General signs of fatshedera, description of conditions for growing at home, recommendations for transplanting and watering, independent reproduction, species. Fatshedera belongs to the numerous Araliaceae family, considered by botanists to be dicotyledonous, since the seed embryo has a division into two cotyledons, oppositely placed. The family also includes 46 genera of representatives of the flora. The plant was bred about a hundred years ago, or rather in 1910-1912, by crossing Japanese Fatsia (Fatsia japonica Dence. Et Planch) - a plant with highly decorative leaves and common ivy (Hedera helix), with creeping and flexible shoots. The French botanists, the Lise brothers, were engaged in its selection. The plant bears its name by merging the names of its two green "ancestors" - fatsia and heder.
Fatskhedera is an indoor evergreen liana, the height of which can reach a meter or two meters; in natural conditions, branches can grow up to 5 m. Usually, it needs to be supported. Young shoots eventually begin to lignify, that is, the stem, which at the very beginning of growth grows straight and practically does not branch, begins to become covered with bark and takes on a creeping form of growth. However, it still remains thin and flexible.
Leaf plates of this liana-like plant of a dark green color, divided into lobes-lobes (just like in fatsia, which took its name from the Japanese word "fatsi" - eight, the number of lobes in a leaf). The surface of the sheet is glossy and shining. Some varieties are distinguished by a beautiful edge of a whitish or yellowish tone, which gives great decorativeness to the lobes. The diameter of the entire leaf can be 35 cm, but the lobes-fingers of the leaf plate are measured 5-11 cm in width. Each blade has a slight sharpening at its apex, and an elongated elliptical shape. The petioles are long, their size sometimes reaches half a meter, and at least up to 10 cm. The leaf seems to sit on the petiole, taking an almost horizontal position.
And just like in Fatsia, this liana blooms with small and nondescript flowers of a green-yellow hue, from which inflorescences are collected in the form of umbrellas. These inflorescences are apical - located at the very end of the shoots. In flowers, the diameter rarely exceeds 3-4 cm. The plant is bisexual - it has male and female flowers. The flower is divided into five ovoid petals. The sepals are very small, almost invisible at first glance, but looking closely you can notice the green serration around the bud.
The growth rate of the fatshedera is very high, and therefore it is constantly necessary for it to be pruned and crown formation. Typically, within a year, the stems lengthen by 30–40 cm. After its appearance, the plant immediately won the love of flower growers, since it does not require special conditions of detention. With its help, it is customary to plant greenery not only in the garden, columns of gazebos and terraces, but also to create phytocompositions or phtowalls. As a support, it is customary to use decorative lattices, a tube covered with moss or other support that supports the heavy shoots of the plant.
The most famous variety is Fatshedera Lizei - it can reach stem lengths of several meters. The diameter of the contour of the leaf plate reaches 20–25 cm. Finger-lobes, the number of parts can vary from 3 to 5 units. The color is predominantly a rich emerald hue, however, there are variegated forms that are more capricious in care. The surface is leathery, wrinkled and more dense than fatsia leaves. It is extremely difficult to wait for this plant to bloom. Whitish-greenish flowers gather in umbellate inflorescences. Varieties with variegated leaves have been bred, such as:
- "Fatshedera Lizei Variegata" the edges of the lobes-lobes are painted with cream or whitish shades;
- "Fatshedera Lizei Anne Mieke", which has a light green color in the very center of the leaf.
Varieties that do not have patterns on the leaves are stronger and more hardy, however, growers note the greater attractiveness of plants that have spotting or a border of a contrasting color on the leaves.
After flowering, a drupe appears so dark blue that it can be mistaken for black. The fruits of the plant are inedible. The life span is approximately seven years.
Fatshedera care recommendations
- Lighting and placement. The plant is very much loved by many growers for the fact that even a beginner can cope with leaving. Fatskhedera does not require special conditions for its location in the room. Like most representatives of the green world, the plant feels comfortable on the windows of an east or west orientation, but on the south side, bright sunlight will have to be shaded a little, because of which the tips of the leaf lobes may dry out. Of course, the fatskhedera will not wither on the window sills of the windows of the northern location, only the variegated forms will soon lose their decorative color - they require more light. And in general, it is advisable to arrange a supplementary light there with special phytolamps, the same is done for plants located on other windows and the arrival of winter. When spring comes, many growers plant the plant in open ground, carefully choosing the place and soil. However, it is more comfortable for a Fatsheder to grow in a winter garden.
