Features and varieties of pakhira, requirements for watering, feeding, lighting, advice on reproduction and transplantation, signs of diseases and possible pests. Pachira (Pachira) is an unusual and exotic plant, the habitat is saturated with moisture in South America or Brazil. Another name is the "bottle tree". Belonged to the category of baobab or bombax. With its leafy plates it resembles chestnut leaves, for which it is called the chestnut from Guiana or Malabar. Translated into Russian, pakhira means "plump" and the appearance of its trunk proves this name. At home, pakhira is grown because of its luxurious crown, which does not change its green color throughout the year and a kind of trunk. This plant looks most beautiful when the stems, at a young age, were intertwined and formed a semblance of a pigtail and pakhira grows in the form of a bonsai. But this is already a human whim.
Like any "bottle tree" pakhira can accumulate moisture reserves at the bottom of its thick trunk. In the structure of the trunk, between the parts of the wood and the bark, there are sinuses in which water accumulates. The plant in natural conditions can grow up to 20 m in height. But in indoor conditions, its growth slows down very much and only with careful care of pakhira will it reach 2-3 m. However, at the same time, the deciduous dome can reach 1.5 m in diameter. When young shoots of pakhira grow to a height of 2 m, their abundant begins branching. Pakhira does not bloom under indoor conditions.
Types of pakhira
Pakhira appeared in our flower shops relatively recently, and many flower growers have not yet encountered caring for this unusual plant. Although the family includes 24 specimens, but at home they breed most often Pachira aquatic.
- Pakhira water (Pachira aquatic). The native area is the humid forests of South America. The size of the expanded and thickened stem at the base depends on the conditions in which the pachira grows. The leaf surface has a complex shape in the form of fingers with a wrinkled surface, saturated green. Under natural conditions of growth, pakhira blooms with white and yellow flowers, from which a peduncle of a sufficiently large (up to 35 cm) diameter is collected in the form of a panicle. Pakhira bears fruit with light green berries in the form of an ellipse, which quickly lignify and are up to 25 cm in length. Inside the berries are brown-skinned seeds that are fried or eaten raw.
- Round-leaved pakhira (Pachira rotundifoloa). This species is dominated by shoots stretching along the ground. If you want to have a hanging look of pakhira at home, then this particular plant is used.
- Pakhira silver (Pachira argyreia). According to the name, this type of pakhira has a silver color in the leaf pattern, and this variety is sometimes used for indoor cultivation.
Pakhira care at home
- Lighting. Pakhira, as a representative of tropical areas, is a big lover of good lighting. But for this exotic, diffused light is still suitable and it is better to look for a place for a pot on the windows, where the sun will not burn all day. If there is no other way out, how to put the pakhira under bright rays, then it is better to shade them with light curtains. In the warm months of the year, pakhira can be taken out into the fresh air, but make sure that no precipitation falls on it and the sun does not burn. If pakhira is not gradually accustomed to bright light, then leaf plates may burn.
- Content temperature. Naturally, for pakhira, you need to create a warm, homely atmosphere. It is preferable when the temperature does not rise above 25 degrees during the summer season and does not drop below 14 degrees during the colder months. It is necessary to protect the plant from drafts. If this is not followed, then pakhira's illness cannot be avoided.
- Air humidity. Oddly enough, a resident of the humid tropics perfectly tolerates the dry air of apartments. However, if you spray it, it feels much better. The basic rule is that a lot of moisture does not get on the pakhira trunks, otherwise it will lead to the fact that the tree will begin to rot.
- Watering. Pakhira is very demanding on water quality. Watering must be done with well-settled water, at least 2 days. In this case, the water softens, and alkaline and lime impurities leave it. The water temperature should be warm, even warmer than room temperature. A well-balanced watering regime must be maintained. Since with insufficient moisture, the leaf plates become lethargic and hang on petioles, and when waterlogged, the pakhira is exposed to various rot. The plant needs to be watered again only when the layer of earth on top of the pot dries out. From April to September, watering is moderate, and in winter it is very rare, but it must be remembered that the pakhira cannot stand a prolonged drought, although it can feed on moisture from its own reserves for a long time. When adding water to the pot, you need to strive to do it carefully and avoid moisture getting on the trunk, since excess water will lead to the death of the plant.
- Top dressing. It is best to use fertilizer with a complex of mineral substances for pakhira, since the soil in which it is planted is not very nutritious. The dosage indicated by the manufacturer can be left unchanged. This procedure should take place once a month during the warmer months of the year. During the winter months, pakhira is not disturbed by the application of fertilizers.
