Platycerium - antler

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Platycerium - antler
Platycerium - antler
Anonim

A general description of the plant, advice on growing it, watering and feeding it, selecting the soil for transplanting, pest control and difficulties in leaving. Platycerium (Platycerium) belongs to the family of the Centipede (Polypodiaceae), which has about 17-18 species. Countries with a temperate climate can be safely ranked as their native habitat, which includes South American territories, areas of Africa, Australia, Southeast Asia, the island territories of New Guinea, the Philippines, the Malay Islands and many islands in the Indian Ocean. This plant grows for many seasons. Its name comes from the fusion of the Greek words platus - flat and ketas - horn. The shape of this plant is quite unusual. Due to its strange appearance of the leaf plates, Platycerium is often called the "deer horn". Indeed, looking closely, the bush resembles the head of the animal of the same name with beautiful emerald horns.

Platycerium is considered a real epiphyte, since it chooses tree trunks for its place of growth and can reach enormous sizes on them, some species reach a meter in diameter. In Australia, there were cases when the trunks of powerful trees collapsed from a strongly overgrown plant. Indoors, Platycerium is grown on pieces of bark, and it does not reach such impressive forms. But still, it is considered a real fern, since it has leaves with sporangia attached to them.

A feature of this plant is that it has two types of leaves, or as they are called fronds - leaf plates of ferns, which are large in size, double pinnate dissection, and grow from the rhizome itself:

  • Sterile leaves, characterized by a flat surface and forming a funnel-shaped leaf rosette. These leaves help the platycerium to stay on the trunk of the host tree, and all kinds of organic matter (discarded leaves, bark particles, insect remains) accumulate under them, which is the food and supplier of the necessary trace elements for the plant. Leaves of this kind are practically sessile, with a solid edge and a rounded shape, tightly pressed against the trunk or branches of the host tree. Only at the very top of these leaves, a pocket is observed, where organic matter gets. Due to all this accumulated mass, which has an enormous weight, the trunk of the tree itself may not withstand and break off. According to some reports, the weight of this humus can reach up to 100 kg.
  • Spore-bearing leaves, carry the most important parts for plant propagation (spores) and are the decoration of the platycerium. Such leaves have short petioles and a leathery surface. They are distinguished by their high density. May grow straight or hang slightly. They resemble the antlers of a moose or deer. Also, these leaves help the plant's photosynthesis process. Unlike some ferns, the spores on these leaves are not collected in groups (soruses), but are located along the entire back side of the leaf plate, and therefore, it is painted in orange-brick tones.

The plant's rhizome is quite branched, and its aerial roots are freely placed under the plates (scales) of the rhizome or where the upper leaf plates grow.

The plant is an excellent air purifier and will help fill the atmosphere of the house with useful phytoncides, it helps to partially neutralize the harmful effects of gaseous carbon compounds. Not poisonous, can be grown in any premises.

Creation of conditions for the growth of platycerium indoors

Growing platycerium at home
Growing platycerium at home

Lighting

In order for the plant to stay in good condition, it should not be exposed to scorching sunlight, but at the same time it likes sufficient lighting, although it may be in partial shade. Windows that face the west or east side of the world are quite suitable for installing a pot with platycerium on their windowsills. For example, if the bathroom has a large window, then this place will be good. The fern does not tolerate drafts or harsh cold air at all, but loves frequent ventilation. The plant is very badly affected by dust and smoke in the room. Of course, the plant will not die in full shade on the windows of the northern exposure, but its growth will slow down significantly, or it will stop growing altogether.

Platizerium signals the quality of illumination by the shape of its leaf plates. If they are upright, strong enough and short, this means that the plant has enough light or it is bright enough. In another case (with a lack of illumination), the leaf plates begin to lengthen and change their shade to the dark green side, bending and hanging from the pot or pots. Also, good lighting becomes a guarantee that the Platycerium will not be affected by various diseases and attack by pests.

It is characteristic that different species of this fern can be kept under different lighting conditions. If the leaf plates differ in length, then the plant is quite light-loving, short and powerful leaves speak of unpretentiousness to the luminous flux.

