Hair perm technology, an overview of preparations for creating curls, curling on hair of different lengths and with different sizes of curls. Perming hair is one of the most popular methods for adding volume and splendor. After going through this procedure, the hair easily takes on a given shape, and the hairstyle is maintained for a long time. This is a relatively recent technique that was developed in 1908. How long the hair will remain wavy depends on the chemicals used and the diameter of the curler.
Hair perm technology
Perms used to be quite a risky undertaking. It was detrimental to hair health. Modern technologies and preparations for curling are more gentle, they allow you to neutralize the negative effect on the curls.
Rules for preparing for hair curling
To curl your hair to be of high quality and safe, you need to strictly follow the instructions. There are several stages of the technological process that precedes the actual application of the curling product:
- Hair analysis … Analysis of the hair structure is carried out in order to select the optimal curling technology. Specialists in the salons evaluate the following parameters: strength, elasticity, hair type, density. Thick hair does not curl well, since the drug practically does not penetrate into the hair. But weak, thin hair, on the contrary, does not tolerate strong fixation perm. If the hair has low elasticity, then when curling it will stretch, but will not be able to return to its previous position. Curling will cause them to deform. Dry hair should also not be frizzy, it will tear and break.
- Head surface analysis … This step is mandatory in order to identify the presence of injuries or diseases of the scalp. Perming is contraindicated in this case.
- Skin sensitivity test … To carry it out, you should soak a cotton swab in a curling product and apply it to the skin behind the ear, leave for 10 minutes. In the absence of irritation, the drug can be used. If redness, rashes appear, then the product must be urgently washed off with a solution of hydrogen peroxide, and perm should be excluded.
- Drapery … This procedure should be performed to protect skin and clothing from chemicals. It is necessary to remove earrings, other jewelry from the head, glasses, tuck the collar and wrap a towel around the neck. It should be fixed so that water does not get on the clothes.
- Checking hair for a chemical … This procedure is carried out to determine the acceptable concentration of the curling product. To do this, a small strand of hair is separated, moistened with a preparation and left for a couple of minutes. The hair is then checked for breakage. If they remain strong enough, then they can be curled. If they look like tow, then the solution is too concentrated.
- Hair wash … The procedure for perm hair necessarily includes a preliminary shampooing. When you wash your hair, the scaly layer is loosened, and this allows for a better curling.
- Haircut … This stage is provided by the instructions for perm. It can be done before or after curling. In the second option, it is easier to make a certain finished shape of wavy hair.
After completing all the preparatory steps, you can start applying the curling solution and curling your hair on bobbins or curlers.
The choice of preparations for a perm hair
The principle of action of any drug for curling curls is the same: when chemicals are exposed to the hair, their structure changes, and they easily take on a new shape. The chemicals affect keratin, the protein in the hair. At the same time, cystine bonds between hair cells are weakened. Hair becomes deformed. Curlers or bobbins give the curls a new shape, and it is secured with a retainer. The latter restores cystine intercellular connections and fixes the shape of the curl. The most important characteristic of a perm product is its pH. Depending on what this indicator is, the drug can be acidic, alkaline and neutral. An alkaline preparation promotes softening and swelling of hair. Acidic, on the contrary, provokes hardening of the hair. There are several groups of drugs that are used to curl hair:
- Acid based … Such means provide better fixation. Can be used on all hair types. They have the strongest effect on the hair. Acidic formulations have a lower pH and will take slightly longer to perm. The components of acidic preparations penetrate into the hair more slowly.
- Alkaline based … This perm has a softer effect on the hair. It lasts for a shorter period of time and does not suit all hair types.
- "Japanese perm" … The basis of this composition is a lipid-protein complex. It is also gentle on the hair. The pH of this method is neutral and therefore suitable for almost all hair types. Even dry and damaged hair can be curled with this group of products.
- Amino acid based … Curling using this group of drugs allows you to restore damaged hair in the shortest possible time. True, it does not last long.
- Acid-based with thioglucolic acid … This kind of curling weakens the strength of the hair, so it is not suitable for all types of curls. It is not recommended for use on smooth, straight hair.
- Biowave … They are allocated to a special group. This new type of perm has become very popular lately. The curling composition is based on cysteamine hydrochloride. There are 3 types of biowaving formulations: for weakened or colored hair, for unmanageable hair that is difficult to curl, and for normal hair.
