for a while; the entrance is free. Next to the library, on a hill, there is the Observatorielunden park, overlooking this wonderful area. Once you reach the very top, you can take a break and treat yourself to traditional Swedish fick at the Himlavavet Café.
The address: Sveavägen 73
Mr Cake and Cafe Pascal
Mr Cake is a cafe that was opened by two super famous Swedish pastry chefs Roy Fares and Matthias Ljungberg. Here you can taste traditional Swedish pastries such as cardamom rolls or cinnamon rolls. You can go for something a little more fancy, like Red Velvet croissants, as well as a sandwich or avocado toast. Cafe Pascal, although not owned by celebrity pastry chefs, is nevertheless well known. In the cafe on Norrtullsgatan, you can not only have breakfast or lunch, but also just drink coffee with a roll or cake in a pleasant interior.
The address: Mr Cake - Rådansgatan 12; Cafe Pascal - Norrtullsgatan 4
Moved to Stockholm 6 years ago
For me, Stockholm has always been a wow city. I've dreamed of it since Astrid Lindgren's fairy tales and gloomy books about a girl with a dragon tattoo. Stockholm also became a city of love for me: after the first trip in 2012, it was here that my husband's and my story began, and a year later we moved to Stockholm from Kiev. My business began as a hobby - now I fall in love with this city on my excursions.
In these places, I conduct two whole routes of group walks. But the South Island is still a little touristy - and completely undeserved. If you walk along the northern shore of Södermalm, you will see a panorama from the Baltic Sea to Lake Mälaren.
THE ADDRESS: Södermalm
Karlson's places on Vasastan
After the library, walk around Vasastan, especially its heart - Vasapark. Astrid Lindgren's apartments were once located on both sides. In the first she lived for ten years and there, according to her own words, she met Carlson. And in the second, the writer spent most of her life, until her death in 2002. There Pippi Longstocking was born.
The address: Dalagatan 46
Photos: Wikimedia Commons, Marcus Boberg / Försvarsmakten, Harvey Barrison / Flickr, Fotografiska, Meatballs for the People