Peperomia (Peperomia) - deciduous, ornamental plant

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Peperomia (Peperomia) - deciduous, ornamental plant
Peperomia (Peperomia) - deciduous, ornamental plant
Anonim

General description of the plant, advice on the maintenance of peperomia, recommendations related to reproduction, transplantation and control of harmful insects, types of peperomia. Peperomia is a member of the Piperaceae family of approximately 1000 species. The main area of native growth is the tropical territories of the American and Asian continents. This genus can take many different forms: small houseplants with small leaves; large plants that are bred in tubs; curly or bushy. They can also grow on other trees, like epiphytic plants, or spread along the ground with their shoots, they also grow on rocks. Peperomia never changes the color of the leaf plates, depending on the season. It can be used as an ornamental plant in home cultivation or in flower beds. The very type of plant gave it its name; from the Greek language, peperomia is translated as pepper-like.

Peperomia reaches a height of up to half a meter, but there are specimens with a height of only 15 cm. The leaf plates also differ greatly in different varieties in shape, they can take an elongated appearance, rounded or heart-shaped outlines. The color of the leaves is striking in its variety, there are shades: light green, rich emerald, brown, olive, golden, silvery with stripes, with white and yellow spots, decorated with stains. The surface of the leaf plates is glossy or may have slight pubescence, it is wrinkled and rough to the touch; the edges of the sheet are one-piece. Peperomia roots can be tuber-shaped or wriggle underground.

Peperomia inflorescences have the shape of an ear or cob; rather small white flowers gather in them. Peduncles are quite elongated. Bushes that are very well developed can bear 10 to 15 inflorescences. After flowering in natural conditions, peperomia bears fruit with seeds, but in an apartment or office they cannot ripen. The flowering process occurs in the spring and summer.

All types of peperomias have the ability to kill bacteria of diseases that are in the air (streptococcal, staphylococcal, sarcins), therefore it is recommended to put pots with these plants in rooms where there are people suffering from colds. Peperomia itself develops very slowly, this contributes to the arrangement of several plants in separate containers.

Tips for keeping peperomia at home

Peperomia leaves
Peperomia leaves
  • Lighting. The content of peperomia depends on the color of its leaf plates. Unpainted emerald-colored leaves allow the plant to be positioned on windows that are never illuminated by the sun's rays. If the color of the leaves is quite decorative and there are stripes or spotting, then this type requires more illuminated places. In this case, windows with a south, south-east or south-west exposure are suitable. Naturally, during lunch hours, the plant will have to be shaded from the sun. Too bright light will contribute to the rapid wilting of the leaves and their deformation, and if there is not enough light, then the leaf plates will become smaller in size and lose their decorative effect. In the absence of an opportunity, these plants are in rooms with bright but soft lighting, they will have to arrange supplementary lighting with special phytolamps. In principle, peperomias can adapt to any conditions, the only thing that they absolutely cannot stand is drafts.
  • Content temperature. A decrease in temperature indicators has a rather detrimental effect on peperomia, therefore, with the arrival of autumn, the thermometer should not fall below 14 degrees. For this plant, it becomes a critical drop in temperature already up to 18 degrees during the winter months. But with the arrival of the warm months of the year, peperomia also prefers moderate heat, the indicators should fluctuate between 20-26 degrees.
  • Air humidity. Peperomia does not express demands on humidity in the air, its normal growth will be at rates of 40-50%. If the species has a glossy surface, it is recommended to periodically spray the plant with soft water, it can be rain, thawed, settled or boiled. Peperomias, which are distinguished by large leaves, are wiped with a soft sponge or gauze dipped in water to remove accumulated dust. But if in peperomia the leaf plates are slightly pubescent or have a wrinkled surface, then they cannot stand it at all when moisture gets on them. To increase humidity, you can place the plant in a large pot and lay layers of sphagnum moss around it (between the walls), which will be regularly moistened. Also, the pots are installed in trays filled with expanded clay or pebbles, onto which a little water is poured, the main thing is that the bottom of the pot does not reach the liquid. The plant is very fond of being in the kitchen, as it is filled with wet vapors.
  • Watering peperomia. The plant is watered systematically and in moderation, as soon as almost all the substrate in the pot dries out. When months with moderate and high temperatures come, this procedure is repeated once every 10 days, in cold weather watering is reduced to once every 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to try not to flood the soil in the pot, since peperomia has leaves and shoots filled with moisture (excess water accumulates in them) and if the watering becomes too abundant, this will lead to the rapid decay of the plant. If, nevertheless, the soil is flooded, then the plant will signal the formation of brown warty growths on the leaves. Irrigation water must be taken softened, this is done by sedimentation or filtration to remove harmful and lime impurities. You can also soften the water with sour peat - a handful of peat wrapped in gauze is dipped into a bucket of water overnight. It is important that for peperomias, the leaf plates of which are not so fleshy (for example, Sanders peperomia, gray-silver peperomia, etc.), watering should be carried out more often, since their water supply is much less than that of other species (for example, dull-leaved or clusielle). Their potted soil also dries well, but the pot should not become light enough.
  • Fertilizing peperomia. In order to feed the plant, it is necessary to choose fertilizing in liquid mixtures for house plants with a complex of minerals. This procedure is repeated at two-week intervals during the activation of the growth of peperomia (from the beginning of March to the first days of autumn). The dosage is taken halved than it is stated by the manufacturer.
  • Soil selection and transplantation of peperomia. If the peperomia variety is distinguished by small leaf plates, then it is recommended to transplant this plant annually. Plants with large leaves require transplanting every two years, or if the growth of peperomia has significantly slowed down - this indicates a strong compaction of the soil in the pot, it has become sufficiently compressed. The pot for transplanting is chosen only a little more than the previous one, since the root system of this plant grows little.

