Peptides used in cosmetology: anti-aging properties and other useful properties of dermal reductants, types and functionality of individual substances, contraindications for use, rules for choosing peptide cosmetics. Peptides are natural or synthetic compounds made up of amino acids. They can be synthesized by the body on its own or come from the outside with cosmetics and medicines. The main purpose of these structural units of protein is the regulation of the vital activity of living cells, due to which they began to be actively introduced into cosmetic complexes to control the processes occurring in the skin. How effective are peptides in solving cosmetic problems, how safe they are for health and whether it is worth buying peptide cosmetics - read the answers to all these and many other questions in this article.
Description and mechanism of action of peptides in cosmetology
Most cosmetic problems arise as a result of cell disruption, lack of nutrients. Premature aging, the appearance of wrinkles, sagging skin, ugly color and much more dictate to cosmetologists and researchers the need to search for the most effective means to eliminate skin imperfections.
Since the beginning of the 20th century, research has begun on previously unexplored amino acid compounds, i.e. peptides. Quite quickly, their study led to interesting results. Peptides have a number of important beneficial properties, have a regulatory effect on the cells of the body, being responsible for the correct course of all intracellular processes.
There are two ways to form them: combining several amino acids into short chains or breaking down a protein into structural elements. Peptides are not auxiliary materials, but are considered essential for the normal functioning of tissues. This was the main reason that peptide compounds began to be actively added to cosmetics.
It is known that there are a huge variety of peptides that differ in primary and secondary structure, i.e. the sequence of amino acids, the structure of the molecule itself and the spatial molecular configuration. The primary structure is a code that, in turn, is responsible for certain physiological processes.
Peptides used in cosmetology are characterized by a high degree of safety of use. They are synthesized by splitting protein or combining amino acids, so their composition is free of harmful substances. They do not have a toxic effect, do not cause allergic reactions. The use of these amino acid compounds is not addictive.
The most important distinctive feature and, as studies have shown, the huge advantage of peptides in the composition of cosmetics over amino acids and protein is that they have an optimal size and a sufficiently complex structure for rapid penetration into the skin and the most effective effect on biochemical processes in cells. Amino acids are too small and simple in structure, therefore, penetrating the skin, they are practically unable to provide the desired effect. Protein molecules, on the other hand, are quite complex in structure, but too large to easily enter the cells of the skin.
The mechanism of action of the peptides is very interesting. It can be described as follows:
- Once in the cell nucleus, peptides contribute to the production of genetic elements that are responsible for cell multiplication. They regulate the required rate of stem cell division.
- The effect of peptides on young cells is manifested in information, i.e. peptides encode them to perform certain functions and ensure the correct development.
- Mature cells are provided with a set of receptors and enzymes necessary for proper functioning, i.e. peptides regulate their metabolism, increasing the phase of active work.
- By increasing the activity of intracellular systems, cell survival increases. In general, peptide compounds provide an optimal ratio of cells at different stages of their life cycle, i.e. dividing, maturing, actively functioning, and also dying off.
- All this leads to improved microcirculation, improved delivery of nutrients.
- Also, the cells start restructuring their own collagen. Fibroblast functionality is gradually activated, which slows down tissue aging. The production of pigment is blocked, which reduces the severity of age-related pigmentation. The activity of the sebaceous glands decreases, which has a beneficial effect on the purity of the skin, acne is eliminated, and the oily sheen disappears.
- The peptides reduce the destructive effects of interleukin 1, a hormone-like protein.
- As a result, the skin rejuvenates, many cosmetic problems disappear.
Peptides are injected into the skin in several ways:
- Mesotherapy … It is carried out in a professional salon. A peptide preparation is injected into the upper layers of the skin through a thin needle. Suitable for young skin. It is not advisable to carry out the procedure for girls under 18 years of age. The course consists of 5 sessions, between which there is a pause of 9-11 days. The total cost of mesotherapy is from 15,000 rubles. The result is getting rid of fine wrinkles, increasing the elasticity of the skin, improving their color.
- Biorevitalization … The method of administration is similar to mesotherapy. The difference is that during biorevitalization, the drug is injected much deeper into the skin tissue. It is characterized by higher efficiency. Eliminates in a short time even deep wrinkles, scars, tightens the contour of the face. The minimum cost of a course of 5 procedures is 35,000 rubles. The method is not suitable for everyone. Indicated for women over 35 years old.
