Description of the plant, types of anthurium, recommendations for the maintenance and care of anthurium in indoor conditions, reproduction and fight against diseases and pests. Anthurium (Anthurium) is a bright representative of the diverse variety of Aroids (Araceae), which has up to a thousand species. Sometimes anthurium is called a flamingo flower. But nevertheless, if we decompose the word anthurium itself, then in the Greek language it consists of two terms flower (anthos) and tail (oura). Anthurium amazes with the variety of its forms, it can grow as a herbal plant above the soil, a creeping liana-like plant with long shoots, atmospheric or semi-atmospheric, there are species adapted to live on rocks. Almost the whole year, regardless of the season, the leaves of anthurium do not change their color, and the plant does not shed them. The native habitat of growth is tropical and subtropical forest areas of the center and south of the American continent, as well as among the very humid territories of the south and east of Asia.
Under natural conditions, the root system of some of the species can reach several meters and hang from trunks or branches to the very surface of the earth. Anthurium leaf plates are striking in their beauty and variety and can be: whole, slightly incised and with deep cuts. The size can vary from a few centimeters to a meter in length. Leaves vary with a shiny, glossy surface, covered with a delicate velvety, with prominent bright gray veins or patterned patterns. In natural conditions, anthurium leaf plates can "follow" the sun's rays, turning after them.
The main difference between anthurium is the shape of its flowers, for which the plant is so popular. Anthurium flowers are small and original in shape, gather in a very dense group-inflorescence, which rises above the bract leaf. This bright leaf looks like a blanket enveloping the long cylindrical tube of the inflorescence. It is like a bright "tail" sticking out of a flower and can take the form of a spiral, an elongated cone, and maybe in the form of an elongated ball and various colors.
The flowers that make up the inflorescence are square or diamond-shaped. The petal is wrinkled and, meanwhile, with a bright and glossy surface, painted in a wide variety of shades - rich scarlet, lilac, wine, pure white, greenish. The aroma of flowers also differs in types, can be delicate and slightly perceptible or strong and suffocating, exude either a pleasant note or stench.
The flowering process can take all year round, the dermal flower can last up to a month without spoiling, if the lighting is chosen correctly. After wilting, if pollination has occurred, then anthurium can grow fruits of amber or ocher-colored berries.
The main types of anthurium for indoor breeding
- Anthurium Andre (Anthurium andraeanum). Native habitat Colombian southwest or northwest Ecuador. It mainly settles in the mountainous areas of humid subtropical forests. It is an epiphytic plant with an atmospheric root system and a rather short stem. The leaf plate is shiny, as if lacquered, painted in a rich emerald hue and has a long petiole. Leaf sizes vary from 30 cm to 40 cm in length and almost 20 cm in width. The halves of the leaf at the base are clearly defined and have large parts. The flowers are collected in a group of elongated cylindrical shapes and differ in pastel colors: milky, yellowish or white. The length of this cylinder is generally 10 cm, but sometimes it grows up to 15 cm. The sheet-bedspread is heart-shaped, with beautifully outlined wrinkles on the surface, it can take on bright shades: pure white, pale pink, orange-pink or wine. Occasionally, bubbles appear along the entire side of the bedspread, or it can be cast with metal. One flower can last up to 4–5 weeks, even when cut. When the flowering process is completed, the bracts does not wither or dry out, but becomes denser and changes color to green.
- Anthurium bakeri (Anthurium bakeri). It grows in humid wooded Colombian or Guatemalan areas. The plant leads an epiphytic lifestyle. At the very base, the stem has a slight extension of 10 cm. The shape of the leaf plates is elongated and wide, resembling elongated knives. Dense leaves can be up to half a meter in length and only 3 cm to 9 cm in width. The outer side of the leaf has a reddish-brown speck and barely noticeable lateral veins. The flower stem extends up to 30 cm in height and at the top has a short inflorescence (about 10 cm), which is much inferior to the leaf plates. The bract leaf with a wrinkled surface casts a pale green-yellow tint. The color of the inflorescence is milky, the fruits-berries that appear after fertilization are bright red.
- Crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum). It grows in tropical forests and mountain ranges of Panam and Peru. An epiphytic plant with a very small stem with a bottle base that can be buried in the soil. The leaf plates are very decorative, have a velvety surface with a dark emerald color. The entire outer side is distinguished by light symmetrical veins, they are painted in silvery tones and are covered with a crystal sheen. The shape of the leaf is a rounded oval from the side of the base, a heart-shaped outline at the petiole and a narrowed elongated apex. Sizes range from 20-40 cm in length and 15-22 cm in width. The leaf petioles are short in shape, resembling a tube, the peduncle is much longer (up to 40 cm). The inflorescence is cob-shaped (about 2 cm long) and has a pleasant delicate aroma that occurs when stamens appear, mostly purple in color. The petal-veil reaches 10 cm long and 5-9 cm wide, colored with red-violet shades or greenish.
- Anthurium majestic (Anthurium magnificum). The habitat of the Colombian mountain slopes in tropical regions. May have a root system buried in soil or atmospheric. With its leaf plates it resembles Crystal Anthurium. The petiole of the leaf plate has a square cross-section. The plant has a high growth rate. The leaves are the largest and exceed the size of the anthurium varieties Scherzer and Andre, in diameter they can reach 40 cm. The surface of the leaf has a velvety rich emerald surface and is all permeated with whitish veins. The bedspread is very large.
Also used for breeding in indoor conditions Scherzer's anthurium (Anthurium sherzerianum), Hooker's anthurium (Anthurium hookeri), climbing anthurium (Anthurium scandens), anthurium polyschistum anthurium, five-leafed anthurium aphyllurium.
Tips for caring for anthurium at home
- Lighting. Although anthurium is a resident of tropical zones, it absolutely cannot stand the scorching sun rays; diffused, soft lighting is preferable for it. It also perfectly tolerates its location on the north window, the only thing that flowering may not come. With the reduction of the sunny day, for normal flowering, it is better to supplement the anthurium with special lamps.
- Air humidity. Anthurium loves very high air humidity, which can exceed 90%, dry air is detrimental to the plant and it can be affected by pests. To maintain the necessary moisture in the air in the root zone of the anthurium at the very base of the stems, it is recommended to cover it with sphagnum moss or a material that can absorb moisture and keep it at the root system. Also, the plant loves regular spraying with softened water; for this purpose, you can use the collected water after rain or thawed water. During flowering, it is necessary to carefully spray the anthurium so that water droplets do not fall on the inflorescences, as this will accelerate their loss of decorativeness. At this time, it is best to wipe the sheet plates with a soft sponge dipped in water.
- Content temperature. Drafts are the main enemies of anthurium. He is very fond of constant moderately warm temperature indicators. The temperature for a plant should fluctuate between 20-28 degrees during the hot seasons of the year, and the rest of the time the temperature limits are 15-16 degrees. On average, it is preferable that the temperature indicators do not fall below 18 degrees. Only cultivated varieties of Scherzer require a cool wintering for one and a half to two months at low temperatures of 12-16 degrees and an almost complete cessation of watering - this will be a condition for the successful laying of buds and subsequent flowering.
- Watering anthurium. For irrigation, you can collect rainwater or get it from snow. If this is not possible, then the water can be softened by boiling, settling for several days or immersing a cloth bag with peat soil in it, at least for one night. It is best to water the anthurium abundantly, but the water that is glass from the pot must be immediately removed from the pot holder so that the root system of the plant does not rot because of it. With the onset of cold weather, watering is reduced by almost half, and the temperature of the content is supposed to be lowered. The main task is to prevent waterlogging and waterlogging of the substrate in the pot. Watering should be done when the topsoil is dry.
- Fertilizer of anthurium. In order for the anthurium to receive the necessary complex of minerals and organic compounds, then with the beginning of its growth, it is recommended to use top dressing once every half a month. Fertilizers are taken for flowering indoor plants in a concentration that is more than twice as indicated by the manufacturer. It is possible, along with irrigation with fertilizers, to apply foliar dressing, to spray leaf plates diluted in an even lower concentration of fertilizer. Also, sometimes top dressing is applied to the soil using rotted crushed foliage, water-infused chicken manure or horse (cow) manure.