The soil mixture is chosen nutritious and loose enough so that it is difficult to arrange a plant bay in it. The selected land must have good air and water permeability. From purchased substrates, a universal soil is suitable for plants growing indoors, but it is possible to use a filler for palms or ficuses, but since they are too saturated with peat components, such substrates must be additionally lightened by introducing special leavening agents - perlite, agroperlite or vermiculite. Fine gravel or zeolite granules can also be used. The soil for peperomia should be acidic with a pH of 5, 8–6.

You can also compose a soil mixture yourself based on the following components:

  • leafy soil, humus soil, coconut substrate, fine gravel (everything is taken in equal parts);
  • leafy soil, humus, peat soil, river sand (in proportions 2: 1: 1: 1, respectively);
  • garden soil, leafy soil (humus), sod land, peat soil, coarse sand (perlite or any baking powder) (in proportions 2: 2: 2: 2: 1).

Reproduction of peperomia at home

Young peperomia in a flowerpot
Young peperomia in a flowerpot

For reproduction, methods of dividing the bush, grafting or planting seeds are used.

If peperomia has acquired rather large forms, then it can be divided into several parts during a planned transplant. This mostly happens during the spring months. The root system is cut with a well-sharpened knife, carefully separating the roots. It is recommended to sprinkle the cut sites with crushed activated charcoal or charcoal (for disinfection). Peperomias are planted in a substrate composed of leafy soil, humus soil, peat and coarse sand (in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1). On the bottom of the pot for these parts of the plant, it is necessary to lay high-quality drainage and the pot, of course, is chosen in smaller sizes.

If the peperomia is in the form of a bush, then reproduction occurs with the help of leaf plates, and if the plant has climbing or creeping shoots, then the cuttings should be stem. When breeding with leaves, a blade or a carefully sharpened knife is used, a healthy leaf is selected (it must be completely intact and not spoiled by pests or diseases). The leaf stalk is not made large, rooting takes place in a sand-peat mixture or in sphagnum moss, or you can put the leaf in water. To improve rooting, mini-greenhouses are used, where there will be constant temperature and humidity indicators. If the leaf is in water, then it must be changed in a day or two. After a month, the peperomia leaf should take root and it can be planted in a prepared container with a diameter of no more than 7 cm and a soil mixture of leafy earth, humus earth, peat and coarse sand (using the proportions described earlier). When the plant grows up and gets stronger enough, then the same care will be applied to them as to adult specimens.