- External processing method … This is the easiest way that does not require a visit to the salon. For its implementation, cream, serum or other peptide cosmetics are used. Differs in the least efficiency in comparison with mesotherapy and biorevitalization, but it is the most affordable. After the treatment of the skin, the peptides are not fully absorbed into the epidermis, but they solve many cosmetic problems, in particular, prevent premature aging. For improved permeability of useful components, special compounds with hydrophobic groups or solvents are being developed.
Peptides in cosmetics: harm and benefit
Cosmetics with peptides are called dermal reductants. They are based on biologically active components that are able to freely penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, to influence the receptors of cells, launching the entire complex of their regenerative resources. What else is influenced by short chains of amino acids, are they always useful and safe - it's time to talk about the beneficial properties and possible contraindications of peptides in cosmetics.
Useful properties of peptide cosmetics
The role of peptides for skin health is great, because without them, many natural processes at the cellular level are simply impossible. Their main functions are as follows:
- Regeneration of skin tissues … The recovery processes take place rather quickly, becausepeptides are able to recognize places where damage occurs, where skin cells are damaged. Also, these structural elements of the protein are actively involved in their direct restoration and eliminate inflammation.
- Strengthening the top layer of the skin … The action of peptides leads to an increase in the tone of the skin.
- Improving nutrition … Normalization of the structure and functionality of cells leads to the establishment of their supply of nutrients. The skin receives the required amount of oxygen, minerals, vitamins, moisture.
- Enhancing the protective functions of the skin … The strengthened dermis becomes less susceptible to various harmful effects of external factors, be it the action of free radicals or mechanical action.
- Achieving a cosmetic effect … Peptides are able to relieve the tension of facial muscles, which leads to a gradual smoothing of the skin, elimination of superficial wrinkles. Collagen synthesis is normalized, which provides a tightening effect. Improving blood flow and microcirculation of substances in cells leads to the elimination of darkening under the eyes, edema, irritation. Age spots gradually disappear. A clear anti-aging effect is visible. Oily sheen disappears.
In general, the value of cosmetics with peptides lies in the normalization of the vital activity of each cell, prevention of tissue aging, and ensuring the safety of genetic material. In this regard, peptides are incredibly useful and extremely necessary for the rehabilitation of the skin after certain cosmetic procedures, for example, laser treatment, chemical peeling, as well as various types of operations. They bring great benefits and a huge cosmetic effect in the fight against post-acne marks.
Harm and contraindications to the use of cosmetics with peptides
Cream with peptides, peptide preparations for mesotherapy and biorevitalization, given their potential effectiveness, attract a lot of attention of women who want to get at their disposal a formula for preserving youth and beauty. However, is everything so simple and safe, are there any restrictions on the use of these miracle remedies - important questions that you need to know the answer to before a salon procedure or buying a drug for home use.
The circumstances are such that, despite the hypoallergenicity and purity of the composition of the peptides, their use is limited by several contraindications.
So, you can not use dermal reductants in the presence of such diseases:
- Benign or malignant neoplasms;
- Diabetes;
- Psoriasis;
- Rheumatoid arthritis;
- Obesity;
- Infectious diseases.
Separately, it should be said about individual intolerance. Perhaps this or that peptide is not capable of causing allergic reactions, but after all, it is not used in its pure form, and for ease of use and increased shelf life, it is combined with other ingredients that, individually or in combination, can cause negative manifestations on the part of the body.
Do not be afraid of an overdose of peptides, because the resulting excess of short chains will be split into amino acids.
Cosmetic preparations with peptides can cause, albeit extremely rarely, some side effects. In the overwhelming majority of cases, this does not refer to means for external use, but to substances that are injected with a needle during a mesotherapy or biorevitalization session. So, injection therapy leads to short-term swelling, redness, the appearance of papules, which usually dissolve on their own 4-5 hours after the procedure.
How to choose professional cosmetics with peptides
Before thinking about how to choose cosmetics with peptides, it is worth deciding which brand can be trusted and which companies produce professional cosmetics characterized by a safe composition and high efficiency.
It is known that professional cosmetics cannot be purchased in regular stores. The cost of such funds cannot be low, because Dozens of specialists in various fields, dermatologists, chemists, cosmetologists, technologists, etc. are working on their development, and expensive substances and technologies are used to create them.
If we talk about salon procedures, then the choice of a manufacturer and a specific dermal reductant rests on the shoulders of a beautician who performs mesotherapy or biorevitalization. Once you get to a good specialist, you can rely on his opinion and experience.
