What is chemical peeling, pros and cons of the procedure, types, indications and contraindications, rules for its implementation, subsequent skin care and possible side effects. As with any cosmetic manipulation, chemical peels can have negative consequences. However, as a rule, this happens when the rules of the procedure are violated. The main disadvantages of chemical peeling are the presence of a certain rehabilitation period, during which the epidermis is restored.
Consider the disadvantages of such a purification:
- Discomfort during the procedure. Acids affect the upper layers of the skin, which can provoke burning, tingling and other sensations.
- The appearance of redness on the skin. This reaction can persist for several weeks. The sensitive epidermis reacts especially sharply to peeling.
- Burn formation. Sometimes after cleansing, crusts may appear on the face. In this case, the beautician performing the procedure should recommend special skin care.
- Desquamation of the dermis. A natural consequence of acid peels is the exfoliation of the top layers of the skin. It peels off especially strongly in the first seven days after manipulation.
- Hypersensitivity to ultraviolet light. After chemical peeling, the skin should be carefully protected from direct sunlight. Otherwise, pigmentation on the face may appear. Therefore, it is not recommended to do the procedure in the summer. The best time to spend is autumn and winter.
As a rule, chemical peels are carried out in salons with special equipment and tools. On average, you need to go through 4-6 sessions with a pause of 14 days between them to achieve optimal results. The first effect after the procedure will be noticeable around the tenth day.
Types of chemical peels
Chemical peeling can be performed not only on the face, but also on other exposed areas of the skin - neck, décolleté, shoulders, arms, and so on. In this case, the procedures can differ in the methodology and the degree of the depth of exposure to chemicals.
Currently, the following types of chemical skin cleaning are distinguished:
- Superficial peeling … In this case, lactic, glycolic, phytic, pyruvic, salicylic, azelaic acid and retinoids are used. They affect only the upper stratum corneum of the dermis. This is the fastest and easiest chemical peeling procedure. After it, a long period of restoration of the skin is not required, almost no crusts are formed on the skin, redness is only slightly manifested. The products used refresh and moisturize the face, eliminate minor age-related changes and a light network of wrinkles. They cope well with minor inflammatory processes, post-acne, light pigmentation. As a rule, it is recommended to undergo 4-6 procedures, one per week.
- Medium peeling … Trichloroacetic acid, salicylic acid, and Jessner's mixture are used. This procedure affects all layers of the skin. This is a more progressive method of peeling than a superficial one; it has a pronounced rejuvenating effect. Turgor of the epidermis, elasticity improves, and the density of the skin increases. The procedure allows you to increase the thickness of the layer of young epidermal cells, exfoliate old ones. Loose, wrinkled, pigmented, inflamed skin, as well as the dermis with traces of post-acne, scars becomes younger, fresher. With the correct procedure of the middle peeling, there is practically no discomfort, soreness, and the rehabilitation period is reduced to 7-10 days. At this time, small crusts may come off, redness persists. The recommended course of median chemical peeling is 4-6 procedures, once a week.
- Deep peeling … For this procedure, phenol derivatives are used. This type of peeling affects all layers of the skin, significantly violates its integrity to "blood dew". This is a rather traumatic effect that helps to rejuvenate the fading layers of the epidermis, to correct bright aesthetic imperfections. The surface of the skin is literally "burned" by phenol. The stratum corneum is completely removed, and the face becomes infant-like. The epidermis is renewed over time, along with the effective synthesis of the structure of the deep layers of the skin. This type of peeling is prescribed for people over sixty years old. As a rule, this is a local effect on areas of the face with significant aesthetic defects. Deep peeling removes deep wrinkles, laxity, scars, pigmentation. Such a procedure is quite traumatic and painful, therefore, it is carried out under anesthesia in an operating environment and requires adherence to bed rest after it. In addition, phenol is toxic and creates a large lesion on the skin. Therefore, the face after such a peel requires careful careful care to avoid infection and long-term recovery. The resulting crust should come off on its own; in no case should it be peeled off. Redness can persist on the face for up to two months. It is strictly forbidden to allow direct sunlight to come into contact with the skin.
Indications for a chemical peeling procedure
Chemical peels of any type should be prescribed by a physician - beautician or dermatologist. To calculate the acid concentration, the patient is examined, the degree of age-related changes, the oily skin, the thickness of the stratum corneum, existing problems and inflammatory processes are determined.
