Description of cyanotis, its individual varieties, conditions of detention, methods of reproduction, the main methods for combating diseases and pests. Cyanotis (in Latin Cyanotis) belongs to the class of perennial herbaceous plants that are part of the large Kommelin family (in Latin Commelinaceae). Habitat - the tropics of the African continent and the Asian region. Cyanotis got its name from a combination of words in Greek - Kyaneos and ous (obis). The first one stands for a light blue tint, and the second one stands for the ear. A similar name was given to the plant because of its specific shape.
The overwhelming majority of cyanotis species are perennial herbs, but there are several varieties that are classified as annuals. The plant is prized for its beautiful appearance with spectacular flowers and soft, fleshy leaves, the surface of which is covered with dense fluff.
The presence of such natural pile on the leaves serves not only for decorative purposes, since such a mechanism was created by nature to protect against direct sunlight and reduce moisture loss. Experienced breeders will note the similarity of drooping cyanotis shoots with the common Tradescantia.
The plant is mainly grown, like all ampelous plants, that is, hanging in pots and letting the stems hang beautifully under their own gravity. The main reason for the popularity was the beautiful flowers, which appear in abundance during the corresponding period and have a delicate shade - from violet-blue to reddish.
General recommendations for growing cyanotis
The plant is extremely unpretentious to cultivation conditions, which largely contributed to its widespread distribution, both among experienced florists and amateurs. It is not difficult to create favorable conditions for cyanotis, and in return it very soon begins to delight with beautiful overgrown stems and leaves that densely cover the entire surface in the pot.
Thanks to the structure of the leaves and the dense cannon on them, the plant is resistant to direct sunlight and is not afraid to do without water for some time. So, if you accidentally forgot to water it, then this will not affect the aesthetics of the appearance. At the same time, it should be remembered that the resistance of cyanotis to aggressive external conditions, although very high, still has its limits, therefore the lack of watering or a long stay under the scorching rays of the sun will lead to the fact that the lower leaves can fade and fall off, and the upper begin to curl up into a tube.
To exclude the harmful effects of sunlight in hot weather, the plant is best placed on the windowsills of the western and eastern sides. At the same time, it does not need to be additionally sprayed or worried about the humidity of the air. Moreover, under damp conditions at low temperatures, cyanotis leaves can become vulnerable to the development of putrefactive processes.
In winter, the plant feels comfortable in normal indoor conditions. But if there are sources of heating nearby that excessively dry the air, then the cyanotis leaves may begin to dry out. Therefore, for cultivation, it is better to choose cool places where the temperature ranges from 10-15 degrees Celsius. Watering is carried out as the top layer dries completely.
For cultivation, shallow wide pots are used, since the roots of cyanotis do not grow large and do not require space. There are no special requirements for the substrate. The only thing is that there should not be a lot of humus in the soil and it is advisable to add at least a quarter of the sand to it. Otherwise, the dense pubescence necessary for them may not appear on the leaves.
If the substrate itself is not rich in nutrients, then it can be periodically fed with ordinary mineral fertilizers. During the period of active development, plants do this, as a rule, once a month. Despite the fact that cyanotis is classified as a perennial plant, it retains its decorative properties only for several years. Therefore, it needs to be updated periodically. Reproduction usually takes place using seeds, stem cuttings or by dividing the bush. When cuttings are planted, planting occurs in a loose substrate, and the plant does not need to be covered with a film or jar on top, since high humidity harms the cuttings of cyanotis.
Cyanotis varieties
- Cyanotis of Kyu (in lat.cyanotis kewensis Clarke). This species is classified as a herbaceous perennial plant, the creeping stems of which are densely covered with leaves. The arrangement of the latter resembles the laying of tiles on the roof, and their shape is described in botany as heart-lanceolate. A single leaf stretches 3-4 cm in length, and up to 2 cm in width. In the warm season, the plant is decorated with small flowers of various shades - from bluish-purple to red. Kyuke cyanotis is native to South India, where it grows on the rocky slopes of the Cardamom Mountains.