- Transfer. Like all young plants, pakhira seedlings are recommended to be replanted annually before reaching the age of two. After this time has passed, when the plant has already become an adult, this procedure can be carried out no more often than once every 2-3 seasons. A new pot for pakhira is chosen with a diameter of 4–5 cm larger than the previous one and they try to take a wide and not deep flowerpot. Since the root system of the pakhira does not go too deep into the soil, with a great depth of the pot, rhizome diseases begin and the plant begins to wither. The new soil mixture must have good air and moisture permeability. For this, a mixture of sod soil, leafy soil and sand is made up, which are taken in equal parts. To improve the qualities, finely ground brick and particles of charcoal or ash are added to this mixture. Also, if you do not want to mess around with self-compiling a soil mixture, then you can purchase soil for growing palm plants or dracaena in flower shops. It is imperative to make high-quality drainage in the pot so that there is no stagnation of water.
- Pachira circumcision. In order for the pakhira to acquire a beautiful and luxurious crown, it is necessary to prune branches that are too elongated. For this, a neat cut is made during active spring growth. Often, in this way, they form the desired shape of the leaf mass - it can be in the form of a ball or an oval. If the "haircut" is not done, then the pakhira is very extended by the stem in height, therefore it is necessary to independently form the crown of the tree and regulate the height of the plant. It is also important not to tighten the young stems too tightly when weaving young stems, as this can lead to their breaking off. While the pakhira seedlings do not keep their shape on their own, they can be tied for a while with improvised means (twine or rope). As soon as the trunks become more mature and absorb moisture well into the middle, they begin to retain their preset appearance, then the retaining material can be removed.
- Pachyra trunk formation. Young shoots of pakhira have excellent flexibility of the trunk and this allows you to create a decorative appearance at the early stages of plant growth. For this, several shoots are planted in a pot and during growth, unnecessary leaf plates are removed. The trunks themselves can fly into a pigtail or create other forms, but such a formation lasts to give the plant a presentation for more than one season.
Reproduction of pakhira at home
Most often, pakhira is propagated by seeds or by cutting cuttings.
In order to obtain young seedlings from seeds, it is necessary to take fresh seed material, since germination will decrease with prolonged storage. The dishes for disembarkation are taken wide and flat. The seeds are practically simply poured onto the soil and almost do not cover them with earth; they are sprayed with warm water. Create the conditions for a mini-greenhouse by covering the container with seeds with a plastic bag or a piece of glass. Good soil heating is important, practically up to 25-27 degrees. The greenhouse must be ventilated frequently and moisture drops must be removed. Saplings appear in about three weeks.
To propagate pakhira by cuttings, it is necessary to cut the branches at the end of the summer season. The stalk itself must have a "heel" - a piece of the trunk. And it is imperative to observe high humidity and heat, as well as for seeds, the cuttings are satisfied with greenhouse conditions.
Since it is difficult to be sure of the quality of the seed material, it has a very short shelf life, and cuttings need to be cut from the mother plant, and not every grower grows it, then if there is a desire to care for and grow pakhira, then naturally it is better to purchase a ready-made plant.
Diseases and pests of pakhira
The main harmful insects that affect pachira are spider mites, thrips, scale insects, aphids. All these problems are solved by spraying the plant with insecticides.
From the diseases of pakhira, all kinds of rot are emitted, which affect the trunk of the plant, if the soil is waterlogged or a lot of moisture gets on the trunk. If the surface of the trunk began to rot, but the lesion site is not very large, then it can be cut out with a very sharp disinfected knife, and then sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection. In case of large-scale damage, you can try to root the top of the pakhira to save the plant. An indicator of the health of a pakhira is a trunk that is firm to the touch.
If the leaf plates at the edges have acquired an unaesthetic brown edge, then the air in the room is too dry, the plant is standing in a draft, or the watering was disturbed and it began to dry out. When the temperature in the room is not high enough for pakhira, the leaves begin to lose elasticity, curl up and turn brown at the edges.
If the pakhira stands in strong shade and the lighting that falls on it is not enough, then the trunk begins to lose its stem thickening (the "bottle" look disappears) and all the beauty of the plant is lost - it stretches very much upward.
If the pakhira stands under the scorching rays of the sun, then the leaves are burnt, they begin to turn pale and dry.
For more information on caring for pakhira, see this video:
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