Eco-friendly Approach: 5 Russian Brands Of Clothing Made From Natural Materials

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Eco-friendly Approach: 5 Russian Brands Of Clothing Made From Natural Materials
Eco-friendly Approach: 5 Russian Brands Of Clothing Made From Natural Materials

Video: Eco-friendly Approach: 5 Russian Brands Of Clothing Made From Natural Materials

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Video: The Best Eco-Friendly Fibers to make Clothing 2023, January
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In the fashion industry, the discussion about how how to come to environmental friendliness. Studies show that not only synthetics and leather, but also cotton and other natural materials are harmful to the environment. Some brands looking to reduce their ecological footprint are trying to find alternatives - for example, using less harmful flax, hemp and other raw materials. Moreover, not only foreign, but also Russian - pay attention, for example, to the brands “Simply beautiful”, Iva Dress and Zoe San. We have selected five more brands that choose natural fabrics in their pursuit of sustainability.

Text: Anna Eliseeva

Piccola ro

The creator of Piccola Ro Elena Rozhenko worked as a translator, civil servant, teacher, and then went on maternity leave and is in no hurry to return from it. Elena says that it is very difficult to combine office work and caring for small children - and besides, she wants to develop her own brand. “Initially, I sewed patchwork quilts, but this is a very painstaking and expensive job, and not everyone is ready to appreciate it. When my second child was born, I sewed several things for him from linen, and a skirt for myself - and fell in love. This is a luxurious material: it is easy to clean, it is strong and durable, and even an old thing from it looks many times more interesting than cotton. Flax, like wine, grows prettier over the years,”explains Rozhenko.

The founder of Piccola Ro is committed to sustainable production. For many years Elena herself has been wearing things only from natural materials, and for the brand's models she does not use synthetic fabrics. The packaging is reusable linen and half linen bags that can be used on the farm, and flax scraps are used for patchwork quilts. Piccola Ro has its own production in Pskov, which employs only five people. “We are trying to buy flax in Russia, and since this industry is very poorly developed in our country, buying flax is still a quest. You order a sea wave, for example, - dark blue comes and so on. We also buy Belarusian flax, but much less often, they have very strict conditions for wholesalers, it is difficult for us, kids, with them,”adds Rozhenko.

Elena admits that she would like to expand her production, open a showroom in St. Petersburg and continue to sew bed linen, the line of which the brand has just launched. “I really want my compatriots to wear beautiful linen clothes, so that our children's clothes are natural and functional, so that comfortable jobs are created in Russia where people work in a team, and not just leave behind. And also so that the Russian linseed production could become a confident competitor to the European one,”she says.

The assortment of Piccola Ro includes dresses of different styles and colors, as well as skirts, T-shirts and shirts. The brand can make a thing to order, but only its own models - according to Elena, the price will not change from this. So far, Piccola Ro items can be found on the brand's Instagram and on the Lambada-Market website.

HØR

Evgenia Ilyina, a designer and co-founder of the brand, became interested in the production of linen clothes several years ago, inventing her own models and bringing them to life together with a familiar seamstress. At the same time the name HØR was born, which means "flax" in Danish. A year ago, Evgenia founded the brand with her husband Arseny. Last winter, they made the first collection of ten models in a single copy: an olive bolero, several dresses, trousers, shorts, a top and a skirt. Despite having their own clothing brand, the spouses continue to work in large companies: Evgenia is an assistant manager in an oil holding, Arseny is in IT.

“When we realized that clothes are in demand and the seamstress alone simply does not have time to sew a sufficient number of models (we even lost clients for this reason), we started looking for a production facility in Moscow. We wanted to be included in the process, track the creation at all stages and make sure that the people who make our clothes get a decent salary and work in normal conditions.As it turned out later, it is not such an easy task to find a good production that, in an adequate time frame, will be able to sew high-quality things without spoilage, damaged fabrics, crooked cut, non-punched buttonholes and other things. The process of working with flax requires special skills, many things are sewn according to the technology of boiled flax, taking into account shrinkage - this way things are softer and less deformed when worn,”says PR-director of the brand Marianna Davtyan.