- Blooming anthurium. In order for the flower buds of the plant to develop successfully, and for the flowering to be long, the plant needs cool "wintering" - a decrease in temperature to 12 degrees and an almost complete reduction in watering. With this kind of care, the process of forming flower inflorescences can last the entire summer period, and in some varieties (anthurium) Andre, this process can take the whole year. When the flowering process has stopped, it is recommended to remove the inflorescences so that seeds do not form, and this does not take away the strength from the plant. If it is nevertheless necessary for the seeds to set, the flowers are artificially pollinated using a clean, soft brush. The cut inflorescence can be admired for a month, but if the flowers were poorly developed, then wilting will occur in a couple of days.
- The choice of soil for anthurium. The soil for the plant should be completely non-acidic with a reaction not higher than pH 5, 0-6, 0. The substrate for planting is chosen light enough, which has good moisture and air permeability, saturated with nutrients, and the ability to retain anthurium. With these indicators, the composition should not thicken over time. For better drainage, finely crushed bricks or shards are poured at the bottom of the pot, fine expanded clay can be used. The composition should include horse land, finely chopped sphagnum moss, peat soil in proportions (1: 2: 2), or rotted leaves, peat, coarse sand, finely chopped bark of pine or trees, charcoal are added to the soil mixture. You can use components - with coarse fibers, leafy earth, cut bog moss, light horse earth in proportions (2: 1: 1). Anthurium can live well in hydroponics.
- Anthurium transplant. For transplanting, the time is selected when the plant has started to grow - from the end of winter to the end of summer. The root system and stems must be handled very delicately, as they are quite fragile. When installed in a new pot, it is chosen deeper than the previous container, since it is necessary to cover the young roots with soil. For young plants, transplants can be performed at annual intervals, and for adults, once every 3-4 years, in a soil mixture richer in nutrients. It is better to choose anthurium pots from plastic than from ceramics, since the soil temperature in plastic will be higher. After transplanting, if necessary, you can slightly prop up the plant until it completely takes root in the new soil. With sufficient development of atmospheric roots, which provide air access to the plant, they must be wrapped in moist moss, with subsequent growth, the roots will reach the soil in the pot and take root.
Anthurium breeding methods
Anthurium is most conveniently propagated vegetatively or with the help of seed.
Reproduction of anthurium can be carried out using shoots of stems or cuttings from the tops. Stem processes, in the presence of a developed root system, are easily separated from the main stem of the maternal anthurium, and they must be transplanted into pots of suitable size with a substrate for adult plants. If the roots are not yet in sufficient quantity, then these shoots can begin to be rooted in moistened sand or perlite. Then it is necessary to arrange the conditions of a mini-greenhouse, covering the stems planted in the substrate with a plastic bag to maintain the temperature and humidity necessary for rooting. Cuttings can be rooted in the same way.
Since anthurium flowers of both sexes, with successful artificial pollination, a fruit appears in the form of a berry, in which the seeds ripen within 10 months. Seed germination is very low and therefore must be quickly harvested immediately after ripening. The seeds are separated from the pulp and thoroughly washed first with clean water, then with a solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are immediately planted in prepared loose soil, slightly squeezing into the substrate. Then a thin layer of perlite is poured into the container to retain moisture in the soil. The container with seeds is covered with glass or plastic bag. If the temperature is maintained within 20-24 degrees, then seed shoots appear in 2 weeks. The development of the first shoots is very slow and the transplantation into separate pots begins when a real leaf appears on the parish.
The plant has very poisonous young shoots and if the juice gets on the skin or mucous membranes, there may be allergic reactions or intestinal disorders.
Pests and possible difficulties in caring for anthurium
Most often, anthurium can be affected by aphids, scale insects, mealy worms, spider mites. The fight against these pests is carried out using modern insecticides.
When the leaf plates begin to dry actively from the edges, anthracnose is possible, fungicides are used for treatment. Blackening of the tips of the leaves means excess salt in the water during watering. If the leaf plates began to curl intensively, the room is dry air or the plant has stood under the scorching sunlight.
More about anthurium care and transplantation in this video:
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