- Cyanotis somali (in lat. Cyanotis somaliensis Clarke) found in dry regions of East Africa. The appearance of this plant is similar to that described above. Distinctive features are: white hairs, densely covering the stems, and longer leaves. The flowers are small, about 1, 3 cm in diameter, and their shade is usually deep blue or purple. They are located singly, but in some varieties they can form dense short inflorescences. In England, this type of cyanotis is called "furry ears", as its leaves are characteristic puffy, and cover their dense whitish pubescence.
- Cyanotis knotty (in lat. Cyanotis nodiflora) differs in erect stems. Pointed leaves of a linear shape stretch up to 20-30 cm in length and up to 5 cm in width. During flowering, knocked down sessile inflorescences are formed, located in the axils of the upper leaves. Petals of small flowers with a diameter of 0.5 cm are usually pink, but some varieties also show a rich blue.
Cyanotis care
- Lighting for the most part, it should be soft, diffused, but at least 3 hours per day the plant should be exposed to direct sunlight. If the leaves of cyanotis acquire a rich purple hue, then this indicates an overabundance of light, and active elongation and thinning of the stems, on the contrary, about its lack. Due to these features, it is best to place the flowerpot near the windows of the western and eastern sides. In winter, natural light will not be enough, so it is worth trying to arrange additional sources of it.
- Climatic conditions. The plant tolerates heat well, but it feels most comfortable at a plus temperature of 18–20 degrees. In winter, cyanotis rests, therefore, without any negative consequences, it withstands a decrease in temperature to 11-12 degrees, however, it is not necessary to specially cool the room, since it is quite comfortable in normal room conditions. In the summer, the optimum temperature is 20-25 degrees, the flowerpot cannot withstand excessive heat. It is not necessary to specially humidify the air in the room where cyanotis grows, but you should pay attention so that the plant is not near heating sources in winter, as this can negatively affect its appearance.
- Watering with the active development of cyanotis, it is carried out with settled water no more than 2 times a week. You need to focus on the condition of the soil, which should not dry out unnecessarily, but water stagnation should not be allowed. In winter, watering is carried out 2-3 times a month, while in each case moisture should be avoided on the leaves so as not to provoke the appearance of putrefactive processes in their sinuses.
- Top dressing carried out during the flowering period twice a month, using for these purposes universal fertilizers intended for ornamental home plants.
- Transplant carried out twice a year, using light soil with good drainage. The substrate can be used purchased or prepared independently. In the latter case, take a peat, humus, sod or leaf mixture, be sure to add one quarter of coarse sand to it. If you choose a ready-made soil in a store, then you can take any universal substrate, since cyanotis does not impose special requirements on it. The main thing is not to choose a soil of high acidity and monitor this indicator when applying fertilizers, so as not to cause the appearance of "burns" on the leaves of the plant or lead it to death in especially severe cases.
Preservation of the decorative qualities of cyanotis
After the plant was brought into the house and set to develop in some place, then it will not be possible to displace it from there without a short-term loss of decorative properties. It is important to know about this, so as not to worry why cyanotis, after moving, shows signs of wilting. The fact is that it is very sensitive to the light source and after changing the angle, it takes time for it to adapt.
In addition, it must be remembered that the spectacular decorative properties, unfortunately, do not last long, since the plant is rapidly aging. Therefore, every minute of the beauty that cyanotis gives to others should be appreciated, because it will disappear rather quickly. To prolong youth, you need to periodically prune the stems and regularly pinch its new shoots, preserving the vital juices.
If the species of Somali cyanotis is chosen for breeding, then it will have to forcibly arrange a rest period from October to February, providing a lower storage temperature.
Reproduction of cyanotis
You can get new plants by cuttings and with the help of seeds, which are formed in the fall in special boxes at the places of the peduncles. For planting seeds, take an ordinary slightly moistened soil. Containers with seeds are covered with glass or foil and shaded. Lighting will be needed only after the first shoots appear.
Cuttings are carried out in the spring, using soil for planting, consisting in equal parts of sand and peat mixture. It is not necessary to cover the cuttings with a jar or plastic wrap, since excessive moisture in this case is not beneficial.