- Content temperature. At room rates, the fatskhedera shows its growth quite well, but it is better for her to winter in cooler conditions than her progenitor of fatsia. Best of all, when they are kept within 10-15 degrees. As soon as the temperatures stabilize in the spring, and there will be no morning frosts, then you can take the bush into the garden or terrace, balcony, but choose a place protected from gusts of wind (it can break off the stems) and bright sun (cause burns on the leaves).
- Watering fatsheders. This liana-like bush is a big lover of moisture, therefore, in the summer, they carry out abundant and frequent moistening, they just make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, as this will inevitably lead to the appearance of gray rot or rotting of the roots. With the arrival of autumn, soil moistening ceases, and they must be performed every 10 days. It is necessary to focus on heat indicators during watering: if the temperature is above 20-25 degrees, then moistening is carried out once every 3-6 days, and if it is below 10-12 degrees, then once a month, if the heat is even less, then the soil is moistened once for 2 months and little moisture. Just like fatsia, the plant quickly reacts to the drying out of the earthen coma, the leaves immediately droop, and the crown of the plant loses its decorative effect and it will be difficult to return to its previous appearance, it will be necessary to tie the leaves to the supports.
- Fertilizers for fatsheders they are used from April days to September - at this time there is an active growth of shoots. Complex mineral solutions are selected, the plant also reacts well to feeding with organic matter, but it is better not to use fresh solutions (for example, mullein). Top dressing should be alternated. The frequency of fertilization is once every 10 days. It is recommended to stop feeding in the autumn-winter months.
- Transplant and soil selection. It is necessary to change the pot or substrate with annual regularity in the spring, as well as as necessary if the root system has completely mastered all the soil in the container. During transplanting, it is necessary to install a support with a container that is large enough for the plant, sprinkle it with a layer of drainage material (expanded clay) to 1/3 of the support height, only then it will be stable and withstand the weight of the fatshedera shoots. The stems are attached to the support using woolen threads or non-rigid wire. At the bottom of the tub, it is necessary to thread small holes to drain moisture that has not been absorbed by the roots.
The soil for planting should be with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction in the range of pH 6–7, but some growers choose soil with an acidity of pH 6–6.5.
If the soil mixture is compiled independently, then the following options are used:
- sod soil, peat soil, leafy soil, river sand (in proportions 2: 2: 1: 1);
- sod, leafy soil, coarse-grained sand and pine bark chopped into pieces (parts are taken in proportions of 2: 2: 1: 1).
You can add a little humus to the soil. Approximately once every 2-3 weeks, it is required to gently loosen the topsoil. If the substrate becomes saline, you will have to change it 4–5 cm from above to a new one. The plant grows well in hydroponics too. If the heat indicators do not exceed 19 degrees, then the fatshedera can do without any additional means of raising the humidity level. Otherwise, you will have to raise the indicators by any available means:
- spray the leaf mass with soft water;
- put mechanical humidifiers next to the plant;
- wipe the sheet plates with a soft sponge or cloth dipped in water;
- shower the plant if it has not grown too much;
- to install vessels with water next to the fatskheder pot, which, evaporating, will increase the importance of air;
- put the pot in a deep and wide container with water poured at the bottom and a layer of expanded clay or pebbles, just make sure that the water level does not reach the bottom of the pot.
But if the thermometer began to show less than 15 degrees, then the humidification is stopped.
Self-breeding fatsheders
You can get a new evergreen liana-like plant by cuttings, planting air layers, seed material, and dividing the bush.
With the arrival of spring (late March-April), a shallow incision is made on the trunk, and it is covered with sphagnum moss moistened in a phytostimulant or nutrient solution (about a gram of complex mineral fertilizer dissolves in a liter of water). Then a food or plastic wrap is wound over it. This structure is required to periodically ventilate and moisten the moss; overdrying must not be allowed. After some time, roots will appear at the incision site. It is necessary to wait about two more months for the root shoots to increase in length, and then the top with the roots is cut off and planted in a pot with drainage at the bottom and soil poured over it. This method is propagation by air layers.