Criteria for choosing professional peptide cosmetics:
- Manufacturer … Speaking about home remedies, you need to understand that the purchase of professional cosmetics with peptides should begin with the selection of a manufacturer. On the official website you can get comprehensive information on each company. Manufacturers with extensive experience have a wide range of products.
- Appointment … Choose a cream according to your skin type.
- Functionality … Clearly define what problems the cream should solve, what main tasks should be performed, for example, moisturizing, cleansing, protecting, rejuvenating, toning, whitening.
- Composition … It is important to study the composition of a cosmetic product. A high-quality cream with peptides can contain various extracts, refined oils, vitamins, bioactive complexes. In this case, the amount of excipients should be minimal.
- Availability of certificates … Do not forget that the evidence of the high quality and the efficiency declared by the manufacturer, as well as the safety of use, is the availability of quality certificates.
Varieties of peptides and their characteristics
It is worth dwelling in more detail on such criteria as the composition of cosmetics with peptides. There are so many types of peptide compounds, there are so many functions. Some of them are intertwined and duplicated, but still there is some kind of differentiation.
Here is a list of the most commonly used peptides in cosmetics and describe their main properties:
- Clotorfin … Stimulates the synthesis of elastin, triggers the mechanism of its correct assembly, which provides a lifting effect.
- DKI … It slows down the process of premature aging, helps moisturize the epidermis, and restores tone. It is often used as a preparation for peeling or laser resurfacing. is able to prevent the appearance of scars and irritation after these procedures.
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 … This peptide complex is the most attractive for cosmetologists, because it is multifunctional. Perfectly penetrates the skin, quickly activates the synthesis of collagen fibers and mucopolysaccharides. Increases the elasticity of the dermis. Stimulates regenerative resources, ensuring rapid regeneration of connective tissue and vascular walls. It is effective in strengthening the skin and in the fight against even deep wrinkles.
- Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) … Refers to regulatory peptides, because participates in the regulation and restoration of useful proteins elastin, collagen, which are the building blocks of the skin. Significantly improves the appearance of the skin.
- Hexapeptide-3 acetate (argireline) … Blocks the neurotransmitter catecholamine, which is responsible for nerve impulses. Relieves muscle spasm, tension of facial muscles, thereby eliminating fine wrinkles. The effect of hexapeptide-3 acetate is comparable to that of botulinum toxin, but does not have such a side effect as a "mask".
- Aqua-dextran-nonapeptide-1 (melanostatin-5TM) … Brightens the skin, removes age spots.
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 … Effectively absorbed by the skin. the base - part of immunoglobulin G - is attached to hexadecanoic acid. This complex is made from rice and soy. The main action is aimed at neutralizing inflammatory processes and activating protective functions. The beneficial effect is also expressed in moisturizing, increasing elasticity, eliminating dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (ridin) … It inhibits inflammation, optimizes the amount of cytokines, and rejuvenates the skin.
- Acetyl octapeptide-3 (New snap-8) … Destabilizes the long chain of protein that is responsible for muscle contraction, thereby helping to smooth wrinkles. The relaxing effect is higher than that of argireline.
Should I use cosmetics with peptides?
Given the size and structure of peptides, cosmetics that include them in the composition are more effective than the sensational products with elastin and collagen in the composition. As mentioned earlier, peptide molecules penetrate better through the stratum corneum of the skin.
The cream with peptides for the face, according to numerous studies of European and American scientists, has a deep effect that can not only provide a cosmetic effect for a certain period, like inexpensive creams, but also guarantee the smooth functioning of cells for a long time.
The highest efficiency is achieved with the timely start of use. Until about 35 years of age, the body independently synthesizes the necessary substances. After this age, the aging process accelerates significantly. Tissue cell maintenance should begin prior to this period.
Some researchers believe that dermal reductants are unable to exhibit the benefits attributed to them and only have a placebo effect. Others stand aside.
In conditions of controversy, it is worth relying on reviews of real buyers who have been using peptides for the face and body for a long period. The network has numerous responses from women who preferred the use of dermal reductants to expensive botulinum toxin injections and cheap creams and obtained the desired rejuvenation effect without side effects.
Creams such as Resist Intensive repair cream, New line, Mizon peptide ampoule cream, Laura, DNC, Echoice, Sengara, Idealia Vichy have become very popular.
What are face peptides - watch the video:
It is noteworthy that the demand for safe rejuvenation and maintenance of high functionality of all body systems is growing every day. At the moment, in addition to cosmetics, there are peptide preparations for internal use. According to their developers, they are able to slow down the aging process throughout the body as a whole.