Chemical peeling with acids is prescribed in such cases:
- A large number of acne and post-acne;
- Dark spots;
- General tiredness and aging of the skin - earthy tint, uneven texture;
- The presence of scars and scars;
- Excessive fat content of the epidermis and the presence of enlarged pores;
- Expressive and pronounced wrinkles, ptosis, loss of skin tone and elasticity;
- Acne, comedones;
- Rosacea.
Chemical peeling can be recommended both at a young age (20+) and mature (60+). At the same time, the difference during the procedure will be only in the concentration of chemicals and the choice of the required substance.
Sometimes it is prescribed as a preparatory procedure before more serious aesthetic manipulations.
Contraindications to chemical peeling
Despite the impressive number of indications, it should be remembered that chemical peeling is an aggressive procedure for the skin. Therefore, it has its own contraindications. These can be relative or absolute guidelines.
The absolute contraindications for which chemical peeling is completely prohibited include:
- Inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions of the epidermis;
- Increased individual sensitivity of the skin to the components used in chemical peeling;
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding;
- Epilepsy;
- Exacerbations of any chronic diseases;
- Viral ailments, accompanied by an increase in body temperature;
- Hypersensitive skin, tendency to form keloid scars;
- Oncological diseases;
- Diabetes;
- Hypertonic disease;
- Various mental disorders;
- The presence of open wounds on the surface of the skin;
- Skin phototype 4-6 according to Fitzpatrick.
It is also forbidden to carry out deep peeling to patients who have recently undergone radiation therapy or have taken Roaccutane for seborrhea.
There are a number of relative limitations to chemical peels. In this case, the decision on the possibility of carrying out the procedure is made by a specialist.
This category includes the following contraindications:
- Herpetic eruptions;
- Couperose;
- Various neoplasms - moles, warts, papillomas;
- Period of menstruation;
- Children and adolescents;
- Exposure to laser and phototherapy, retinoid peeling in the last six months or less.
Also, most likely, the specialist will advise you to postpone the procedure if you have a strong sunburn, the need to use certain medications.
How to do chemical peels
It is recommended to carry out chemical peeling in a beauty parlor. Only a specialist will be able to calculate the correct concentration of substances, taking into account the needs of the patient's skin and existing problems.
Let's consider the main stages of this procedure:
- Preliminary preparation of the skin for subsequent manipulations is carried out. Usually, within 10-14 days before the procedure, the epidermis "prepares" to accept the substances during the peeling. For this, special creams are used, which are based on acids of low concentration.
- The skin is cleaned and degreased immediately before the procedure.
- A cotton swab is moistened in a chemical solution and wrung out thoroughly so that the liquid does not get into the eyes.
- The substance is gently rubbed into the skin surface for 30-60 minutes. The solution is applied in layers starting from the forehead, followed by the nose, cheeks and chin. The duration of the procedure is determined depending on the existing defects.
- Especially intensively, the substance is rubbed into places where there are mimic and deep wrinkles.
- Two layers of silk and cotton adhesive plaster are glued to the face. Thus, the chemical remains in the correct concentration on the face for as long as possible. The mask of the patches is left on the face for a couple of days.
- During the removal of the mask, the specialist treats the epidermis with an iodine compound, which will accelerate the healing of the lesions.
- The face is covered with a layer of cotton wool. After a day, it is removed, and care after chemical peeling for the skin rests on the patient's shoulders. For this, the cosmetologist prescribes special means.
As a rule, in 7-10 days with superficial and middle peeling, the scabs from the face completely disappear. Deep peels take longer to regenerate.
Skin care after chemical peeling
To minimize the negative effects of chemical peels and speed up the skin's regeneration process, you should follow the recommendations for facial care. It is imperative to use special creams, balms and lotions prescribed by a specialist, which will allow the skin to recover as quickly as possible after traumatic exposure.
As a rule, it is recommended to purchase caring post-peeling cosmetics in the same salon where you performed the peeling procedure. Despite the rather high price of such funds, their use will maximize the effect of the procedure.
If you cannot afford expensive cosmetic care for injured skin, you can use Panthenol and Bepanten products, which moisturize and regenerate the epidermis well.
Thermal water at room temperature also softens the skin and eliminates post-traumatic edema. Products containing glycolic acid should be excluded from care products.