Also, with the arrival of spring, you can cut branches from the tops of the shoots of Fatshedera and try to root them. The cuttings should have several buds ready for development. Twigs are planted in pots with a mixed substrate of equal parts of peat and sand. Then the container with cuttings is placed under a cut plastic bottle or glass blank, you can wrap it with plastic wrap. This will help not so quickly evaporate moisture in the surface of the soil and leaves, and retain the necessary heat, its indicators should be at least 18 degrees. After the cuttings take root and the buds move into growth, it is required to transplant the plants by transferring (without destroying the earthen coma) into large pots with soil that is suitable for adult specimens. You can wait for the roots to appear in the cuttings by placing the branches in a container with water and, after the root shoots appear, plant them in pots with drainage and soil.
The plant is propagated by planting seeds in a pot filled with a soil mixture of turf, leaf humus and coarse sand in equal parts. It is required to plant a seed no deeper than 1 cm. Then wrap this container with a plastic bag. Heat indicators during ripening should not be less than 18 degrees. When a couple of young leaves appear on the seedlings, you can pick in separate pots. In the future, young fatsheads are placed in a warm place with sufficient lighting, but shaded from bright sunlight.
During transplantation, the bush is divided so that the roots are not injured once again. The root system is carefully divided or cut with a very sharp and disinfected knife. Slices must be sprinkled with activated charcoal or charcoal crushed into powder. The trays are then planted in pots with drainage material at the bottom, supported by a support and suitable moistened soil.
When the plant is still young, it is recommended to carry out regular plucking of the tops of the shoots, this will ensure their good branching.
Problems in the cultivation of fatsheders
Of the difficulties that may arise when growing a plant, there are:
- with insufficient lighting, variegated forms lose their color;
- if the air humidity is low, then the tops of the leaf lobes become brown and dry;
- waterlogging of the soil will lead to yellowing of the foliage and its discharge.
If the conditions of keeping fatshedera are violated, then this will entail fungal diseases, such as gray rot, the causative agent of which is Botrytis. This disease begins if the plant is kept in a sufficiently cold and damp room. The lower part of the stem acquires a brown tint and begins to rot over time. Then a fluffy bloom appears, dark gray, and sometimes with a brown tint, color - this is a layer of fungal spores. It is urgent to remove all affected parts of the plant, move it to a warmer and drier place with good lighting and set up an irrigation regime. Treatment with fungicides is also carried out. If this is not done, the Fatskhedera will die.
Pests can be distinguished:
- Red spider mite. Reddish, silvery and pale yellow spots appear on the leaves, on the inside there are whitish specks (pest eggs), if you shake the leaves over a clean sheet of paper, the insects fall off and they are reddish in color.
- Shield. This pest leaves a sticky sugary bloom that covers the leaf plates and stems of the plant, as well as insect eggs are clearly visible on the back of the leaves in the form of brownish specks. Lykish sweet bloom can lead to sooty fungus attack.
- Thrips They pierce the leaf plates with their proboscis and suck out the vital juices from the Fatshedera, therefore dots similar to pin pricks are clearly visible along the edge, after which new leaves appear strongly deformed, turn yellow and fall off.
- Aphid is visible on the stems and leaves of the plant in the form of small green and black bugs and also secretes a sticky coating, leading to fungal diseases.
In order to fight the listed harmful insects, sparing folk remedies are used that are applied to a cotton swab and manually remove parasites from the leaves or stems of the fatshedera. As solutions, you can use:
- soap composition - 30 gr. Laundry soap is crushed, diluted in a bucket of water and left to infuse for several hours, then this solution is filtered and ready for use;
- the oil mixture is made with 1 g rosemary essential oil. diluted in a liter of water;
- as an alcohol can be a tincture of calendula, which is sold in pharmacies.
After wiping the plant, you can also spray the bush and the place where the vine pot stood. If folk remedies did not help properly, then it is worth using chemistry - systemic insecticides (for example, "Aktara" or "Aktellik").
See how the fatshedera lese looks like in this video:
