Item: Girls About How They Gave Up Buying New Clothes

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Item: Girls About How They Gave Up Buying New Clothes
Item: Girls About How They Gave Up Buying New Clothes

Video: Item: Girls About How They Gave Up Buying New Clothes

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Video: Women of Different Salaries on How Often They Shop | Glamour 2023, January
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although it seems that conscious consumption is a recent trend, the numbers suggest otherwise. The period during which people wear things has decreased by a third over the past fifteen years, and their number is only increasing. We began to willingly take a canvas shopper instead of a plastic bag, but it turned out to be much more difficult to cut down on purchases of clothes, shoes and accessories. The industry is still counting on strong consumption and rapid growth: bloggers on Instagram post new looks every day, stores are bombarded with messages about promotions and discounts, and gloss - with lists of hot trends. We asked the girls who completely (or almost completely) refused to buy new clothes in stores, about why they took such a step and how they are now solving the issue with clothes.

Text: Natalia Yancheva, the author of the telegram channel Make Your Style

Elena Romashko

financier

Kiev

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Until 2013, I bought a lot in stores and ordered from American sites - my mother and I had such a hobby. Before, I could buy my favorite shoes in three colors. Or uncomfortable but beautiful. Or sixth red sandals. Sometimes I see programs about celebrities' wardrobes and think: "Huh, I have more." Now I give away three bags of things every week, and I still have three dressing rooms in two apartments filled to the brim.

My values ​​changed at the end of 2013, when our revolution began. I didn’t go to the rallies, which I regret now: my relatives didn’t let me go (they said that this was not a woman’s business - the revolution). All my acquaintances were there, and those who did not go - me, girlfriends with small children - watched the Internet channel for days, which covered this, and simply could not think of anything else. What kind of shops are there - everything, except this struggle, seemed so fake and inappropriate. And I decided that at least with money I would help this good cause. She carried packages with medicines for the sick (it was in the winter) and the wounded, then she began to transfer money to the army.

When migrants from Donbass appeared, I gave them old down jackets, sweaters … I still send things to refugees, distant relatives, inexpensive, but almost new (or new) I give to a charity store - they sell, and the money goes to good purposes, but expensive I sell through instagram. At different times, I loved Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Kenzo, Max Mara, so when I discovered the world of commission dealers on Instagram before the New Year, I earned two thousand dollars.

For three years now I have been buying myself something very rarely - I get everything from the mezzanine. Fashion is returning, and I already have it all: white boots, Cossacks, floral dresses, oversized denim jackets. I make exceptions on trips if I really like the things of local brands unknown to me. It also turns out to be a pleasant memory, and then nowhere do I meet doubles.

A couple of years ago, I found out that it takes a lot of water to make one pair of jeans, and I just felt sick. My parents taught me from childhood: when you brush your teeth, don't turn on the tap unnecessarily - and here are the numbers! Since then, I have been thinking to others that they do not need this twentieth bag and fifteenth jeans.

When I want to buy something, I hit myself on the hands like this: I buy my godchildren. It seems that I bought it - and not for myself.

Margo Tikhonova

digital marketer, stylist

St. Petersburg

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As an experiment, I decided to give up buying new things for a year. Like most people, with the advent of the mass market, I was overgrown with a huge amount of clothes. I bought at ASOS, H&M, Zara - ten items a month. Waiting for a package with shoes, accessories and new sweaters has become an endorphin ritual. At some point, I realized that I needed to stop: things began to bring much less joy than when I could afford one new T-shirt a month. Plus, the quality of the clothes began to upset.

In November 2018, I was in America, in the suburbs of San Francisco, and was surprised at the number of parcels from Amazon that came to local residents every day. There I also watched the films Minimalism - about consumption in general - and "True Cost" - about modern fashion and its workers on Netflix. The latter especially influenced my attitude towards the consumer industry. We watched the three of us with a friend and husband, and we all had tears from the horror we saw.

The film impressed me so much that I decided to try not to buy a new one. The New Year came in very handy with its promises - and I set myself the goal of giving up new things as much as possible for the next twelve months. Instead, I decided to take good quality used clothes from swaps, vintage and second-hand shops - and if I buy new (for example, tights and lingerie), then see who produced it and where. I also decided to give up polyester and other synthetics, fur and natural leather. I also change my clothes on swaps and put them in “Thank you” boxes, and hand over my shoes for recycling at Vagabond.

You can find a lot of cool things in second-hand now, so I was not worried that the wardrobe would look worse - I was more afraid that I would break off and I would want something new. But, oddly enough, it turned out to be easier than I thought, and I feel better now. In six months I bought ten things: nine of them used and only one new sneakers. It took several months to find a used model of its size, and the old ones were worn out.

Basically I buy everything in a closed Facebook group for women in St. Petersburg and in the Moscow Second friend store. Now I am thinking of opening my own second-hand: I would like to see more of these stores.

Oksana Khrapova

stylist

Seattle

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When I lived in Moscow, I worked as an advertiser and led large clients. Sometimes you come to the office in the morning and they tell you that you have to be at an event in the evening. You run to the store, buy a dress and shoes from something you don't know at a time. I had a gigantic closet - a two-meter Ikeevsky wardrobe "Pax", half of which I completely filled; and that's not counting shoes, bags and outerwear.

In 2014, my husband and I decided to move to the United States. I began to distribute and sell things and was horrified: silk blouses were adjacent to cheap rags - and they were really rags. I threw out a lot, and the rest was raking for a whole year, participated in all Facebook sales. I was leaving with two suitcases. Only three pairs of shoes remained: boots, heels and oxfords. After the move, for the first two months I bought things, but, fortunately, I quickly came to my senses and returned almost everything to the stores.

I started working as a stylist and my attitude towards things changed. Here they are not an indicator of status; people pay much less attention to them than in Moscow. In the state where I live, everyone is focused on ecology. Perhaps this is a trend for local youth, they like to boycott large department stores or brands. But many really think about nature and that corporations have taken over the market and stifled small businesses. One of my clients, a top manager of a large company, whose income allows her to buy whatever she wants, dresses exclusively in second-hand shops.

The turning point for me was my purchase at Saks Fifth Avenue. I found a very cool military-style shirt, but after the first hand wash it got holes at the seams - the fabric just crawled. And the next day, a Gucci bag, bought a month earlier, broke its handle. The bag was repaired at the brand's store, but after a couple of months, the fastener broke again. I bought a similar one at a handicraft store - for now.

So for a year and a half to two years I have been buying clothes only in thrift stores and second-hand shops. There are two reasons. Firstly, I mostly prefer the middle market and luxury brands, but mentally I'm not ready to give 500-700 dollars for, say, cashmere. At the same time, cheaper options for $ 50-250 do not last even a couple of seasons.Secondly, a huge number of new things are handed over to American second-hand shops, and they are sold for 5–20 dollars. About 60% of my purchases are things with store tags, 25% are vintage from different times, the rest is just clothes in good or perfect condition. Fashion is cyclical: in the USA it is easy to find a thing that is relevant today, released a couple of decades ago. If you're lucky, you can buy luxury brands cheaply at thrift stores.

Over the past year, I spent a little over $ 40 on clothes, shoes and accessories. In my wardrobe, the cycle of things in nature: I buy a few, wear them, return them to the thrift stores, receive purchase vouchers and take something else. If I want a new thing, I first get rid of what is no longer needed.

Maria Ger

psychologist, recruiting specialist at Lucky Hunter

St. Petersburg

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I try to limit shopping in the mass market as much as possible - instead, I sew my own clothes from vintage fabrics. Most often these are dresses, shirts, jackets, coats. My grandmother had a huge wardrobe stuffed with short-lived scraps: costume wool, various calicoes, cotton satin. Gradually, she gave these treasures to me. Several years ago, my mother organized a thrift store, where people donated, among other things, old cuts, cotton sewing and silk scarves, and I became her regular customer. And when she got married, the mother-in-law already began to share the bins. I often visit "Udelka", and in second-hand shops I find fabrics or leather things, from which I sew cases for gadgets and small bags.

