Noticing the label "paraben-free" on the label of cosmetic products, many immediately grab the chosen product and run to the checkout, but let's find out in more detail what this preservative is. The content of the article:
- General information
- The concept of "parabens" and their types
- The harm of parabens
- Alternative to parabens
- TOP 3 products without parabens
In the modern world, almost every woman and girl regularly uses cosmetics and personal care products. Our morning begins with cosmetic procedures and our day ends with them. But not every one of us thinks about what we put on the skin and what effect our favorite cosmetics have on it, including substances such as parabens.
What are parabens
The ancestor of all parabens is benzoic acid, which has been used for over 400 years. In the 16th century, it was first isolated from benzoic gum and used in the process of preserving fruit. Thanks to the scientist from Germany, Justus von Liebig, in 1832 the structure of benzoic acid was determined, and 43 years later Ernst Leopold Salkovsky, a German physiologist, in addition to antimicrobial function, also discovered antifungal function. By the way, acetylsalicylic acid, which is also aspirin, was invented on the basis of salicylic (hydroxybenzoic) acid. Since 1925, parabens have been taking part in the process of preserving products, their effect is very high, compared to benzoic and salicylic acids, it's all about high efficiency and low concentration of use.
Throughout the entire existence of parabens, there are disputes about their dangers in the composition of cosmetics. Despite this, it is impossible to find even one law or regulation prohibiting their use. If large corporations are trying to find a solution by minimizing preservatives in their products, then small businesses are more likely to be looking for an alternative.
How can we - daily users - be afraid of parabens and make natural cosmetics at home? Or not pay attention to scientific hypotheses and without fear continue to use the usual means?
Types of parabens
Parabens are not an invention of scientists, but are natural substances that are found in a wide variety of plants. Benzoic acid, for example, is abundant in cranberries and lingonberries, which is used in herbal medicine as antimicrobial agents, in some situations it is used by patients with kidney disease. For the treatment of wounds and burns, willow bark is used, which contains hydroxybenzoic (salicylic) acid. In blueberries, you can easily find methylparaben, which is assigned the role of antimicrobial agent. And this is not the whole list of natural parabens.
Synthetic parabens are often included in products with a high aqueous phase. So in purchased pastries and cakes, as well as in bread and butter, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben are contained. Under E218, E214, E216 are hidden preservatives that lengthen the shelf life of products, thanks to this content, sauces, mayonnaises and ketchups can be stored in the refrigerator for much longer than a few days.
Parabens are widely incorporated into products by cosmetic companies. Shampoos, shower gels, shaving gels, conditioners, toothpastes, deodorants, masks, creams, decorative cosmetics, etc. - they all contain components that prevent delamination and unusability. The complete absence of preservatives in cosmetics of a decorative and medicinal nature is impossible.
The concentration of parabens can vary depending on the shelf life of the product and the form of release. For example, parabens are rarely found in aerosol deodorants, since the cylinders are hermetically sealed, which means they do not really need preservatives, which can not be said about dry deodorants, which contain the most parabens, because they are more active than others in contact with air. A similar situation is observed with deocrems squeezed out of the tube. Roll-ons to neutralize sweat odor occupy an intermediate cell in terms of paraben content - between aerosol cans and dry sticks.
The primacy in the use of parabens is given to the pharmaceutical industry, which presents for sale liquid dosage forms (drops, tinctures, syrups, etc.), soft dosage forms (ointments, gels, suppositories, etc.), gelatin capsules and even materials for dressings. Just remember the "talkers" that could be bought at the pharmacy only with a prescription and which were marked with a shelf life of just a couple of days. With parabens, however, as well as with other preservatives, products would not spoil so quickly.
Parabens are classified into the following types:
- Ordinary - methylparaben (E218), ethylparaben (E214), propylparaben (E216), butylparaben, benzylparaben.
- Specific - isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, benzylparaben and their sodium salts.
In addition, preservatives also carry such names as para-hydroxybenzoates, propagin, metagin, hydroxybenzoic, hydroxybenzoic acids, etc.
The danger of parabens
Everything related to the composition of cosmetics has always caused a storm of bewilderment, and parabens were no exception. Even in their relatively short history in the field of cosmetology, which has only a couple of decades, their reputation has been repeatedly damaged. So in 2004, British scientists conducted a series of studies, the result of which was the conclusion that preservatives are endowed with the ability to accumulate in the tissues of the mammary gland. Parabens were found in 18 out of 20 breast cancer samples. The work of scientists did not prove that these substances stimulate the development of the disease, but nevertheless the result of the study itself was not so comforting, and persecution of parabens began. 6 years after the study, the Scientific Committee on Mass Consumption Products of the European Union stated that there are no sufficient reasons to assert about the dangers of propyl and butylporaben, but their number in the formulation of products should definitely be reduced from 0.8 to 0.19%. In March 2011, Denmark became the first country to ban both of these parabens in products for children under 3 years of age. Not only that, many deodorant and antiperspirant companies have removed these preservatives from their formulation.