In order to reproduce using cut cuttings, it is possible to take them from cut shoots during planned spring pruning. These can be cuttings, both the tops of the shoots and the stems. It is important that the number of nodes on the handle varies from 1 to 3 - this depends on the length between the nodes. Cuttings can be placed in water so that they begin to release roots or immediately planted in a soil mixture, which includes sand, humus and peat, taken in equal parts. Further, to maintain the required temperature (approximately 25 degrees) and humidity, cover the pot or vessel with cuttings with a plastic bag or a piece of glass. For successful rooting, it is necessary to regularly moisten the soil and ventilate the seedlings. After about 4 weeks, the cuttings take root and can be planted in pots, choosing a soil suitable for adult peperomias and also tending them.

If reproduction is carried out using seed, then they begin to sow it in early to mid-spring. The soil should include sheet earth and sand (in equal parts) and poured into pots of small diameter and depth. The substrate is moistened, the seeds are sown and covered with a polyethylene bag or glass. The rooting temperature is maintained at least 25 degrees. It is necessary to regularly moisten the soil by spraying it or pouring water through a sieve, and also ventilate the seedlings. If a second normal and developed leaf appears on the sprouts, then the steams can be transplanted into containers with the same soil, but at a distance of 2 cm from each other. The container must be placed in a place with bright lighting, protecting it from the midday rays of the sun. When young peperomias grow up and gain strength, they are transplanted into separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm. In the pot, it is necessary to provide good drainage from small expanded clay or pebbles, and then pour the substrate from 2 parts of sheet soil, 2 parts of peat soil, 1 part of sand, 1 part peat. They take care of the steams as for an adult peperomia.

Peperomia pests and problems in home cultivation

Root nematodes
Root nematodes

If the cultivation conditions are violated, then peperomia begins to be affected by multiple pests, namely: thrips, mealybugs, spider mites, nematodes or scale insects. The signal is the appearance of sticky plaque on the leaf plates and their yellowing, and the plant also stops growing normally. It is necessary to immediately apply modern insecticidal agents to combat these pests, otherwise the plant will die.

Problems are of the following nature:

  • leaf fall - insufficient watering of peperomia or too low temperature indicators;
  • the browning of the edges and tops of the leaves indicates sharp jumps in temperature or that the plant is standing in a draft;
  • rotting of leaves and stems began - the soil is flooded with water, and this happens most quickly when the thermometer reads below 16 degrees;
  • deformation and wilting of leaf plates began - peperomia is in direct sunlight.

Types of peperomia

Peperomia velvety
Peperomia velvety
  • Peperomia velutina (Peperomia velutina) lives in the territories of Ecuador. The plant is herbaceous and has been growing for many years. Stem erect, slightly pubescent and dark red. The leaf petioles reach one centimeter in length. The leaves are round, malachite in color, from the base of the leaf to the top, up to 5-7 veins, colored with light green tones, stretch, the surface can be bare or slightly covered with hairs, depending on the type of peperomia. Leaves grow on the shoot in a regular sequence. Flowers grow from axillary buds of leaves and reach 7 cm, look like spikelets.
  • Peperomia cusielite (Peperomia clusiifolia). The native habitat of the tropical forests of Venezuela. It has a grassy shape and grows for many seasons. The leaves are dense, sit on the stem, painted with emerald shades with a slight inclusion of red. They have a regular placement, they can grow 15 cm in length and 8 cm in width. The edge of the leaf is painted in purple, the top of the leaf plate is obtuse, and at the base the leaf has a wedge-shaped shape. There is a variety of variegate, which is distinguished by softer leaves and their variegated color: the edge of the leaf is reddish, the entire plate is shaded with yellow tones to the center, and the veins are highlighted with rich emerald colors.
  • Peperomia reddish (Peperomia rubella). This perennial plant is distinguished by a reddish tint of thin stems that branch well. Sheet plates are arranged in 4 pieces opposite each other. The sheet has the shape of an elongated ellipse, rather small in size. From above, the leaf is painted in green shades, and the reverse side is painted in red. The plant fell in love with flower growers for its decorative effect.
  • Peperomia marble (Peperomia marmorata). The native habitat is Brazilian territories. The plant is distinguished by its dense growth. It has a small height and grassy shape. The leaf plates are rounded and have the appearance of a heart, a malachite shade with brown veins, which are directed to the apex from the base.

There are many more varieties of peperomia that have unusual leaf color, shape or deformation on the surface.

How to care for blunt-leaved peperomia at home, see here:

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