I started thinking about what is better to sew and not buy four years ago, when I moved from Arkhangelsk to St. Petersburg. It would seem that there are many shopping centers, but they have more choice. However, a large selection only increases the level of anxiety: you spend a lot of time searching, and most often you get frustrated. I don't like the quality of fabrics, styles and prints in the mass market.

Sewing yourself is an opportunity to get what you want. I have been doing this for a long time and enjoy the process. After the first higher I went to get the second in sewing and work in production. However, it is difficult to call it production: I worked for a designer who carried Chinese clothes, and I changed the tags to “hand made with love in Saint P”. Now I can cut off all Chinese labels in half an hour and sew any others onto a down jacket. Seven or ten minutes needed for a sweater or trousers - we spotted.

When I got a job, I was promised that the brand would start sewing its own clothes, and I would be instructed to develop templates in a team with a designer, but this did not happen in six months. A bunch of bags and plastic, which remained from the mis-production, were sent to the landfill. I suggested sorting plastic and leftover textiles for recycling, but this did not resonate. As a result, I quit, and after a while I quit my studies. This story undermined my trust in domestic brands (plus I more and more often come across exposure of showrooms on Instagram), so I decided to no longer look for work in the field of fashion, but to sew for myself.

I am just one person, but I try to do everything so that my life is not on training grounds, but continues in my belongings, family and work. My family has always had a culture of saving resources, but it was limited to water and electricity. I went further: when my husband and I moved, we began to collect garbage separately. We liked it - it's easy and nature-friendly. Now we buy food and everything we need, taking into account the possibility of packaging recycling. The moment that turned my life upside down was the adoption of a federal law allowing garbage to be taken out of the region, and a plan to build an ecotechnopark at the Shies station that will receive and store briquetted garbage (in the Arkhangelsk region they plan to organize a landfill that will receive garbage from Moscow. Local residents and activists have been protesting against the construction in recent months. Approx. ed.).

Elya

editor

Moscow

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I remember exactly how I had an almost empty closet, and then it suddenly stopped putting things even on thin plastic hangers. In the Ikeevskiy "Pax" 1.5 meters wide and 2.44 meters high, the outerwear and footwear were kept separately. This happened in two or three years. We parted with a young man, and after the breakup, I tried for a long time to get him back. Attempts to prove through my appearance that I am cool gave rise to my shopaholism.

I could spend the maximum limit for those days on duty-free import of goods - 1000 euros - at a time. I ordered it almost every month, I could go into a thrift store and take out a huge package, because "well, everything is cool and inexpensive." The fixation on clothes was kind of therapy. I bought beautiful things, tried them on, looked at myself in the mirror. I dressed up in dresses that I hadn’t worn before (I don’t remember that I ever put them on after kindergarten), received compliments. This helped me to reconcile myself with myself and understand that I am very much even nothing.

By the summer of 2017, I began to realize that a wardrobe that does not fit clothes is not normal, that I don't need so many things and I could spend this money on something else. I said to myself: it seems that this is not the way where at the end I am loved and happy, I have to slow down. I raked everything out, collected a bunch of bags in a charity shop and set a goal - not to buy anything for a year and put on a new bow every day without repeating. I decided that the challenge “put it on at least once” can also be fun. By the way, then I already met my future husband and, apparently, wanted to free up space in the closet for him.

I worked as an office manager with a dress code and made a table with shirts-skirts-trousers-jackets, where I recorded the combinations already used. That year, I even sometimes heard the question: "Oh, is this your new dress / watch / jacket?" And I'm like, "No, thank God!" I photographed everything and wondered if I liked these things - if not, I sold or gave them away. Thanks to the book, Mari Kondo got rid of seemingly good things, which at the same time caused bad emotions. A year later, after the end of the experiment, I bought some underwear. Six months later, by the summer - a T-shirt, pants, birken stocks. I bought a dress for the wedding, which could then be easily worn in the city.

Now the second year of awareness is almost over. Instead of spending on clothes, I began to save money for a rainy day and old age, and even more - to travel. Now my wardrobe is half of the Ikeev's closet, but I think I can easily do with a third of what I have.

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