IN THE HEADING "ANALYSIS OF THE COMPOSITION" journalist and entrepreneur Kristina Farberova and cosmetic chemist-technologist Yulia Ageeva analyze the compositions of popular products. In the new release - Kiehl's Moisturizing Cream SPF 30.
TEXT: Christina Farberova, the author of the telegram channel "Chris Printing"
Moisturizing face cream with SPF 30
structure: Water, glycerin, squalane, dimethicone, peg-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, silica, octyldodecanol, stearic acid, phenoxyethanol, palmitic acid, tocopherol, dicaprylyl carbonate, steareth-100, acrylates / c10-30 extract alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ophi root, carbomer, chlorphenesin, capryloyl salicylic acid, caprylyl glycol, xanthan gum, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, disodium edta, sodium hydroxide, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, limonene, ectoin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, myristicita peppermint) oil, pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, ethylhexylglycerin, linalool, salicylic acid
The Kiehl's brand appeared in New York in 1851. Then it was a small family pharmacy, and now it is a well-known cosmetic brand with its own boutiques and corners around the world. But the “pharmacy” aesthetics remained one of the main distinguishing features of the company - you can find anatomical skeleton in almost every store, and consultants wear white coats.
Kiehl's has several iconic products, such as Andy Warhol's favorite Blue Herbal tonic, or the Rare Earth line for oily skin. But their most famous product is Ultra Facial Basic Moisturizer. Today we are analyzing this product in its current version for the summer - with SPF 30.
Water, dimethicone, glyceryl stearate, silica, octyldodecanol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, dicaprylyl carbonate, steareth-100, acrylates / c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carbomer, xanthan gum, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, disodium hydroxide
All these components in the composition are responsible for the texture of the cream, its cosmetic elegance and tactile properties. As we already know, water is the most frequent ingredient in the first place of formulations. Silicones and emulsifiers - such as dimethicone, stearic acid and glyceryl stearate - make the cream stable and allow it to spread evenly over the skin. Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (acrylates / c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) and carbomers (carbomer) are added to the formula to give the cream texture lightness, and xanthan gum (xanthan gum) for plasticity and silkiness. By the way, xanthan gum is a completely natural ingredient. It is a polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of sugar syrup. Disodium EDTA is needed to remove impurities from water, and sodium hydroxide regulates the viscosity and pH of the finished product.
Preservatives and perfume
Phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, limonene, myristic acid, ethylhexylglycerin, linalool
Kiehl's cream contains a standard set of preservatives and perfume components. Myristic acid and linalool have an exclusively aromatic function. Chlorphenesin is a weak synthetic preservative that provides mainly antifungal protection. Most often it is added to products with silicones. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative and Ethylhexylglycerin is an enhancer.
Glycerine, squalane, tocopherol, ophiopogon japonicus root extract, capryloyl salicylic acid, caprylyl glycol, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, ectoin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, mentha piperita (peppermint) oil, pseudoalteromonas acid fericyment extract, salteromonas fericyment extract
Glycerin and squalane are the main moisturizing ingredients in the composition. Squalane protects the skin from moisture loss, makes it elastic and improves the structure of the natural protective barrier. This component can be found in fish oil (it is especially abundant in shark liver oil) and in some vegetable oils (but it is much less there), which makes olive squalane both ethical and very expensive. Squalane is also found in our sebum, so it can be called a physiological and biocompatible cosmetic ingredient.
Tocopherol (tocopherol) - vitamin E, in cosmetics, it acts as an antioxidant. Ectoin was until recently considered a common emollient, but new research suggests its antioxidant activity. Ectoine can protect skin cells from environmental pollutants.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid better penetrates the skin, moisturizes it and reduces visible wrinkles. Ophiopogon japonicus root extract helps the skin retain moisture. An enzyme from the marine strain Pseudoalteromonas (pseudoalteromonas ferment extract) balances sebum production and reduces oily sheen. Salicylic acid is an exfoliating ingredient that removes dead cells from the skin's surface. “This component can perform different tasks in a formula. The final idea is known only to the technologist who created it, - says Yulia Ageeva."In theory, salicylic acid could have been added to the perfume (since it is a complex of complex compounds with aromatics) to stabilize this complex formula."
“The composition contains the essential oil of orange (citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil) - in my opinion, a controversial decision. Citrus essential oils are photosensitive, which means that they increase the sensitivity of the skin to the action of ultraviolet radiation, explains Yulia Ageeva. - At the same time, it contains an impressive percentage of UV filters for sun protection. Essential oils can cause irritation when heated. This means that you should not go out in the sun with them - although the cream containing SPF is clearly designed for just that."
Ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate 5%, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene 7%
“Sunscreen cosmetics are one of the most difficult for a technologist to develop,” says Yulia Ageeva. - All filters in the formula are chemical. Physical filters scatter and reflect ultraviolet rays, while chemical filters absorb them."
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane - aka avobenzone - is often used in sunscreens because it can block different wavelengths of both UVA and UVB. It is one of the best sunscreen ingredients available. Avobenzone has one weak side - it is unstable, its effectiveness decreases by 36% in the first hour of exposure to the sun. Therefore, according to a cosmetic chemist, octocrylene is used to stabilize it. The latter is often combined with other UV absorbers to obtain a more stable SPF formula.
Octyl salicylate (ethylhexyl salicylate) is itself an ultraviolet filter and a stabilizer for other sunscreen components. Octyl salicylate absorbs UVB light, so it cannot be the only active ingredient in an SPF formula. Most often octyl salicylate is supplemented with octocrylene or titanium dioxide.
Salicylates such as homosalate are weak UV absorbers. Homosalate is added to the formula because it is a good solvent for other filters, such as avobenzone. Homosalate is also insoluble in water, which allows it to remain effective when you swim or sweat.