Almost all hair curlers are based on thioorganic compounds. It is they who contribute to a change in the structure of the curls. Manufacturers often offer several types of curling preparations: for coarse hair, normal, porous, colored, highlighted, difficult to curl, and others. As for fixatives, ready-made compositions are concentrated and non-concentrated. In addition, the retainers are prepared independently in beauty salons and at home. It is made from a mixture of water, shampoo and hydrogen peroxide. Moreover, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the mixture should not exceed 3%.
Compositions for perming hair at home
Nowadays, the cosmetic industry produces a lot of different compositions for perm, fixation and subsequent care. Therefore, you can even make a perm at home. True, for this you need to strictly follow the instructions for applying the drug to the hair, so as not to burn them. For home use, as a rule, products are produced in two consistencies:
- Gelatinous … Such formulations are conveniently squeezed out of the tube, they are easy to apply with a brush to the hair. Preparations in the form of a gel are convenient to use for curling overgrown roots on previously curled hair, for treating certain areas of the head, for curling the temple area in short men's haircuts. In such cases, they do not use curlers or bobbins, but a comb. The gel is applied directly to the hair and the comb is used to shape the hair.
- Foamy … This type of permanent is considered the most harmless for curling hair. As a result of its effect on the hair, they become more voluminous, and the curls are practically invisible.
The great thing about these hair curlers is that they are safe enough for home use. It is difficult to burn hair with them, and it is easy to apply them. Perm compositions are produced by such companies as Londa, Schwarzkopf, Wella, Estel and other manufacturers.
Selection of hair curlers
The curlers, which are used in the process of curling the hair, determine the type of future curling. The most popular are the following types of perm:
- On papillotes … These are long foam sticks with a metal rod inside. They help create natural soft waves.
- On hairpins … This type of curling is suitable for short hair. Studs must be special, non-metallic.
- On bobbins … This is a versatile fine curler for a perm. They are rubber, wood, plastic.
- On curlers … They must be made of plastic for perm. Due to the different diameter of the curler, you can achieve different effects on the hair.
In addition, there are many types of fixing curlers on the hair, which also makes it possible to achieve interesting effects. For example, it has become popular lately to make a curling "on a pigtail". In this case, the strands are braided into pigtails, the ends of which are twisted into special papillotes.
Types of hair perm
The basis of any perm is a special tool, as well as curlers. The result of curling will entirely depend on which curlers you used in the process. There are many types of curlers. The use of each specific type of curler allows you to achieve a different shape of curls.
Large permed hair
Large, lush curls are a hairstyle that suits almost any woman. However, not every lady can boast of luxurious curls. This can be corrected with a large perm. With such a perm, you will definitely not look like a lamb. True, the hair for such a hairstyle should be more than average length. Before doing this type of perm, select the correct diameter of the curler. The larger it is, the larger the curls you will end up with. Also, for such a curling, you can use "boomerangs" (papillotes) of large diameter. The latter are easy to wrap around the hair. Before perming directly, it is recommended to carry out a "rehearsal" and wind the hair on the selected type of curler without using a permanent. This will help you determine if this hairstyle is right for you. Please note that after a perm, the curls will be more elastic.
You should also choose the diameter of the curler for a large curl based on your hair type. Large curlers are not suitable for thin hair. Such hair does not hold its shape well, and curls, rolled on large curlers, will look like light waves. The American perm is very popular now. It allows you to get large curls with the help of special large diameter curlers Olivia Garden. They are fastened together with the help of teeth and folded on the head into a special structure. Such curlers do not leave creases on the hair, and the curls come out large and lush.
Fine perm of hair
Fine perm is recommended for women with thin and not thick hair. As a rule, it is performed with short haircuts.
On medium-length hair, fine curling gives the effect of "Afro-style". It is characterized by ultra-volume, small curls and a spherical silhouette. Such volumes look especially impressive on naturally lush hair. True, it will not be easy to take care of such a hairstyle later. In addition, it is almost impossible to make a new styling on such a head of hair. Fine curls can be obtained by making a spiral hair perm. It is done using special knitting needles, rulers, papillotes, small spiral curlers. Such a perm should be done only in a beauty salon, since it is quite laborious, and it is very difficult to cope with it on your own. It will take up to 5 hours to make a "afro-wave". In order to get a lush spiral curl with an abundance of small curls, the master will have to use a lot of bobbins. Hair on them is wrapped in thin strands using a special technology.
