Here you will find out how the production of cosmetic cream originated, which oils were the basis of the product and how these products were divided according to their composition and purpose. Creams are a popular form of skin care cosmetics. This product is used by most of the population, regardless of age. Of course, there is a particular demand for cosmetics that fight wrinkles, dryness and sagging skin.
The uniqueness of the cream and its history
The history of the cream dates back to the ancient world, when primitive people began to moisturize and protect their skin from the negative effects of the external environment (wind, frost, sun). They lubricated the skin with oils extracted from animal and vegetable fats, used minerals donated by nature. These medicinal products were enriched with various floral waters, herbal infusions, additives from plants, etc.
Since we are talking about the history of cosmetics, it is worth mentioning the sages Ptahotep and Imhotep, they were the ones who prepared ointments based on plants and aromatic oils for the priests and pharaohs.
The healer Hippocrates was engaged in the preparation of unique recipes for aging skin; he passed on his knowledge to many followers, including Diocles.
The cult of cleanliness and hygiene was adhered to in ancient Greece. First, the face and body were washed and cleansed, then the procedure for applying special nourishing and moisturizing creams took place.
As for the oils used in the formulations of creams, olive oil played the main role in the Mediterranean, the tribes of Africa took raffia palm oil as the base of the cream, but in Oceania they used a mixture of palm and castor oils.
In ancient Rome, Claudius Galen, while still the personal physician of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, created a full-fledged cream from rose hydrolate, almond oil, beeswax and rose absolute. This cosmetic creation called "cold cream" perfectly moisturized and nourished the skin, but, at the same time, slightly clogged the pores, the wax did not allow the skin to be fully saturated with oxygen.
A modern cream, however, like many hundreds of years ago, consists of fatty substances, water or hydrolate, as well as active ingredients. Since fat does not dissolve in water, emulsifiers are included in the formulation.
What categories are cosmetic creams divided into?
Entering a cosmetics store, a wide variety of creams are revealed, which can be sorted by composition (fatty and emulsion), as well as by purpose (nutritious, moisturizing, cleansing, healing, etc.). Each type of cream is marked with one or another characteristic, all thanks to the carefully thought out recipe of the manufacturers.
Compositional classification
According to their composition, creams are divided into fatty and emulsion ones. The first option is based on stearin, petroleum jelly or lanolin, which are enriched with vegetable oils, vitamins, essential oils and other medicinal components.
As for the smell of such products, it does not in any way determine the quality of the product. Typically, flavoring ingredients are added so that the smell of the fat base is not so pronounced.
In turn, emulsion creams are divided into emulsions:
- Oil-water (oil droplets dispersed in water).
- Water-oil (water particles in oil).
If the oil-water emulsion cream is used as a moisturizing cosmetic, then the other type is not a liquid consistency, but a thicker one, and is aimed at effectively fighting wrinkles, excessive dryness and other skin problems.
Classification by purpose
Having sorted the creams according to their intended purpose, we get the following groups: cleansing, nourishing, moisturizing, mattifying, rejuvenating, anti-cellulite, sunscreen, protective, tonal, medicinal, children's (diaper), day and night.
- Cleansing Creams are intended for cleaning the skin from dust, dirt, as well as from the remnants of not completely washed off makeup. On sale you can find milk that gently affects the skin, a cleansing jelly or a thicker consistency, all of them are able to care for the stratum corneum. It is recommended to keep such products on the face for literally two minutes, then rinse with water (if it is gel or milk), use a napkin or cotton pad. For better cleansing, the skin is gently massaged with fingertips. Pay attention, if you choose a product for oily skin, look into the composition, whether there are components that normalize the work of the sebaceous glands.
- Nourishing creams are commonly used as nighttime skin care products. Their functionality largely depends on the composition of the product. Some creams fight pigmentation, others fight dryness, still others fight spider veins, etc. In nourishing creams, the oily phase takes up a greater percentage than in daytime moisturizers. They are also noted for the presence of various active substances that effectively cope with the tasks set. Apply the cream on your face 2 hours before bedtime, after a while, remove the remainder with a napkin.
- Moisturizing cream should be used by all people, regardless of skin type. Even if you want to get rid of oily shine on your face and think that there is no need to use such a cream, any skin needs moisturizing. The composition of such a product includes substances that prevent dehydration, these include vitamins, hydroactive components and enzymes.
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Protective equipment help the skin to cope with the negative effects of the environment. Wind, frost, heat, ultraviolet light - all this and not only makes the skin age, makes it more permeable, contributes to the appearance of age spots, wrinkles and other skin problems. The skin is a natural shield that prevents viruses, dirt, chemicals from entering and damaging organs, so it needs to be regularly looked after, moisturizing and nourishing with useful elements.
Protective creams allow the body to restore the skin, prevent moisture loss, and also prevent harmful substances from penetrating into the deep layers of the skin.
- As day creams can use matte and tonal emulsions. In addition to being able to mask imperfections in the skin, these products moisturize the skin and contain sunscreens and various vitamins. If you compare matte products and foundation, then in the first version you will get a cream that is easily absorbed and makes the skin matte, improving the situation of oily sheen on the face. The main elements of foundation, consisting of dyes in an amount of 3 to 25%, are makeup and powder.
- NightLike daytime creams, creams must be listed in a woman's cosmetic bag, because while you sleep, such products saturate the skin with nutrients, restore the stratum corneum, fight acne, rosacea, inflammation, etc. Good creams are noted for the content of vitamins A and E, royal jelly, panthenol, aloe vera gel and other components that have a beneficial effect on the skin.
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TO anti-aging creams can include products containing fruit acids. AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are aimed at slowing down the aging process of the skin by dissolving substances that hold dead cells together, and, subsequently, accelerating the exfoliation of the skin. Using creams with acids, thereby, you improve the processes of cell renewal, reduce and prevent the appearance of wrinkles and age spots. As a result of the use of products with ANA, which include citric, malic, tartaric, grape, lactic, kojic acids, the skin becomes more elastic and smooth.
If you have already purchased an anti-aging cream with acids, do not rush to apply it on your face, because first you need to conduct a sensitivity test. Take a small amount on your wrist and watch for irritation, itching, or flaking on your skin. If the test is successful, you can start accustoming your face to acids. For home use, a cream is suitable, which contains no more than 4% acids, otherwise, the caring procedure will turn into a disappointment due to the appearance of severe irritation of the epidermis. As for beauty salons, a large concentration is used there, while the instructions for the use of drugs with such substances are strictly observed.
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Sunscreens play an important role in slowing down skin aging, because they are aimed at protecting the epidermis from ultraviolet radiation. These products should be used by everyone, regardless of gender and age. To consider sunscreen among the large assortment of goods, look for the abbreviation SPF on the package or sort out the composition. Physical filters form titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Let's note some of the chemical filters used to make creams against UV exposure:
- Avobenzone. It can be seen under the following names: butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl-methane, Eusolex 9020, Parsol 1789, Escalol 517, BMBM, BMDBM.
- Mexoril. He is: Mexoryl SX - terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, TDSA, ecamsule; Mexoryl XL - drometrizole trisiloxane, ecamsule.
- Octocrylene. This filter can be hidden under the names Uvinul N539T, Eusolex OCR, OCR.
- Tinosorb. Look for it under bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, anisotriazine, Escalol S, BEMT, bemotrizinol Tinosorb S Aqua, MBBT, bisoctrizole methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol.
There are also natural filters that include base oils, including raspberry, shea, carrot, jojoba, coconut, avocado, wheat germ. You should not rely only on natural oils as protection from the sun's rays, it is better to choose a good product containing oils, physical and chemical filters.