The last type of reproduction of cyanotis is similar in its process to another related plant - Tradescantia. But the rooting of the latter is much easier, since its cuttings are taken into growth at any time of the year. It is not recommended to repeat such experiments with cyanotis, since it takes root exclusively in the spring, and the roots start growing only in water. In our latitudes, it is better to plant cuttings not earlier than mid-April.
Possible difficulties in growing cyanotis
The following are the main alarming symptoms that every amateur grower who grows cyanotis at home needs to know about:
- Periodically drying and falling off the lower leaves should not cause alarm, if this phenomenon is not of an intense mass character, since under normal conditions this is a natural process of renewal. As soon as a separate leaf dries up and turns yellow, it must be eliminated so that it does not interfere with the appearance of a new one.
- If the leaves of cyanotis show signs of decay, yellowing and thinning, then, most likely, the flowerpot should be exposed to direct sunlight so that excess moisture evaporates. In this case, the affected leaves are removed.
- The loss of its natural saturated shade by the leaves, as well as the elongation and thinning of the shoots, indicates an insufficient level of illumination. Symptoms like this usually appear frequently during the colder months of the year, when the plant lacks natural daylight.
- If the leaves acquire a deep purple color, then the flowerpot needs to be moved to the shade, since in most cases this indicates a negative reaction to the abundance of sunlight.
- The appearance of mucus and sticky substance indicates the appearance of harmful insects. How to deal with them is described below.
The main pests of cyanotis
- Aphid is one of the very common pests that are dangerous to all indoor plants. For prevention purposes, first of all, you should carefully check only purchased flowerpots and those that show a weakened, painful appearance. Comfortable conditions for aphid breeding are dry warm climate. In conditions of high humidity, the colony stops multiplying, but this can be dangerous for the cyanotis itself. Therefore, the best way would be to use special drugs. To date, special formulations have been developed that do not harm the environment and are safe for people. It is difficult to single out any one drug here, so you can ask for advice directly from the sellers. When applying aphid control agents, you need to be careful not to let them get on flowers and buds, otherwise it can spoil the aesthetics of the appearance. If a colony of aphids was discovered after it had already grown strongly, then perhaps you should immediately go to the most effective way to eliminate parasites - treating cyanotis with insecticides. Whichever product is chosen, spraying will need to be repeated 2-3 times with intervals of 2-3 weeks to reduce the likelihood of aphid reappearance to a minimum.
- Spider mite. If aphids are visible to the naked eye, it will be much more difficult to spot small mites. Usually, the results of their activity are already visible in the form of the formation of a cobweb and damage to leaves. The first way to combat this pest can be regular rubbing alcohol. Cotton wool is moistened in it and the leaves and stems are carefully wiped. The only drawback of this method is that it is effective only in the fight against the insects themselves, but it will not neutralize the laid eggs, from which offspring will then appear. Along with alcohol, you can also use a soap solution, for which ordinary laundry soap is rubbed and dissolves in water. With this composition, the plant itself is carefully treated, as well as the pallet with the pot. The top layer of soil, in turn, will also be useful to treat with soapy water, but you need to be vigilant so as not to damage the roots. Excessive zeal is a common mistake of many flower growers, when an earthen lump after processing turns out to be soaked through and through. As a result of such actions, the cyanotis will begin to dry out and will soon die, therefore, the procedure for combating spider mites must be carried out without excessive fanaticism. If the damage to the leaves and stems is already too noticeable, then it is necessary to use special toxic drugs. Conventional insecticides against harmful insects will not give the desired effect.
- Shield. To combat this pest, you will have to eliminate it manually. A simple increase in humidity, as with aphids, or applying alcohol / soap solution, as with spider mites, will not help here. The parasite should be removed by mechanical means. In this case, you can use the means at hand. For example, a used toothbrush is perfect for this purpose. It is recommended to use a cotton swab dipped previously in karbofos or Aktar. At the initial stage, until the scabbard has multiplied, it is also eliminated by spraying cyanotis with special insecticides. But in those cases when the pest colony has grown strongly, the only way to fight will be the one described above - mechanical.
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