HØR notes that sustainability is key, which is why the brand does not use polyester blended fabrics, although they are cheaper and easier to work with. “For ourselves, we have chosen the Orsha Flax Mill - this is the largest natural flax mill in Belarus. Natural plant dyes are used for dyeing fabrics, sometimes in this regard, even difficulties arise - the shades of fabrics of the same article may differ. For the autumn-winter collection, we bought stock fabrics: cotton, wool and viscose. Here, too, we faced difficulties that damage the business. For example, we cannot repeat a pearl-colored blazer dress, because the required fabric cannot be bought anymore. But in this case, we were guided by the principles of conscious production in the same way and prioritized environmental friendliness - stock fabrics that were not sold within a certain period (about one year) are disposed of. Now we are in the process of searching and selecting new types of eco-friendly fabrics from hemp, nettle and possibly even cabbage,”notes Marianna and adds that the brand is also trying to select accessories from natural materials, such as coconut buttons.

HØR puts out small collections twice a year, and in addition, small capsules of one or two models: in winter, for example, linen pajamas in powdery shades became such a mini-collection. The founders of the brand welcome conscious consumption, believing that demand should be higher than supply, and the things themselves should be worn for more than one season. So, if the summer collection of HØR was sold completely, then the remnants of the autumn-winter collection were donated to charity markets.

“Unfortunately, the market for eco-friendly fabrics in Russia is not developed at all. In our factories, they sew with threads with the addition of polyester, they are more durable and cheaper. Now we are working to ensure that these little things also comply with our principles. We would like to develop a system of promotions and work with recyclable materials: accept things for recycling or invent a second life for them, encourage our customers for this, organize charity swap parties. We plan to cooperate with showrooms and concept stores in other cities of Russia and, of course, open our own space in Moscow. We also dream of a line of footwear and accessories,”says Marianna.

Dresses, shorts, pajamas, suits, tops and many other HØR items are made in a laconic style, but not without interesting details - some are complemented by pockets, fringes, tucks, ties and more. The brand's clothes can be found on the official website, in the DÀJE Store and Friends Social Club, as well as in city markets (on August 17 and 18, for example, HØR will be presented at the Veter Summer Fest).

Heat texture

The creator of the workshop, Daria Gonchar, studied to be an interior designer and for several years was engaged in the design of residential and public premises and landscapes; in addition, she is fond of hairdressing. The idea to create your own clothing brand was born after a long search for the perfect hat for the winter - so comfortable that I would not want to take off. First, Daria made yarn herself and knitted an accessory for herself, then added snood and mittens to it. And then, according to Gonchar, the flow of ideas did not dry out.

Interestingly, in the clothes of the "Heat Texture" there are ethnic details - folk motives in a modern version, as Daria notes. So, felting, knitting and weaving are used from techniques.The assortment includes dresses with wide sleeves, cozy massive sweaters, flared sundresses, tops with ribbons, kokoshniks and even bast shoes made of washable craft.

“We are committed to sustainability. We work only with natural materials, we even try to use wooden buttons. We cook with an environmentally friendly detergent. We don't have leftovers: I distribute small rags, pieces of yarn can become the stuff of hares. We do not use plastic and save water when felting. Minimum packaging. And in the future I want to give up wool and work only with vegan materials,”Gonchar shares his plans.

Daria orders wool from factories in Italy, Germany and England, she buys Norwegian yarn in Moscow. Fabrics are also ordered in Italy or bought at Moscow stocks. “I have a team of fairies who knit, knit, sew. Someone at home, someone in the workshop. Many things are done in stages and by different people. I had a bad experience with the sewing industry, so now only two seamstresses are sewing for us. This year I want to try cooperation with a knitwear factory, but it is much more expensive and more difficult than with a sewing factory,”adds Daria.

The clothes are produced for two seasons: winter and summer. Some basic models are always in stock, others are creativity: for example, if the founder buys a new fabric for only one thing or comes up with a new design. Now “Heat Faktura” does not sew to order. Things can be viewed and bought in a workshop in Moscow, as well as on the website.

Le

“I founded my clothing brand in the spring of 2016, when I decided to move away from tailoring to order and do something solid, interesting and with an idea. Everything was born very simply: I sewed a couple of dresses, gave it to my friends; then I put a few things in a group of a flea market; then she began to lay out things in a group of my friend who was engaged in printing on fabric, and then orders started pouring in,”says Olga Proskurina, the founder of“Le”. - Before that, I studied to be an environmentalist, and at the same time I worked, for example, for two years at Levi’s and for a short time at a Belgian restaurant. Then I started sewing. I remember that I was faced with a choice: to take the exam or go to the "Lambada Market". I decided to take a chance. Since then, all my time has been devoted to the brand."

When it came time to expand, Olga took out a loan, found production and rented a space for a showroom. Now Proskurina works with the same small factory located in St. Petersburg. “I adhere to the principle of small circulation - all things are sewn in limited quantities,” she adds.

Naturalness and environmental friendliness of materials have become one of the fundamental ideas at Le. Olga mainly uses cotton and linen, there are also wool and polyester impurities. Materials are purchased, as a rule, from European stocks in Moscow and St. Petersburg, flax - in Belarus. The founder notes that she buys fabrics only because she is confident in their quality and durability. “I will never choose either synthetic or natural material of poor quality, even if it is very beautiful. It is important for me that the thing does not deteriorate after the first wash, does not roll off in a week of socks, does not fade or break in a month,”notes Olga. Her brand does not use plastic bags, stickers and other stationery, but puts all the leftover fabrics into action - distributes them to those who sew dolls or bags.

The main collections come out four times a year (according to seasons), but there are also collaborations and capsule lines. For example, in collaboration with the White Sea brand, they create things with prints, they produced trousers with the Vernon Wear brand, and now two new models are being prepared with drawings by the artist Alexandra Dvornikova. The main assortment of "Le" presents loose dresses and sundresses, kimonos and raincoats. “I have a separate line of linen clothes that I sew myself. All things in it are in one copy, almost all are oversized. They are more unusual than the main range.The site can be viewed in the "First Line" section, "adds Proskurina.

Le's clothes can be bought on lyoclothes.ru and in the St. Petersburg studio at ul. Bolshaya Raznochinnaya, 24, as well as on the Click Boutique website and at the Faktura Heat workshop in Moscow.

Gaia

The founder of the Gaia brand, Ekaterina Bessmertnaya, admits that since childhood she loved to invent and sew clothes for herself. About three years ago, she created woolen pants, sweatshirt and dress for the fall, did a photo shoot on film and received many reviews. And then she began looking for a professional seamstress who would help bring ideas to life. Today, Gaia items are created by hand by several craftsmen and designers, while the rest of the issues are handled by the founder herself. Ekaterina has ten years of experience as a photographer, which she still combines with managing her own brand.

“I am for conscious consumption and against fast fashion. We sew from natural fabrics (for example, the entire collection of this summer is made of 100% linen), I do not wear it myself and will never choose materials for our brand where the content of synthetics exceeds 20-30%. Its small content can improve the quality of the fabric - it wrinkles less and becomes more wear-resistant. We try to minimize waste - from the remnants of flax, for example, I sew towels and napkins myself. Our clothes are made of high quality, they can be worn for many years,”says Bessmertnaya.

In her design, the founder focuses on simplicity, convenience and natural shades. “I love clothes that don't require any special treatment. And I just adore multifunctional things. In our collection, for example, there is a linen trench dress that can be worn both as a dress and as a light cape for other things,”she adds. Basic models come out once a season, but there are also experimental things, sometimes only two or three copies.

“Half of our orders are individual, adjusted to the measurements of the clients. We correct the length of the products, the width of the straps, add a belt or make a cutout on the back. Such changes are easily done based on our patterns, so the price often remains the same. Exceptions are orders for which the consumption of fabric is significantly increased. Although, as a rule, this does not exceed an additional 10% to the cost. And sometimes wedding dresses are ordered from us - we sew them from flax or a mixture of linen and cotton in delicate cream shades or white,”notes Ekaterina.

Gaia has delivery throughout Russia and even to Europe, but so far you can try on things only in the Utro store in St. Petersburg (at 17/26 Chernyshevsky Ave., Multipleis space). The brand plans to open a point of sale in Moscow. Also, Gaia clothes can be purchased in the official online store or place an order through Instagram.

PHOTOS: HØR, Gaia

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