IN THE HEADING "ANALYSIS OF THE COMPOSITION" entrepreneur Kristina Farberova and cosmetic chemist-technologist Yulia Ageeva analyze the compositions of popular products. In a new release - Garnier micellar water for all skin types.
TEXT: Christina Farberova, the author of the telegram channel "Chris Printing"
micellar water for all skin types 3 in 1
structure: Aqua / water, hexylene glycol, glycerin, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium edta, poloxamer 184, polyaminopropyl biguanide
Several years ago, the French perfumery and cosmetics company Garnier, part of the L'Oréal concern, released a new product - micellar water for all skin types 3 in 1. The product promised to quickly wash off makeup and refresh the face, and it also did not need to be washed off. This is because the composition contained micelles - cleansing microparticles capable of capturing impurities from the surface of the skin. According to the manufacturer, micelles do not damage the lipid barrier and leave the skin hydrated and refreshed.
Active and basic composition
The basis of the composition is water (aqua / water). In the second position is glycerin (glycerin), a moisturizing component. Further - hexylene glycol - preservative and solvent. “It's hard to say why he was included in the squad,” says Ageeva. "I suppose it reduces the viscosity that the poloxamer can give at low temperatures."
Poloxamers (poloxamer 184) are non-ionic soft surfactants that form micellar structures - the very micelles. They are used in cleansers: micellar water, make-up removers, cleansing emulsions, washing gels and hair care products. In the formulation of micellar water it acts as a purifier: it emulsifies and removes fatty impurities on the skin. Disodium cocoamphodiacetate is a mild surfactant responsible for cleansing the skin. Disodium edta - forms complexes with metal cations contained in water, thereby making it softer. Polyaminopropyl biguanide is a preservative that works as a preservative and is responsible for the stability of the formula: it does not allow microbes to appear in the mass.
“I recommend rinsing any micellar water off your face,” says Ageeva. - There should be nothing superfluous on the skin. Micellar is, in fact, a very liquid and mild soap. And what do they do with soap? Wash off. From the point of view of chemistry, all systems with surfactants (surfactants) belong to liquid soap. In micellar water, they are in a lower concentration and without a thickener. Not potassium and not sodium soaps."
All cleansers, shampoos, laundry detergents and dishwashing gels contain surfactants. The task of surfactants in cosmetics is to remove dirt from the surface of the skin. They attract contaminants and trap them, making it easier to remove. Micelles are one of the forms of surfactants.
Surfactants make the lipid barrier permeable and increase the rate of moisture loss. How does this happen? Surfactant molecules can interact with the lipid barrier of the skin and hair and be incorporated into it. Our lipid barrier and surfactant are somewhat similar - they both have two types of sites in the molecule: hydrophilic (which loves water) and hydrophobic (which is "afraid" of water and repels it). Surfactant molecules, or rather their hydrophobic tails, bind to the lipids of the skin barrier, capture water and, as it were, draw it out. The skin loses its ability to retain moisture, and this leads to dryness.
“If micellar water contains classical emulsifier-stabilizers PEG or Polysorbate, it must be washed off,” explains Yulia Ageeva. - These surfactants, when they are on the skin for a long time, can cause dryness, redness and rash, sensitivity of certain areas. Micellar water with Poloxamer (Poloxamer 188, Poloxamer 407) or Lauryl Glucoside (and) Coco Glucoside is softer and can theoretically be left on the face. These types of surfactants belong to the class of low-irritating and non-toxic compounds for cells, which are easily tolerated even by the mucous membrane. But all reactions will be individual."
Photos: Rive Gauche