Medium permed hair
Achieve medium-sized curls with a trendy vertical curl. For such a curling, special cone-shaped long bobbins with holes for pulling the strands are used.
It is optimal if they are made of wood or plastic. They allow you to wind the curl evenly along the entire length - from roots to ends. This is especially true on long hair, which is almost impossible to curl using the horizontal method. This curling looks natural, hair falls in elastic, uniform waves. Vertical curling is also convenient because it is easy to correct when the hair grows back. It is enough just to curl the root part of the hair. This way the hair will be minimally damaged.
The technology of curling hair with vertical curling is the opposite of the traditional one. Hair is curled from roots to ends.
Rules for performing a perm on hair of different lengths
Permed on hair of different lengths is done by different methods. The most popular are vertical (for long hair) and horizontal (for short hair). You can make a perm at home. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the instructions for applying the composition.
Perm technology for short hair
Before you start curling short hair at home, choose a gentle curling product and suitable curlers or bobbins. For short hair, small diameter curlers are ideal. You will need them on average 20-30 pieces. We carry out the perm in this order:
- We wash my head with regular shampoo and dry my hair with a towel.
- Divide the combed hair into the front part and a pair of side ones.
- Lubricate the skin of the face and around the ears, which is in contact with the hairline, with petroleum jelly or baby cream.
- We wind the strands on curlers or bobbins. Curl short hair, starting from the parietal zone towards the crown of the face, and then towards the neck from the mid-occipital part of the head. It is best if you have bobbins of three diameters. The thickest ones are used to curl the hair at the top of the head, the middle ones are used at the temples, and the thinnest ones are at the back of the head.
- The width of the strands should be 1.5-2 cm less than the length of the bobbin. You need to wind your hair evenly, without straining. Make sure that no creases are formed.
- We moisten each turn with a curling agent. It is convenient to do this with a sponge, brush or sponge.
- After all the hair has been fixed and treated with a chemical, we put a warming cap on our head.
- After waiting for the time allotted according to the instructions, rinse the hair in bobbins with water.
- Apply a fixing compound on top of the washed hair on bobbins. We stand for about 5 minutes.
- We remove the bobbins, and again treat the hair with a fixative. We leave for another 5 minutes.
- We wash my head with shampoo and rinse with acidified water.
- At the end of the procedure, you can also apply a biological fixer to the hair. It will strengthen the keratin of the hair, and this will have a positive effect on the appearance of the hair.
Note! It is not recommended to use a hairdryer to dry permed hair. This will negatively affect them.
Vertical curling for long hair
For such a curling, bobbins are also used, but of a different shape - conical, elongated. Moreover, the longer the hair, the longer the bobbin should be. The technology for applying the composition is similar to that used for curling short hair. Only the procedure for winding the strands differs. This is done like this:
- My head, comb the hair and divide the strands into equal squares. You should start from the back of the head. The size of the square should not be less than the diameter of the bobbin base. Otherwise, they will not fit on your head.
- We fix the hair with temporary clips.
- Apply the curling product with a brush or sponge. We start from the ends.
- We pass the strands of hair through the hole near the base of the bobbin. We pass one end of the pull-through into the hole in the base of the bobbin from the side where the cone is thickened.
- With our left hand we take a strand of hair soaked with a chemical preparation and pass it into a pulling device, fold it in half and pull it through the hole located at the base of the bobbin. Note, if the hair is too thick, then fold it in half closer to the ends so that the strand passes through the hole.
- We wind the hair from the back of the head. We wind the strand on the base of the bobbin in a ring-like manner, evenly and tightly.
- If your hair is too long, you can twist it in two rows. In this case, the curl will turn out to be large.
- After all the curls are wound, we put on the rubber clamping ring.
- Wet curled hair with a chemical composition and leave for the required time.
- Wash my hair, treat it with a fixative and wash it off again.
Remember that you cannot use metal objects when curling your hair. After that, in no case should you dye your hair for at least two weeks. How to make a perm - watch the video:
Curls of any shape and size, additional volume - all this can give you a perm. You can perform the procedure even at home, using high-quality and gentle curling compounds. Don't forget that after curling your hair needs extra care. Use balms, masks, mild shampoos, and bouncy curls will delight you for a long time.
