Added Patchouli For Horror: Perfumers On The Darkest Smells

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Added Patchouli For Horror: Perfumers On The Darkest Smells
Added Patchouli For Horror: Perfumers On The Darkest Smells

Video: Added Patchouli For Horror: Perfumers On The Darkest Smells

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Video: Best Dark \u0026 Sexy Perfumes For Fall/Winter - My perfume collection 2023, January
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This year instead of the classic collection the most gloomy and ominous perfume, appropriate for the end of October, we decided to do something different - we asked perfumers and those who deal with perfumed professionally what scents they associate with darkness and why.

TEXT: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic

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De Profundis, Serge Lutens

Janne Vuorenmaa

brand owner Visiteur

My favorite subgenre of horror is psychological horror, slow and measured films, which, instead of being numb with the usual scarecrows, cause discomfort somewhere deep inside, in the solar plexus region. The same effect is produced by some perfumes, as a rule, very beautiful, but if you smell it, as if touched by decay. For example, aromas with the scent of white flowers blooming at night - have opened up and are fragrant with might and main, while the scent of death and decay is already mixed with their sweetness. These smells, especially when combined with moist and earthy, slightly mushroomy notes, as in Jardenia of the French JAR or De Profundis, Serge Lutens, give me goosebumps. This is a strange feeling, exciting, pleasant and unpleasant at the same time, it stays with me much longer than the scent itself - like the aftertaste from a good horror.

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Chêne, Serge Lutens

Matvey Yudov

chemist and perfume columnist for Fragrantica

I know that this point of view is not very popular, but spirits owe nothing to anyone: they are not about seduction and boudoir, not about horrors and not about darkness, but about anything, like any other way of self-expression. There are, of course, perfume stereotypes, according to which we immediately evaluate something earthy like patchouli or geosmin (substances with the smell of moist soil. - Ed.) As dark, gloomy. But most often our perception of certain smells depends on personal experience and cultural context: in Russia, for example, chrysanthemums or lilies do not have a "funeral" flavor, but in Europe they do. The conventional Demeter with a zombie on the label seems to us gloomy precisely because of the name and the picture, but if it were Cheburashka instead of a zombie, then we would agree with this too - deciding that it smells like Cheburashka.

In general, making perfume would be too easy if everything worked like this: adding tuberose - got sex, and patchouli - horror. But in perfumery there is a very strong synergy, and in the mixture of smells of everything there is something that none of the components originally had. Take the same supposedly gloomy geosmin, which in the composition is very easy to turn into some kind of spring water or something equally life-affirming. If, nevertheless, we talk about some completely ominous spirits, then let them be Chêne, Serge Lutens: mosses and lichens, the mother of the cheese earth. And also a slight shock in me is caused by the perfume classics of the 1970s, all kinds of green chypre and mossy wine glasses. Probably because grown up uncles and aunts smelled like that when I was little and defenseless.

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But Not Today, Filippo Sorcinelli

Nata Dyshlyuk

Sentire perfumer

I am of the opinion that perfumery exists to bring joy and happiness. But without the gloomy and "scary" components, the perfumer's palette will become lifeless. Indole - the smell of wilting and decay, without which it will not be possible to convey the intoxicating beauty of jasmine, lilies and fragrant lilacs. Patchouli, so disliked by many for its association with crypts, cellars and damp earth, can be easily turned into New Years by adding a few drops of vanilla, coumarin and cinnamon. Bitter and cold cistus with its tinge of incense evokes anxiety and associations with the church, but as soon as it is combined with a rose, it turns from red to burgundy, languid and majestic. The creations of Filippo Sorcinelli, for example Epicentro or But Not Today, seem to me to be truly Gothic: while others are building cozy houses, he is building cathedrals - beautiful, breathtaking, but cold and frightening in their monumentality.

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Nuit de Bakélite, Naomi Goodsir

Maria Golovina

Holynose perfumer

Darkness and all kinds of "darkside" are not very much in demand in the perfumery industry, and deep reflection on the topic is extremely rare. When this does happen, such perfumes from buyers quickly fall into the WTF ("what was that?") Category and end up selling poorly. There is also another option - a certain promise of darkness at the level of an idea, which the rather toothless compositions ultimately do not hold back: their flirting with the conditional darkness is reduced to a combination of metallic, incense and animal notes with earthy patchouli. In my opinion, perfumer Isabelle Doyenne succeeded in truly atmospheric, psychological thriller-like perfumes - without too much pretentiousness. They not only broadcast something very personal and profound, but also make the wearer think, plunge into their own fears and walk in unexplored corners of the soul. Doyenne masterfully shows such things on the territory of chypre - it is enough to recall the mourning and bitter-wax Mon Parfum Cheri Par Camille, Annick Goutal, and on a more experimental field - take at least the poisonous green cigarette tuberose Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite, which feels like insomnia …

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Sahara Noir, Tom Ford

Francesca Bianchi

perfumer Francesca Bianchi Perfumes

Some of the fragrances seem to me to be minor and rather gloomy in themselves. These are vetiver, cypriol (an essential oil of nourishment, a fragrant material with a woody-earthy, smoky and slightly animalic aroma. - Ed.), Castoreum, norlimbanol (a synthetic substance with the smell of sawdust, tobacco and patchouli. - Ed.), with their help I like to thicken the perfumery darkness. In life for me it is very gloomy - death - the smell of chrysanthemums and flower shops that sell them. In the movies - black holes: Nolan's Interstellar gives off a mixture of mineral and fragrant notes, some particles floating in the void, and the absence of God. In art - some of the works of Mark Rothko. And in someone else's perfumery - Sahara Noir, Tom Ford, one of the darkest fragrances in history.

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Rien Intense Incense, Etat Libre d'Orange

Tetyana Zemlyakova

olfactory researcher, channel author Someone Else's History

I regard smell as a naked movement, a continuous and indivisible string of sensory data. Smells do not know the past - they do not stiffen and do not die off, but only disappear without a trace on the way from the future to the present. Smells are also not known to be static, contrary to their very nature. Smell is such a thing that the wind brings under our breath from the future, but as soon as we inhale, the smell escapes forward again. To relate to odors, one must learn to forget well and keep his nose to the wind, rushing after the continuous movement, and not against it. In this sense, making the described mistake seems to me a really dark plot. Of the spirits that flirt with such despair, I recall Rien Intense Incense, Etat Libre d'Orange - it's not so much about their smell, but about an expansive structure that subdues any movement and reverses it.

Photos: Parfume plus, Randewoo, Frmoda (1, 2), Perfumeart, Profumitest

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