Platycerium content temperature

In order for the fern to develop well, it is best to maintain temperature indicators within 20 degrees. As soon as they begin to exceed the mark of 24 degrees (there are species that survive at 35–38 degrees), it is necessary to significantly increase the humidity in the room in which the platycerium is located. With the arrival of the autumn-winter period, a decrease in temperature to 15-17 degrees is allowed. This fern is very fond of warm rooms, and as for the large Platycerium grande species, it can withstand temperatures only up to 18 degrees, the bifurcated fern variety (Platycerium bifurcatum) calmly tolerates zero temperatures.

Air humidity

The characteristics of the moisture content in the air should be close to 50-80%. For this plant, spraying is very undesirable and they are used in extreme cases, the spray jet must be very finely dispersed. This is characterized by the fact that the leaf plates have a slight pubescence and drops of moisture simply roll off the hairs. And with such an action, the increase in humidity lasts for a very short period and can be taken as a temporary measure. Platiterium is very sensitive to the dry air of city apartments, so it is better not to install it with central heating batteries. It is recommended to place the plant above a tray with moistened sphagnum moss or in a tray on fine expanded clay or pebbles, where water will be poured.

Home care for platiterium

Platizerium in pots
Platizerium in pots

Removing dust from the plant becomes a big problem, since the surface of the leaf plates is completely covered with small hairs, and it is unacceptable to remove them. Therefore, rubbing the leaves with a damp sponge or rag is contraindicated. To remove accumulated dust, you can use a soft brush or a weak blowing of the vacuum cleaner. If the plant is left unattended for some time (departure of the owners), then the plants must be installed in a deep container on a well-moistened marsh moss.

  • Watering the platycerium. This fern absolutely does not tolerate soil flooded with water, therefore, it is required that the soil in the pot be slightly dried between waterings. It is even possible that the leaf plates droop a little, and this will serve as a signal that the plant requires soil moisture. But if the soil in the pot is too dry, then this will also negatively affect the plant. If your Platizerium grows in a pot, you can water it through the tray from the bottom of the pot. It is necessary to pour water into it and wait for the plant to use the amount of moisture it needs, this time is usually 10 minutes. The unabsorbed water is discarded immediately. In this case, the bay will be excluded, and "bottom" watering is also used when the sterile fern leaves have grown so much that they do not make it possible to moisten the root system through watering the soil in a pot. In the summer, it is necessary to water the fern twice a week, and with the arrival of autumn, moisture is reduced.
  • Fern fertilizer. Since in the natural environment, fallen and rotten leaves, tree bark or the remains of insects serve as fertilizers for the Platycerium, the plant will have to be fed at home on its own. This is extremely necessary when the fern grows in a block in which there is practically no substrate. For top dressing, fertilizer for orchids is selected, or fertilizers in which there are equal parts of the inclusion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The solution is added to the water, which will be used for irrigation of the Platycerium. It is also possible to spray the leaf plates of the plant with these agents, at the concentration stated by the manufacturer. If the fertilizer is not for "orchids", then its proportions are reduced by 2 times. During the period of growth activity (spring-summer), the Platycerium is fertilized 2 times a month. But if the concentration of dressings was too high, then the plant signals a darkening of the leaf plates and sometimes even cracks on their surface.
  • Transplantation and selection of soil for the Platycerium. For transplanting a fern, a shallow pot with a small diameter is chosen, since the root system of the plant is not very powerful when grown at home. The transplant process is performed only once every 2-3 years. This plant is also grown in a piece of wood, without using soil or a pot (the roots of the Platycerium are airy). A moistened sphagnum moss can be laid on a large piece of bark and long nails are hammered into the future location of the fern. A plant is attached to the moss and strengthened with fishing line, tied to nails. Over time, the fern will grow enough and completely cover the line. A hook is attached to the back of the bark or tree to hang the platycerium on the wall. Watering such a plant, it is only necessary to immerse the bark in a basin of water for 10 minutes, until the moss is completely saturated with water. When the bark becomes small for the fern, then a new, larger one is attached behind it.

If the plant is planned to be grown in a pot, then the substrate is chosen light enough, for example, for orchids, which can be bought in the store. Or a soil mixture is independently compiled based on the following components:

  • leafy earth, peat soil, sand or perlite (take everything in equal parts);
  • bark of coniferous trees, peat soil, sphagnum moss, leafy soil (the proportions are the same).

The acidity of the soil should be in the range of pH 5, 5-6. In the pot, it is necessary to organize high-quality drainage to drain unnecessary water.