Scientists warn that parabens are similar in effect to estrogens, which means that for whom estrogen is contraindicated (especially for pregnant women), one should be careful about using a product with parabens in the composition. Butyl-, isobutyl-, propyl-, methylparaben are noted with a pronounced extragen-like effect. There is a fact that a preservative is an estrogen imitator only after it enters the body with food.
Women who care about the condition of their skin try not to sunbathe in the sun too much, because direct sunlight is the enemy of the youthfulness of the skin. Studies have shown that methylparaben applied to the epidermis has a detrimental effect on the surface, enhancing the effect of ultraviolet radiation. Moreover, a preservative can not only accelerate the aging process of the skin, but also damage DNA, cause allergic reactions, irritation and inflammation. If the body contains a large amount of parabens, this can lead to hormonal imbalances, as well as an increased risk of getting cancers of the reproductive system. It is worth noting that all this information requires further confirmation or refutation by scientists. So far, it has been officially announced that parabens are quickly absorbed, but also quickly excreted from the body. When it comes to cosmetics, then in the case of a normal type of skin, parabens are practically harmless.
What can replace parabens
If you have a question about an alternative to parabens, you should be aware that you are not the only one, specialists of large cosmetic corporations in the world are solving this problem. True, they have not yet come up with a replacement for a preservative similar in properties to parabens, which miraculously prevent the growth of bacteria. If you use alcohol or essential oils as a preservative, another problem may arise - excessive dryness of the skin, the appearance of allergic reactions. In any case, the production of cosmetics is not carried out without the use of preservatives.
If we are already talking about alternatives to the use of parabens, formalin should be mentioned, one of the first preservatives used by representatives of the cosmetic business. Formalin belongs to a number of cheap substances, it is noted for its excellent antiseptic properties, it allows preserving not only the product itself, but also the gas phase under it, due to its volatility. All these advantages are offset by the toxicity of formaldehyde and the extent to which it is carcinogenic, this preservative is banned for use in many countries, even when it comes to the manufacture of rinsed cosmetics.
It has long been used in household chemicals, as well as in cosmetics, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate. Their advantage, first of all, lies in their price attractiveness. It is worth noting the "new" preservatives - Biosil, Twister, until they have been studied in detail, which means it is too early to talk about any of their advantages or disadvantages.
Chloromethylisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, strong preservatives that are included in a very small dosage, should be treated with caution. From using the product with these substances in the composition, allergic reactions or dermatitis may appear on the skin. True, during the study of preservatives, they took large concentrations of substances, and not the dosage that is usually used for the manufacture of cosmetic products.
Recently, when choosing a cosmetic product, consumers are increasingly looking into the composition of the selected product, so as not to make a mistake with the purchase, which means that manufacturers should work hard to include safer substances in the formulation of products that extend the shelf life of emulsions.
If you do not want to deal with parabens, use cosmetics with vitamins E and C, extracts and propolis, instead of a preservative, essential oils are also used. Just remember, such cosmetics have a short shelf life, no more than two to three weeks, and you can store it only in a cool dark place, ideally in the refrigerator. It is impossible to completely protect yourself from parabens, because these substances can be found in food, medicines, toothpastes.
It is possible to determine if there are parabens in cosmetics by the composition. Take a look at the list of components used to prepare the selected product, this preservative has a characteristic ending "paraben" (butylparaben, propylparaben, etc.). Try to buy products with a short shelf life in a tube or package with a dispenser.
Very often, manufacturers produce creams in jars, the chosen type of container is a "gate" for bacteria and microbes, which can lead to stratification of the consistency of the product. That is why a large dose of preservatives is added to such creams. Despite the assertions of experts that the difference in the dosage of preservatives in the products presented in jars and in tubes is minimal, it still does not hurt to play it safe.
Popular commercially available paraben-free products
There are many paraben-free products on sale, including:
- Universal day cream for the face "AUR PLUS 5 in 1", Maurya - a product from an Indian manufacturer contains components that moisturize, slow down the aging process of the skin, and also remove harmful substances. The composition is saturated with almond oil, wheat germ oil, shea, vitamin E, Tulsi extract, etc. Volume - 50 ml, price - 410 rubles.
- Cleansing foaming gel for oily problem skin "EFFACLAR", La Roche-Posay - has a physiological pH 5.5, does not contain parabens, alcohol, dyes, soap, developed on the basis of thermal water. The product cleanses the skin of excess sebum, impurities and makeup residues, leaving it fresh and clean. To use, lather the product in the palms of your hands with a little water and apply to the skin with gentle movements. Volume - 200 ml, cost - 859 rubles.
- Intensive moisturizing cream "Arctic Aqua", Lumene - the product with a delicate texture allows you to balance the optimal level of moisture in the skin and provides deep hydration for a long time. The cream from the Finnish manufacturer contains the purest arctic spring water, which is enriched with minerals useful for the skin, and is used for normal and dry skin. Volume - 50 ml, price - 402 rubles.
Video review about parabens: