Breakdown Of The Composition: What's Inside The Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum

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Breakdown Of The Composition: What's Inside The Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum
Breakdown Of The Composition: What's Inside The Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum
Video: Breakdown Of The Composition: What's Inside The Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum
Video: Пользовалась уходом от Estee Lauder на одной половине лица и The Ordinary на другой в течении месяца 2023, February

IN THE HEADING "ANALYSIS OF THE COMPOSITION" entrepreneur Kristina Farberova and cosmetic chemist-technologist Yulia Ageeva analyze the compositions of popular products. In the new edition - Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum.

TEXT: Christina Farberova, the author of the telegram channel "Chris Printing"

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair II

Universal restorative complex

structure: Water / Aqua / Eau; Bifida Ferment Lysate; Methyl Gluceth-20; Peg-75; Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane; Butylene Glycol; Propanediol; Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract; Hydrolyzed Algin; Pantethine; Caffeine; Lecithin; Tripeptide-32; Ethylhexylglycerin; Sodium Rna; Bisabolol; Glycereth-26; Squalane; Sodium Hyaluronate; Oleth-3 Phosphate; Caprylyl Glycol; Lactobacillus Ferment; Oleth-3; Oleth-5; Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile); Yeast Extract / Faex / Extrait De Levure; Choleth-24; Hydrogenated Lecithin; Ceteth-24; Tocopheryl Acetate; Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; Hexylene Glycol; Carbomer; Triethanolamine; Trisodium Edta; Bht; Xanthan Gum; Phenoxyethanol; Red 4 (Ci 14700); Yellow 5 (Ci 19140)


For the first time, the Advanced Night Repair serum was released by Estée Lauder in 1982. Since then, this brown pipette jar has become a legend and has been firmly entrenched in dressing tables for generations. In 2013, the serum formula was updated - the Chronolux CBTM complex was added and patented. The name was also updated - the serum became known as Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II. This product is Estée Lauder's bestseller. According to the brand, they sell approximately 1,629,199 bottles each year - literally three per minute.

Basic composition

As a rule, the base of a cosmetic product consists of water, oils, waxes, emulsifiers and texturing components. Advanced Night Repair is no exception. Water comes first, followed by Bifida Ferment Lysate. This is an active ingredient, so about it below. In third place is Methyl Gluceth-20, an emollient that moisturizes and softens the skin. It does not penetrate into the deep layers; its territory is the stratum corneum and the hydrolipid mantle. Advanced Night Repair contains two gelling agents: carbomer and xanthan gum. They are responsible for the tactile properties of the serum, so that it is pleasant to apply and easy to distribute. It also contains a large complex of emulsifiers (Peg-75; Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Glycereth-26, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Oleth-3 and Oleth-5, Choleth-24; Hydrogenated Lecithin; Ceteth-24). They help create a uniform emulsion of immiscible liquids such as oil and water, for example.

In the new serum formula, two preservatives have been replaced: methylparaben and benzyl alcohol. Instead, Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol. This is not to say that the same methylparaben is worse or more dangerous - probably Estée Lauder decided on such a replacement due to the caution of buyers and their fear of parabens. Components with colors in the name - Red 4 (Ci 14700), Yellow 5 (Ci 19140) - dyes.

Moisturizing active ingredients

Bifida Ferment Lysate; Butylene Glycol; Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract; Squalane; Sodium Hyaluronate; Bisabolol; Pantethine; Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile); Propanediol; Hydrolyzed Algin; Lactobacillus Ferment; Yeast Extract / Faex / Extrait De Levure.

ANL contains a good mix of moisturizing and skin-soothing assets. As with any self-respecting moisturizer, it has hyaluronic acid. And squalane is a naturally occurring hydrocarbon derived from olive oil. The main component of polyunsaturated lipids on our skin acts as an emollient, antioxidant and moisturizer. Also added here is bisabolol - a soothing ingredient that is obtained from chamomile. It eliminates redness and flaking, and also soothes itching. The composition also contains pure chamomile extract (Anthemis Nobilis), which also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

Bifida Ferment Lysate is an interesting ingredient. Lysates in cosmetics are often called probiotics, but this is not entirely true. Probiotics are living organisms, and adding them to cosmetics for mass consumption would be against the law. Therefore, in fact, lysates are an inanimate part of the bacterial membrane. It is assumed that such components in cosmetics are able to stimulate the immune functions of the skin and restore the protective barrier. Another probiotic in the composition is the enzyme Lactobacillus Ferment, which helps restore skin after acne and soothes. “Unfortunately, there are very few studies on the effect of probiotics and postbiotics (especially lysates) on the skin, so all their beneficial properties are still more in the theoretical field than in the practical one,” says Ageeva.

Cola Seed Extract (Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract) contains caffeine and has tonic, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. “It is often used in anti-cellulite creams and tanning lotions. In serum, it seems to have a calming function,”Yulia comments.Pantethine is a moisturizing and healing component derived from vitamin B5. Hydrolyzed Algin is a polysaccharide from brown algae that relieves irritation and inflammation and speeds up the skin regeneration process. Yeast Extract (Yeast Extract / Faex / Extrait De Levure) contains a combination of flavonoids, sugars, vitamins and amino acids. It is often incorporated into cosmetic formulas for its conditioning and antioxidant properties. Unfortunately, there is little publicly available research on this ingredient.

Other active ingredients

Sodium Rna; Tocopheryl Acetate; Caffeine; Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; Tripeptide-32; Lactobacillus Ferment.

Cosmetic companies are positioning Sodium Rna as a component that works to smooth out wrinkles. Vitamin E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) in cosmetics acts as an antioxidant: it prevents the oxidation of sebum. Caffeine, according to some studies, can reduce puffiness and dark circles under the eyes - which, in turn, may be associated with poor blood circulation in this area. Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) absorbs UVB radiation and protects from sunlight. “I don’t understand why this component is in the serum, which positions itself as night-time - this is only relevant for those who like to sleep before three in the afternoon by an open window,” says Ageeva.

Tripeptide-32 (Tripeptide-32) was also introduced as an age component in ANR. According to the patent, this peptide can turn on and off genes responsible for skin repair at different times of the day and night. However, there is no independent research to prove that this happens when applied topically to the skin. “The difficulty with peptides is that most studies are carried out on models of human skin, but this is still not the same as real skin,” explains Ageeva. “In theory, many of them work great - they regenerate the skin, stimulate collagen synthesis, and help retain moisture. But we do not yet know for sure whether this happens in practice."

Photos: Nordstrom

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