Decorative and functional characteristics of the lining, its varieties, the advantages of wall cladding in this way, the technology for performing the work. Lining is a thin facing board made of lumber for wall cladding inside and outside the premises. A large assortment of lining on construction markets will satisfy the most demanding customer. The article will help you understand the features of the material and give recommendations for wall covering.
The main types of lining for walls
Finishing sheets are made from edged boards. The workpiece is planed from both sides, and then protrusions and grooves of the “thorn-groove” type are milled at the ends for articulation with adjacent boards. The processing of the board ends after obtaining the correct geometric shape. Due to the special design of the docking surfaces, installation work is significantly reduced in price, and the wall looks monolithic. The scope of the lining is huge, with its help they trim the outer and inner walls of cottages, gazebos, balconies, baths, etc.
Manufacturers of wooden wall paneling have developed several options for the classification of finishing material. The most important criteria by which the lining is distinguished are the profile of the canvas, its dimensions, and the type of wood.
Classification of wall lining by type of profile
This parameter divides the lining into domestic and "euro lining". In the manufacture of goods, domestic and foreign companies adhere to the requirements of different standards, so the boards differ even visually.
The lining of domestic manufacturers is manufactured in accordance with GOST 8242-88. According to the standard, the thickness of the sheets can be from 12 to 25 mm, the length is up to 6000 mm, the width is 150 mm, and the length of the spike is 4-6 mm.
Domestic products are produced with different profiles, which differ in the section of the boards and the size of the spikes and grooves:
- The basic profile for domestic products is the "Standard" profile. The section of the board resembles a trapezoid, with the edges cut at an angle of 30 degrees.
- The “Calm” profile is distinguished by rounded corners.
- The Europrofile profile has a thickened spike, which increases the strength of the connection.
- Lining-American in cross-section of complex geometry, impregnated with a special compound and intended for cladding external walls. The main difference from other models is that it is mounted with an overlap and only horizontally.
- The block house is made in the form of a round timber, has a convex profile, but the joints are similar to standard profiles.
European manufacturers are subject to the DIN 68126 standard, which has more stringent product requirements:
- Boards can be produced only in certain sizes: thickness - 13, 16, 19, mm, width - 80, 100, 110, 120 mm, length - up to 6000 mm.
- The DIN 68126 standard strictly regulates the moisture content of wood (14-16%) in the manufacture of products.
- The presence of chips, notches, surface deformations means a marriage.
- The length of the groove in the Euro lining is 8 mm, it is slightly larger than the protrusion of the neighboring board. The increased gap prevents the skin from cracking when the products are deformed.
- Air vents are provided on the rough side of the Euro lining to prevent the formation of condensation and ventilate the space behind the cladding.
- The front side is designed in two ways: "Standard" and "Soft line". Products in the latter version are made with rounded versions.
Classification of lining for wall decoration by type of wood
The characteristic connects the quality of the lining with the properties of lumber. Boards are divided into 4 classes:
- Lining "Extra" is made of wood without any flaws, there are no core elements in the structure.
- Lining of class "A" is also made from lumber without a core. Small defects are allowed on finished samples: at a length of 1.5 m there may be one knot (on the front side), two blind cracks, two resin pockets.
- The cloth of class "B" and "C" allows the presence of defects of various types.
Most cracks and nicks on the canvas can be masked with putty or putty, so objectively evaluate the quality of the product.
Classification of lining for walls by type of wood
A wide range of tree species from which blanks are cut for lining. The choice of lumber is made according to the criterion "price-quality". The characteristics of the most popular types of lining from different tree species are given below.
Pine lining is considered the most purchased material for interior decoration due to its ease of wood processing and low price. Drawing on pine boards - diffuse, has a relaxing effect on the eyes. Scandinavian pine products are especially appreciated. Planks made of it are without knots, have a pink tint, annual rings of equal thickness and look very beautiful on the wall. It is recommended to use pine products at temperatures from -5 to +30 degrees and low humidity.
The larch panel belongs to the elite finishing materials due to its special strength. The wood does not rot, does not warp, is not afraid of pests, and retains an attractive appearance for a long time. Samples from larch are cheaper than products from other elite materials. The low price of larch is explained by the large number of trees of this species in Russia.
Oak lining belongs to the elite samples. Wall cladding made of this material is durable, does not rot for a long time. The high cost of the material pays off with the reliability and durability of the coating.
Linden wood is soft, well processed. Samples made from this material are light, strong, practically free of knots. Linden in the house gives off a pleasant aroma, has a healing effect. Does not swell in damp rooms. The lining of white linden is distinguished by its purest white color; stains are not visible on the surface of the battens. Used to decorate the walls of the sauna.
Black alder lumber is soft, easy to process and has a low density. They tolerate moisture well. The color of the alder panel is coffee with marble veins that add sophistication to the wall. The coating does not warp over time, does not change color. The boards are lightweight and comfortable to work with. Alder cloth can be used in unheated rooms (in summer cottages, in attics), as well as for finishing the steam rooms of a bath.
Advantages and disadvantages of wall lining
The number of objective advantages of the lining is huge: this includes the natural coating material, ease of installation of panels and many other characteristics. Due to its numerous positive properties, lining successfully competes with artificial decorative materials:
- Lining is considered the cheapest facing material made from natural raw materials.
- The presence of special grooves significantly reduces finishing work. The tongue-and-groove connection creates a dust and dirt barrier.
- After work, the wall looks like a monolithic structure of wood without visible gaps.
- Wooden lining visually aligns the walls.
- Wood has the ability to create a special indoor climate due to its ability to absorb and release moisture.
- The use of lining reduces the cost of work. Other cladding options associated with leveling surfaces in one plane and finishing are more expensive.
- The product is distinguished by its strength and durability, it serves for a long time without replacement or repair. If necessary, the replacement of individual elements is carried out very quickly.
- Sound and heat insulation materials can be placed between the panels and the room wall.
- The texture of the material allows you to combine it with any style of room decoration.
Users should also be aware of the weaknesses of the product, especially in the case of clapboard wall cladding with their own hands: the tree burns well, so do not neglect the fire safety rules; remember to cover the boards with water repellent. You should also protect the material from insects and fungus.
Clapboard wall cladding technology
Wall cladding with clapboard is performed in several stages. After removing the protruding elements on the wall from the surface, the base is assembled to which the panels will be attached, then the condition of the boards is checked and defects are eliminated. The last step is to fix the material on the wall. More details about the preliminary and basic work during installation are written below.
Preparatory work before finishing the walls with clapboard
When buying a product, pay attention to the points that can reduce the life of the coating: check the storage conditions of the product, the material should be stored in its original original packaging; the warehouse must maintain the permissible humidity level; storage of products in direct sunlight and with large temperature drops is not allowed; make sure the products have not expired.
Buy material with a small margin, correctly performed calculations will reduce the number of scraps and save material. The number of sheets to cover depends on the width and length of the original sheet. When calculating, take into account the presence of spikes and grooves on the boards, which reduce the working surface of the blade by 10-12 mm.
As an example, let's determine the number of boards 100 mm wide for wall decoration 2500x6000 mm:
- The working surface of the blade: 100 - 10 = 90 mm.
- The number of boards is 6000: 90 = 67 pieces, with a length of 2.5 m.
If you buy domestic products, study the appearance of the product. After manufacturing, the lining is not painted and is not impregnated with protective substances, therefore, the canvas must be subjected to special processing before use.
The processing method depends on the type of wood, but the list of works for all materials is the same:
- Coniferous boards are degreased, resin stains are removed from them. The surface of the boards is washed with a 25% acetone solution, and then wiped with a clean cloth soaked in warm water. After the procedure, the samples are well dried.
- To get the same shade on the surface of the board, it is bleached with hydrogen peroxide and oxalic acid. The concentration of the solution depends on the type of wood.
- Cracks, chips and other defects on the canvas are sealed with putty or putty. The stores sell ready-made pastes for wood surfaces that imitate the shades of different types of wood.
- If necessary, mask the modified surfaces with paint carefully selected in color. You can make your own lining paint from titanium or zinc white with the addition of watercolors - the components allow you to select the desired shade with high accuracy.
- You can also change the shade of the board while maintaining the natural texture. To do this, buy wood paint: stain based on organic solvents, synthetic resins, various stains and stains.
Lathing for fixing the lining on the walls
The technology of wall decoration with clapboard depends on the condition of the base wall. If the surface is flawless and located in a vertical plane, you can think about gluing the sheets.
In most cases, surfaces require leveling, so a flat base is made in advance from slats. For the frame, solid wooden slats with a cross section of at least 20x40 mm are suitable, the recommended size is 30x60 mm. The bars are easy to fix on the wall, but difficult to level, so metal drywall profiles are often used instead of slats. The design of metal profiles and the methods of their fastening are specially designed for leveling surfaces, which speeds up the installation of the frame.
When creating the lathing, follow these recommendations:
- The slats should be placed vertically or horizontally on the wall, but always perpendicular to the boards.
- The distance between the base profiles is no more than 50 cm.
- In wooden houses, leave a margin of 2-3 cm between the vertical slats of the frame, the floor and the ceiling. This is due to the constant shrinkage of wooden buildings.
- The crate is attached to a wooden wall with self-tapping screws, to a concrete and brick wall - with dowels.
- The outer surfaces of the frame must be in the same vertical plane. They control verticality with a plumb line, flatness - with the help of cords stretched between the extreme boards.
- After alignment, the gaps behind the profiles are filled with wooden spacers, which are made on site.
It is convenient to install insulation between the profiles of the battens, for example, Rockwwool or Ursa boards. After filling the lathing cells with an insulator, a waterproof film is laid on top. To prevent fungus or mold from forming on the inner surfaces of the boards, it is recommended to introduce forced ventilation of the gaps
How to fix the lining on the walls
Before sheathing, bring the lining into the room, lay the samples on the floor and leave for two days. The boards will be "acclimatized" and will not deform after installation. Please note that finishing work is allowed to be carried out at a positive temperature and humidity less than 60%. Before attaching the lining to the wall, decide on the method of fixing the sheets.
The simplest method of fixing the boards is with nails or self-tapping screws through the canvas into the crate. At first, it is recommended to make holes in the boards with a depth of about 10 mm for fasteners, otherwise the board may burst. The fastener heads must be sunk into the wood. After fixing all the boards, fill the remaining holes above the heads with putty or wooden plugs, followed by flush grinding.
For fastening, you can use nails with heads decorated in the color of the lining. You can also find headless nails on sale that are hammered in at an angle of 70-80 degrees.
Stapling is used when laying from the ceiling downwards, in this case the stapler is more convenient than a hammer. The bracket slides into the tenon at a 45-degree angle, allowing you to install the next board without any problems.
Secret fastening with nails is similar to the previous method of fastening, only nails are used instead of staples. The heads of the screws are sunk into the wood with a doboiler, and they are completely invisible.
Claymers are used when attaching thin euro lining and to create decorative finishes. They are staples made of sheet steel, which are attached to the seamy side of the sheet. The first canvas is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws, which are then masked with dowels. The next board with cleats is installed in a regular place on the wall, then the cleats are attached to the base with self-tapping screws or a stapler.
Most often, the board is mounted horizontally on the wall. The first sheet is installed at the bottom of the floor with a spike upwards, fixation with fasteners starts from the corner farthest from the entrance doors. Carefully insert the canvas in the vertical and horizontal planes; the quality of the finish of the entire wall depends on the first sample.
Fastening the board with the groove down is important for cladding the outer walls, so that rain water will not stagnate in the cavity of the board. The next board is installed with a groove on a spike, pressed along the edges and in the middle to the first sample with wooden wedges and fixed in this position.
It is recommended not to place the joints of the boards in one vertical line. If the wall is long, the joints between the boards can be placed one above the other, but then they are covered with decorative strips.
Often the boards are arranged in a herringbone pattern, offset by 50 cm in the horizontal plane, or staggered. The latest mounting options allow you to use small pieces of boards from 50 to 100 cm, including the rest of the material.
With the vertical arrangement of the lining, the wall decoration starts from the corner. The first rail is carefully set in a vertical plane and fastened with self-tapping screws or on clamps. Subsequent sheets are installed with thorns in the groove of the already fixed canvas, shifted to the stop and attached to the crate. For vertical sheathing, it is recommended to use wide boards, more than 80 mm. A wall with narrow sheets will "part".
At the end of the work, cover the gaps between the floor, ceiling and clapboard with a decorative skirting board, which will not prevent air from entering the panels. The slots in the corners of the room are closed with wooden corner elements.
After mounting the lining on the wall, the sheets are covered with a stain of any shade and varnished. The lacquer coating preserves the texture of the lining and retains its color for a long time.
Watch a video about decorating walls with clapboard with your own hands:
Lining is by far the cheapest of all decorative finishing materials. The presence of special connecting profiles at the ends of the boards facilitates installation work and allows you to decorate the walls yourself.
