Types of varnishes for wooden floors, surface treatment technology, possible coating defects and suggestions for their elimination. Wood floor varnishing is a surface treatment with a protective agent in order to preserve the natural attractiveness of sawn timber and increase its service life. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the rules for choosing compositions for covering flooring and the technology for performing finishing work.
Choosing a varnish for a wooden floor
Varnishes are classified according to many parameters, but home products are often selected for composition and application.
Classification of floor varnishes by solvent type
Liquid components divide varnishes into water-soluble and solvent-based. The first type is practically odorless, emits a small amount of harmful substances. It dries quickly and has good adhesive properties. However, after such treatment, the floor should be re-painted after 2-3 years. Also in the room it is necessary to constantly maintain humidity within 50%.
Organosoluble wood floor varnishing compounds have a strong unpleasant odor and release toxic fumes for a long time. Of the positive qualities, one can note resistance to mechanical stress - abrasion and shock.
Classification of varnishes by composition
The study of the composition of the topcoat is the main criterion when choosing a surface treatment product. If you decide to varnish the wooden floor with your own hands and purchase consumables yourself, pay attention to the following products:
- Water-soluble polyurethane formulations … They are considered the best for wood floors. They increase the strength and elasticity of the surface, do not emit toxic substances, and do not wear off even in places of active use. On the Russian market, the best products are made in Sweden. These are transparent, colorless solutions that perfectly emphasize the structure of the wood. They can be used to obtain lacquered, semi-lacquered or glossy floors. But a good gloss is only possible on dry boards. If the moisture content of the solid wood exceeds 10%, bubbles appear. It is also worth noting the high price of such solutions.
- Acrylic-polyurethane varnishes … To reduce the cost, acrylic is added to the polyurethane varnish. The substance has good spreadability, it is suitable for covering the massif in poorly passable rooms.
- Acrylic varnishes for wood floors … Acrylic compounds, which are characterized by low abrasion resistance, are even less expensive. They are produced only on a water basis, therefore they do not emit harmful fumes.
- Urethane solutions … They have proven themselves well in conditions of frequent fluctuations in temperature and humidity. They do not allow the expansion of the wood mass when the temperature changes. They are relatively inexpensive.
- Alkyd suspensions … They are able to compete with polyurethane in terms of strength. The coating retains its attractive appearance even in high-traffic rooms. After processing, the wood changes color for the better, the texture and structure are clearly visible. An elastic horn-shaped non-slip film forms on the surface of the lacquered floor. However, not everyone likes long-term drying and strict requirements for the application of the substance - it is not recommended to use more than 120 g / m2… With a large thickness, bubbles and wrinkles appear. Also, when drying, you should observe the temperature regime, otherwise the hardening process increases significantly. The highest quality products are made in Germany. Finnish and Russian are inferior in the degree of purification of the mixture, but are cheaper.
- Epoxy varnishes … They have good strength characteristics, but the first three days emit fumes that are harmful to humans. In addition, the products are two-component and require knowledge and strict adherence to mixing technology.
- Alcohol based varnishes … Made with the addition of natural resins. Due to this composition, the flooring is covered in several layers without removing the previous one. Alcohol-treated floors are shiny and attractive, but they are afraid of moisture. They dry quickly, form a thin even film on the surface, and are inexpensive.
- Oily liquids … Used for primary coverage only. They cannot be applied in a thin layer, therefore they are rarely used last. The solutions are intended for premises with high traffic. After drying, a hard brown or yellow film remains on the surface.
The choice of floor varnish for different rooms
The properties of a wood floor finish affect its applicability. When choosing a varnish, it is recommended to take into account the purpose of the room where it will be used:
- Lacquered floors in kitchens and bathrooms must be waterproof, so use urethane, urethane alkyd and polyurethane varnishes in these areas.
- In living rooms, hallways, on stairs, coat boards with epoxy substances and solutions based on polyurethane resins that are resistant to abrasion.
- In children's rooms, use drugs that emit harmful fumes only during finishing work. Such varnishes are marked with the words "EN 71, 3".
- In the country, use coatings that retain their properties when the size of lumber changes under the influence of temperature and humidity. These include urethane alkyd and urethane varnishes.
- Treat intensively used floors in the hallway, living room, hall with epoxy compounds.
- Wooden steps should not be slippery, so paint with anti-slip urethane mortars.
Make sure the substance has not passed the expiration date. Open the container with the product and inspect the contents. If you don't like the quality of the mixture, replace it.
Wood floor varnishing technology
The varnishing technique provides for different methods of applying solutions, depending on the accessories used and the types of paints and varnishes.
Floor varnish tools
Before varnishing a wooden floor, prepare special tools and accessories for the job. There are several ways to apply the topcoat, but at home they are varnished with a brush, roller or swab.
The choice of a working tool depends on the type of substance:
- Brushes are needed for working with polyurethane and oil preparations. Soft natural fibers with split ends are suitable for work. This shape ensures an even distribution of the liquid. In the store you can find special products with a width of 100 mm, which are called so - brushes for varnishing the floor.
- Tampons are used when working with alcohol varnishes (based on vegetable resins) and shellac. The device is easy to make yourself from woolen fabric or cotton wool, which is wrapped in a linen napkin. Tool sizes can vary from 35 to 100 mm, depending on the area of the treated area.
- The rollers are sold with short and long nap. The first type is used for water-based varnishes, the second for all others.
Also, stock up on a clean cotton towel to wipe the floor before applying the product.
Preparation of the floor surface for varnishing
It is impossible to correct surface defects under the topcoat, therefore, the base must be modified very carefully. The work consists of several stages.
To begin with, remove gross defects in this way:
- Remove all protruding elements from the floor surface - nails, knots, etc.
- Replace badly damaged floorboards.
- Mask thin cracks with wood putty.
- To seal holes from nails, prepare a mortar of wood glue and sawdust. Apply the mixture to the problem area with a spatula and rub in in a circular motion.
- Remove tar from pine boards by rubbing with gasoline.
- Boards covered with protective wax, wipe with mineral spirits to remove the coating.
It is advisable to grind with a special machine. The device will remove not only irregularities and splinters, but also the upper blackened layer of wood. The base will return to its natural original color.
Machine the floor with a coarse emery cloth and remove any dirt and old coating from the surface. Change to a medium-grit sanding belt and continue working until you get a smooth surface with a pleasant tint.
Go over the surface with a fine-grained sandpaper. Finish the corners of the room by hand or using special angle grinders.
Next, you need to vacuum the flooring, cleaning it from fine dirt and grains of sand. Wash the array with a wet cloth, preferably microfiber, after which even the smallest dust does not remain. Add detergent to the washing water and check the reaction of the substrate on a small area.
If the color has changed, it means that there are additives in the wood that react to household chemicals. In this case, carry out further cleaning without detergents. Rinse the washed boards with clean water several times. Wait until the floor is completely dry.
Features of priming a wooden floor
To obtain a high-quality glossy surface, the flooring is first treated with a primer and filler, only then varnished. The choice of each remedy is influenced by many factors that affect the final result.
The use of special impregnations helps to solve the following problems:
- Protection of boards from water ingress, which raises wood fibers;
- Changing the color of the array to the desired tonality;
- Neutralization of oil impregnations, wax mastics and other protective compounds that could not be removed mechanically;
- Improving the adhesion of the topcoat to wood and preventing it from peeling;
- Neutralization of essential oils on lumber from tropical countries;
- Reduced fluid consumption by filling the pores with primer.
The choice of primer largely depends on the type of wood from which the boards are made:
- Arrays with a high content of tannins darken after treatment with polyurethane preparations. So that the color of boards with similar properties does not change, they are pre-impregnated with cut-off soil.
- Exotic lumber contains a large amount of ether and other substances that prevent the varnish from hardening. There are also special fluids to neutralize them.
- Beech flooring is covered with a special mortar designed for unstable wood.
Regardless of the composition and purpose, the impregnation should have the following properties: transparency, so as not to hide the natural beauty of the tree, dry quickly, have water resistance, wash off well with a solvent, and not react with the topcoat.
It is advisable to buy primers and varnishes from one manufacturer. If this is not possible, carefully study the label on the container with the substance, usually there are indicated permissible pairs of paints and varnishes. At home, wax, rosin-chalk and varnish mastics are most often used to impregnate the boards.
Perform priming according to our recommendations:
- Apply the solution with a stiff brush (flute) using light force, passing over one spot several times.
- After the first layer has dried, remove the raised pile with fine sandpaper. The primer can only be reapplied to dry surfaces.
- It is allowed to apply three layers of liquid, the last one after 2 days.
- Remove any remaining wood fibers with sanding paper.
Wood floor covering with fillers
Cover the floor with filler after priming. These are means for closing pores in wood, which can reduce the consumption of paints and varnishes and create an extra-thin glossy film on the surface. Often such properties are possessed by primers with the addition of drying oil, turpentine, desiccant.
The characteristics of the original two-component materials are much better. Working compositions are prepared immediately before application due to the instability of the suspension. To make a product, mix the liquid base with the filler and mix thoroughly.
You can also make your own filler from PF-283 varnish (6%), white spirit (8%) and gypsum (86%). First, pour the liquid into one container and mix. Then add the powder. The finished mixture should look like a paste.
Floor covering is done with a spatula or swab. Remove excess mortar immediately so that the structure of the board remains visible.
How to varnish hardwood floors
Before varnishing the floor, check the air temperature, which should be between +12 and +25 degrees. Failure to comply with the temperature regime can cause numerous defects. Check the cleanliness of the indoor air. It is not recommended to work in dusty environments. There must be ventilation in the room. Provide good lighting in your work area.
Paint a small area in an inconspicuous area and make sure the color matches your expectations. Next, do the work as follows:
- Start to process the flooring from the wall farthest from the door, and move towards the exit from the room.
- If you are using a brush, move it in the direction of the grain. Use U-strokes to go over the already varnished edges. The brush layer should be as thin as possible, so squeeze out the bristles more often. Move the tool slowly while working to avoid the formation of bubbles. Control the absence of dry places.
- When using rollers, the movements should be crosswise. With the first movement across the fibers, the liquid is applied to the boards, with the second, along the fibers, it is evenly leveled.
- Dip the swab into the liquid completely for impregnation. In an inconspicuous spot on the floor, determine how hard you press on the material for the best result. Apply the first coat along the grain with a quick motion, in one direction. The strokes should not overlap. Follow the movements in different directions. Increase the pressure on the swab as the flow rate decreases. The surface should be evenly colored, without smudges.
- After creating the first layer, let it dry. Store the brush in a container of solvent while drying. Also, brushes can be wrapped in a cloth, soaked in solvent and wrapped in cellophane wrap.
- Examine dry flooring for raised lint that roughens the boards. Sand the problem areas by hand with fine-grained paper. Vacuum the floor and wash thoroughly. The next layer of varnish is applied only on a dry surface.
The time for complete drying of the varnish is indicated on the label of the container with the product. Inspection of the floor surface and its completion must be carried out after each layer.
The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood from which the flooring is made. Cover hard materials twice, soft solid and public floors three times. The last layer is not sanded.
The lacquered surface can be polished with special pastes to obtain a glossy shine. After complete drying, the furniture must not be moved over the flooring for a few more days.
Assessment of the quality of work
The quality of varnishing is assessed from the height of a person's height in diffused light. Do not use a backlight or look at the film from your knees.
Pay attention to the following points:
- Make sure the flooring is covered with a uniform layer of varnish. There is no excuse for the fact that the absorbency of some areas of wood is different.
- The coating should have the same gloss over all areas.
- Wrinkles, missed areas, traces from coloring tools, roughness are not allowed.
- Even if all precautions are taken, dust and lint remain in the room, which fall on the floor and can spoil the experience of work. Individual smallest particles are not considered a defect, because they do not spoil the overall picture.
- The treated floor may stick slightly. To relieve the discomfort, wash it with soap and water.
- Ventilate the room well to eliminate unpleasant odors. You can also light a gas burner, most of the harmful vapors will burn out in the flame.
After a while, the results of poor-quality work may appear on the floor. Solutions to the problem depend on the size of the defective area.
If the floor does not dry for a long time, the problem is solved depending on the causes of the defect:
- If the paintwork is incorrect for a certain type of wood, raise the temperature in the room to 20 degrees.
- If there is not enough hardener in the two-component varnish, remove the protective layer and apply a properly prepared solution.
- If there is a lack of air in the room, provide ventilation.
The presence of whitish beads indicates the concentration of moisture in this area. There may be several reasons: the procedure was carried out at a low temperature, a low floor temperature remains in the room for a long time, high humidity in the entire building (found in new buildings). The build-ups are removed with a solvent, after which the floor is re-varnished.
The exfoliation of varnish in a small area is eliminated by grinding the problem area and re-varnishing. If the defect is observed over a large area, the coating should be completely removed and the work done again.
Swelling of the varnish occurs when products with different chemical compositions are applied or the solvent is incorrectly selected. In small areas, the damaged layer can be removed with sandpaper and refilled. Large areas are completely cleaned and varnished with a quality solution.
How to varnish a wooden floor - watch the video:
At first glance, the technology of applying a protective coating seems complicated, but this is not at all the case. If you take the work seriously and perform operations in compliance with all the requirements of the instructions, it is possible to varnish the floor with your own hands and save a lot of family budget funds.