It is also extremely important to apply sunscreens and balms with a factor of at least 30. Even in cloudy weather, it is necessary to apply the cream before leaving the house. Direct sunlight is strictly not recommended during skin regeneration.
It is not allowed to independently remove the crusts from the surface of the face after peeling. This can cause scarring or scars to form.
Effect and undesirable consequences of chemical peeling
Chemical peeling belongs to the category of indirect procedures. It activates the rejuvenating processes in the epidermis. Therefore, the effect of these cosmetic manipulations will be noticeable only after 2-3 weeks. During this time, the skin is restructured and completely renewed. To achieve the best result, it is recommended to carry out a superficial and medium chemical peel every six months during the period of lack of solar activity. Any complications after the procedure are divided into groups: immediate (up to 14 days) and delayed (14-70 days). Most often, they occur when the rules for cosmetic manipulations are not followed, the type of peeling is incorrectly prescribed, as well as skin care products during the rehabilitation period.
Negative reactions from the epidermis can be various dermatitis, prolonged redness of the skin, the appearance of pigmentation, the formation of scars, edema and blisters on the face, severe itching, irritation, exacerbation of herpes infection.
After chemical peeling, skin care and moisturizing requires particularly careful care, as an additional feeling of tightness and dryness may occur.
Real reviews of the chemical peeling procedure
The most popular is the middle peeling, which allows you to achieve good results without significant damage to the skin and long-term rehabilitation. We invite you to read the reviews about the procedure.
Veronica, 31 years old
I regularly cleansed my face and once asked a beautician about chemical peeling. She advised to do it before the end of February, because in March active sun already appears, which negatively affects the skin after it. I managed to do one procedure before the end of winter. I note that I have oily, rash-prone skin, with enlarged pores and uneven pigmentation. The beautician recommended peeling with light fruit acids - superficial. I applied the drug in two layers. There was a burning sensation of medium intensity, quite bearable. On top of the acid, a special neutralizing gel was applied, which did not allow the active ingredients to penetrate too deeply under the skin and damage it. In the first couple of days after the procedure, the face was swollen and resembled severely burned. It was impossible to wet it, touch it with your hands. After three to four days, a crust appeared, which over time began to peel off, like after a sunburn. Ugly, but not painful. However, the result was worth the pain: the skin was noticeably evened out in color and relief, the pores were narrowed, shallow mimic wrinkles were gone. In general, I am satisfied, because I have noticeably freshened up. Of the minuses - long-term rehabilitation, the need to use sunscreen, and the procedure is not pleasant.
Gayane, 29 years old
I was ill with demodicosis, and after the tick my skin was in a terrible state. I went to a beautician to put myself in order, and he advised me to do a chemical peel. Previously, I did peeling with fruit acids, but in this case, the specialist recommended a TCA peel, since my face was in a deplorable state and a superficial effect would not help me. The procedure is, of course, very painful. There was a desire to jump up from the couch in pain and stop this torment. I fanned myself as best I could, but the relief from him is very weak. After peeling for another week, the skin was all the colors of the rainbow, swollen and inflamed. But after healing, it should be noted, the effect pleased me. I finally feel my skin clear! The pores have narrowed, there is no "dirt" left in them, the relief has leveled off, the unhealthy redness has gone. I definitely recommend the procedure, but only to those who are not afraid of pain and long healing.
Lyudmila, 54 years old
I did chemical peeling for the first time. My doctor immediately warned me that the procedure is painful, then the skin heals for a long time. But I nevertheless decided at the beginning of winter, so that less sun rays fell on my face. First, the skin was cleaned with a scrub, then they began to apply layers of acid. It hurts, of course, but bearable under anesthesia. I am not a lady of the "gentle", and therefore survived the procedure tolerably. I was more depressed by the period of skin rehabilitation, while it all slid, peeled off. For about two weeks, people were ashamed to go out. Fortunately, I had a vacation. But the result was quite satisfactory to me. Pigment spots, small and medium wrinkles are gone, the oval of the face has become more toned, the "flews" have disappeared, the relief of the skin has leveled off. In general, my "ordeals" were justified.
Photos before and after chemical peeling
How chemical peels are done - watch the video:
Chemical peeling is a procedure that allows you to achieve significant rejuvenation of the skin, eliminate aesthetic imperfections. Exfoliation of the upper layer of the epidermis under the action of acids triggers the natural processes of regeneration and restoration of skin firmness, elasticity and turgor.