Reproduction of the platycerium at home

Hanging leaves of platiserium
Hanging leaves of platiserium

This fern can be propagated using scions or harvested seed material.

At the base of the platycerium bush, baby shoots can form, which can be separated to grow a new plant. A young fern should already have at least 3 leaves and this process is clearly visible when dividing. The pot is prepared earlier and filled with loose soil mixture (orchid soil). Using a well-sharpened knife, the branch plant is separated from the adult fern, not forgetting to grab a sterile shield leaf, a sufficient number of roots and at least one growing bud. In the pot with the substrate, a recess is made where the roots are placed, and a sterile leaf is above them. The bud should be 1 cm higher above the soil. Then the whole soil mixture is moistened and the plant can be covered with a plastic bag to keep the high humidity.

Reproduction by spores is a problematic and troublesome occupation. Sporangia appear rusty on the back of the leaf. This plaque is shaken off onto paper or scraped off gently with a knife. Then spores can be poured onto moss or peat, which is placed in a shallow bowl. Before this, the substrate is thoroughly sterilized (you can pour boiling water over and then dry well) and moistened. The container with crops is covered with glass or a plastic bag, and taken to a place with soft diffused lighting. After 2-6 weeks, the first seedlings appear, which look like moss. Seedlings must be ventilated, sprayed and re-placed in a mini-greenhouse. These youngsters need from 5 to 10 years to grow up, before they themselves will grow spores.

Possible difficulties and pests of the platycerium

Platycerium afflicted with disease
Platycerium afflicted with disease

When caring for a fern, the following problems are distinguished:

  • the appearance of red-brown or brownish spots, which are surrounded by a rim of a dark shade with black specks, this indicates that the plant is flooded with water, treatment is carried out with fungicides;
  • brownish spots can cause direct sunlight;
  • drooping leaf plates indicate prolonged drying of the earthen coma;
  • yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of brownish spotting indicate elevated temperatures, coupled with rare soil moisture;
  • the pale color of the leaves suggests either a small pot or a lack of fertilizing;
  • leaf plates faded and wilted when the lighting was too bright;
  • if the plant grows too slowly, then it is necessary to replace the pot with a larger one.

The most likely pests affecting Platycerium are the scale insect spider mite, mealybug, aphid and fern aphid. At the initial stages of plant infection, it is possible to use soap or oil solutions, with which fern leaves are treated. If these measures do not help, then you can spray the leaves with modern insecticides.

Types of platitzerium

Platycerium two-forked
Platycerium two-forked
  • Platycerium grande The tropical Asian and Australian territories, as well as the islands of the Philippines, are considered their native habitat. Sterile leaves are up to 60 cm long and have deep forked cuts on the surface. Themselves do not dry out for a long time. Spore-bearing leaves can be up to a meter long, wedge-shaped, and slightly hanging down. From the middle of the leaf, they have a forked dissection into belt-shaped lobes. It is appreciated for its high decorative effect.
  • Platycerium (flat-horned) Angolan (Platycerium angolense). African territories in the equator region are considered the birthplace of the plant. Sterile fronds have a solid edge and are slightly bent back in the upper part. Fertile fronds have a triangular wedge shape. The upper part of the leaf reaches 40 cm in length and is not dissected, has small notches along the edge and a dull orange pubescence. Spores are spread across the entire surface of the sheet. Grown in greenhouses and rooms with warm temperatures.
  • Platycerium bifurcatum (Platycerium bifurcatum). It is sometimes called deer-horned or moose-horned. The native habitat of the tropical woodlands of Australia. Sterile leaf plates, rounded, measured 20 cm in diameter, divided into lobes along the edge. Spore-bearing fronds vary 50–70 cm, taper in a wedge to the base, in the upper part they expand in a fan-like manner and have a lobar dissection 3–4 cm wide. The color of the leaves is gray-greenish, the lobes hang down beautifully. Spores are located over the entire surface of the lobes and are colored yellow-brown. This type is distinguished by its decorative effect.
  • Platycerium Hillii Moore. Similar to the previous view, but has sheet plates of compact size, with shallow cuts. Some lobes are slightly pointed at the apices and are shorter than the rest. The spores are arranged in groups in the form of ovals.

You will learn more about the care of the Platitzerium from this video: