How to choose cosmetics with acids

2024 Author: Arianna Cook | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 14:23

We understand why it is so important and necessary to include acids in professional cosmetics. We study their varieties and application features depending on skin problems. Cosmetics with acids are medicinal products that help to make the skin clear and light, prolong its youthfulness, remove inflammation, blackheads and pigmentation, and also tighten the face contour. The acids gently exfoliate the upper layer of dead skin cells and activate the renewal of the dermis. Let's talk in more detail about how to choose and use these cosmetic products.

Description and purpose of acid-based cosmetics

Professional cosmetologists believe that each age is young in its own way. You can start using AHA or BHA products at any age. They will help improve the condition of the skin in adolescence and get rid of acne, activate cellular metabolism and slow down aging, smooth out wrinkles in older women.

It is possible to rejuvenate and cleanse the skin by removing dead skin cells of the epidermis mechanically using scrubs or chemically - acid-based exfoliation. Peeling with scrubs is a superficial cleansing of the skin, with possible negative consequences in the form of damage, is characterized by a short-term effect. The use of cosmetics with acids is more productive, since it, penetrating deep into the dermis, heals it from the inside and for a long time.

The acids used in most care and anti-aging cosmetics are divided into two main groups: AHA (water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid or fruit) and BHA (fat-soluble beta hydroxy acid or salicylic acid). On home remedies, the type of acid is usually abbreviated as “AHA” or “BHA” or the word “acid”. Each variety has its own purpose and is used for a specific purpose. When choosing a remedy with acids, proceed from your problem, taking into account their main capabilities:

• Cosmetics based on AHA acids … Helps retain water inside cells, keeping skin hydrated and healthy, and promotes collagen and elastin production. Fruit acids, working on the surface, help to care for dry, thickened (hyperkeratosis), pigmented, aging skin, remove the effects of acne (without acne). AHA acids include such acids - glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, grape, tartaric, almond and a number of others.
• Fat-soluble acids BHA … Passing through the layer of subcutaneous fat, they eliminate the blockage of the pores, exfoliate the dead cells of the dermis, increasing its ability to absorb nutrients. Cosmetics with salicylic acid are most indicated for oily, combination and problem skin with acne. The group of BHA acids includes salicylic, phytic, azelaic acids.
• Other acids … Other acids used in cosmetology are also important: orotic (against skin aging), benzoic (bactericidal), linoleic (omega-6) and alpha-linoleic (omega-3) acids (protection from environmental negative). Each of them plays its own therapeutic or caring role in cosmetics. Since they are not produced by the body on its own, your cosmetics must contain at least some of them.

To obtain a quality result, it is best to use products of the same brand. The cosmetics listed here with acids can be alternated, combined, used periodically, replacing with acid-free care products:

1. Acid lotions … Designed for deeper cleansing of pores after regular washing. Saturate a cotton pad with the product and wipe your face and neck thoroughly. Pore cleansing promotes better penetration of nutritious products into the skin.
2. Acid tonics … The products are applied after washing or cleansing with lotion. Delicately exfoliating the surface of the face, tonics with acids give it freshness and radiance, and prepare it for subsequent care. They act from the moment of application to the next washing.
3. Acid creams and serums … Excellent remedies for the treatment of problem skin. There are whole series of products in pharmacies containing targeted acids - exfoliating and moisturizing. In day and night creams, representatives of both groups are most often present - AHA and BHA. Therefore, cosmetics with acids are suitable not only for treating acne, but also for gentle peeling, that is, girls with any skin.
4. Acid masks … Acquaintance with "acidic" cosmetics is best to start with masks. Exfoliating, cleansing, and delicate exfoliation with acid-containing scrubs and masks can be done daily, but follow the manufacturer's label recommendations to avoid possible troubles. Secure youthfulness, purity, radiance of the skin and a tightened contour with a nourishing, soothing mask after an acidic one. At the same time, avoid products with vitamin C, which is destroyed by acids and becomes useless.

Important! The use of cosmetic preparations with acids makes the skin especially sensitive to the action of ultraviolet radiation. Start practicing them during periods of low solar activity. Be sure to apply a high protection cream (SPF15 or more) when leaving the room in sunny weather.

The main types of acids in cosmetics

To make the right choice of "acidic" cosmetics and get the maximum effect without negative consequences, you need to study in more detail the beneficial properties of each of the acids and buy the product in accordance with your skin type and age.

Most often, the following acids are present in cosmetics, each with its own purpose:

• Glycolic acid … This is the most popular tool of professional cosmetologists. Acting at the cellular level, it helps smooth out fine wrinkles, makes deep ones less noticeable, removes pigmentation of mature skin, heals acne, and tightens pores. The acid has a small molecular structure, which helps it to quickly pass into the lower layers of the epidermis.
• Lactic acid … It acts similarly to glycolic, but more gently, therefore it is recommended for owners of delicate, sensitive skin as an exfoliating agent. Lactic acid prevents the appearance of comedones, smoothes, removes scars and marks after acne, refreshes the complexion. It is able to bind water, increasing its content inside the dermis, and increasing skin toughness. In addition to its anti-aging effect, it is known for its whitening and antibacterial properties. Used in professional peeling products. Depending on its concentration, deep cleansing or correction of defects is performed. Collagen masks eliminate bags under the eyes, bruises and swelling.
• Mandelic acid … It is similar in its effect on the condition of the skin to glycolic, but, like milk, it has larger molecules. This prevents their uneven penetration into the dermis and eliminates the risk of hyperpigmentation. The acid gradually gets into the deep layers of the skin, frees the ducts of the sebaceous glands, pulls fat from the pores. It is used in cosmetics for peeling, lightening the skin, smoothing the contour of the face.
• Lemon acid … Deeply cleanses pores, tightens them, whitens the skin. Grape, tartaric and malic acids have a similar effect.
• Hyaluronic acid … Substance of a broad spectrum of action. It is worth highlighting as it does not belong to any of the groups. Its peculiarity is that it is produced by the body itself and cannot harm the skin even at 100% concentration. Maintains the moisture balance of the skin by binding water and keeping it inside the cells. Moisturized with anti-aging creams with hyaluronic acid, the skin becomes firmer, tighter, and not prone to premature wrinkles. Serums and lotions containing this substance give the face a healthy, smooth, well-groomed look.
• Alpha lipoic acid … A powerful natural antioxidant. Its function is to bind free radicals that harm the condition of the dermis. Funds with this substance are truly a "rejuvenating apple". The peculiarity of alpha-lipoic acid is that it works in an aqueous and fatty medium, therefore it is a frequent component of cosmetic products.
• Stearic acid … Being a fatty acid, it is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier (thickener). At the same time, it creates a film for the skin that protects against bad weather conditions: frost, wind, sunlight.
• Salicylic acid … A popular cosmetic product known since ancient times. There is nothing better for the treatment of oily, inflamed skin, various kinds of infectious rashes. This acid, due to its antibacterial properties, dries the integument a little without causing irritation. Pulls off fat from pores, frees the stomata of the sebaceous glands, dissolving plugs. Cosmetics based on it are indicated for getting rid of acne, comedones, inflammation, corns.
• Vitamin C … Vitamin C is useful not only in food, it is effective in cosmetics as a powerful antioxidant. Penetrating into the deep layers of the epidermis, it stops skin aging, evens out wrinkles, brightens the pigment, and protects from ultraviolet radiation.

The benefits of professional cosmetics with acids

Acidic face cosmetics are very effective. The result becomes noticeable after the first application. This indicates that, in small quantities, these substances are very beneficial for skin health.

Acidic cosmetics have the following beneficial properties:

1. They normalize the function of the sebaceous glands, eliminate the discomfort from excessively high oily skin.
2. Eliminate acne marks, lighten the spots left after acne, like no other remedy.
3. Comedones are removed - white subcutaneous and black spots.
4. They make the relief and skin tone more even, refresh the complexion, and reduce swelling.
5. Lighten age spots, making "spotting" almost invisible.
6. Moisturize and tone dry skin by binding water inside the epidermis.
7. Smooth out fine wrinkles, reduce deep ones by increasing skin turgor.
8. Eliminate small defects in the dermis: scars, scars, peeling.
9. They increase the protective properties of the skin, creating on it the thinnest film that covers it from the negative of the environment.
10. They activate microcirculation, collagen and elastin synthesis.
11. They soothe irritated skin with an active anti-inflammatory effect.

Important! Keep in mind that the acid concentration in some cosmetics can be as high as 70%. Improper use of such products instead of benefits can entail negative consequences: burns, allergies, hyperpigmentation, irritation.

Contraindications to the use of cosmetics with acids

When purchasing acid-based cosmetic products, read the label carefully. The content of this substance in home care products is small, but there may be contraindications to their use.

In order for the use of "acidic" cosmetics to bring only positive emotions, one should take into account their features and contraindications for use given here:

• Young skin … Young girls under the age of 22 should not seek help from acid-based face cosmetics. Young skin is capable of self-renewal; it does not need excessive stimulation. It is enough to apply moisturizing masks and eat more fruits to get the right amount of fruit acids.
• Stay in the sun … It is strictly forbidden to resort to products with AHA acids after prolonged exposure to the sun. Ultraviolet rays can cause hyperpigmentation of the skin and even lead to severe burns.
• Increased acid concentration … Pay attention to the percentage of AHA acids in the product. Exceeding the safe 3-5% is an alarm signal. Such a product is professional and requires training at the level of a qualified cosmetologist, therefore, it can cause serious damage to the skin.
• Childhood … AHA acids are completely unacceptable in cosmetic products for children. Certified baby cosmetics, as a rule, do not sin of this, but for the information of parents, a warning will not be superfluous.
• Acid allergy … Make sure you are not allergic to acid-containing cosmetics. To do this, first test the product by applying it to sensitive areas of the skin (on the wrist or in the elbow bend) for 10-15 minutes. Only proceed with a negative test result.
• Sensitive or irritated skin with acne … Requires close attention when using drugs with acids. Do not increase, but reduce the duration of action written in the instructions, lower the acidity. A slight tingling and tingling sensation is the norm, a signal about the start of the process, but in no case should the face burn with fire. Skin reddening appeared - without wasting time, wash off cosmetics with water at room temperature and run to a specialist dermatologist. Do not apply any cosmetic preparations to the affected dermis because you are not aware of their interactions with AHA acids.
• Fresh skin injuries, herpes … Injured skin needs protection. The acids will make her even more vulnerable to infection through wounds.
• Pregnancy … Many acids during pregnancy can cause allergic reactions. Hormonal changes in a woman's body provoke pigmentation, AHA acids can aggravate this process. Salicylic acid (beta-hydroxyl) is a mild exfoliating agent, a mild antiseptic, but it should be treated with caution, as it can lead to complications in the course of pregnancy and fetal problems.

Important! At the end of the cycle of treatments with "acid" cosmetics, continue to use sunscreens with SPF 15+, even if the preparations with AHA already contain UV protection. Sunscreen components are unstable at high acidity levels.

Types of cosmetics with acids for problem skin

The word "acid" sounds intimidating, but acids in cosmetic products are completely different substances, not those that were learned in chemistry lesson. Their action has a beneficial effect on the epidermis, freeing from dead cells, leading to renewal, rejuvenation and cleansing of the skin.

Cosmetics with fruit acids

Fruit acids are of natural and artificial origin. Natural ones are obtained from various plants such as sugar cane, blueberry, orange, lemon, maple.

Here are some effective cosmetics with AHA acids:

1. Mizon Skin Renewal Program (Korea) … The toner is intended for daily use and care for all types of skin, as it contains a small amount of acids. Cleans pores, removes clogging, evens out the dermis, normalizes its acid-base balance, prevents and reduces pigmentation. Serum from this brand contains a high concentration of AHA - 8%. Performs gentle exfoliation, tightens pores, and is suitable for problem skin care.
2. Line BLC AHA (Japan) … A series of products based on fruit acids for skin renewal. The foam deeply cleanses the skin from comedone plugs, giving it a fresh, healthy look. The lotion, in addition to glycolic, contains 5 more different AHA acids. Powerful cleanser, moisture retention agent. The cosmetics are suitable for daily use.
3. Meishoku Detсlear line (Japan) … The whole series is made on the basis of fruit acids, serves to cleanse and renew the skin. Consists of the following products: enzyme powder, peeling jelly (fruit and berry), moisturizing cream-gel. All brand products are designed to care for all types of skin, perform delicate cleansing, even out the relief, improve color, and protect from dehydration.

Hyaluronic acid cosmetics

Hyaluronic acid is the most demanded in cosmetology. This is one of the substances, the positive effect of which is noticeable from the beginning of use. Its main task is deep hydration. She copes with it better than others, so it is included in almost all moisturizers. Suitable for all skin types, especially for age, as it preserves youth and beauty, promotes the production of collagen and elastin, which increases the elasticity of the integument.

Consider the popular cosmetics with hyaluronic acid:

• Planter's Acido Hialuronico (Italy) … An eco-friendly brand of cream that contains hyaluronic acid and not its salt, which is the best. Makes the skin soft, smooth, moisturized, without the effect of film and shine on the face, does not clog pores.
• Cerave Moisturizing Lotion and Cream (USA) … Unique moisturizers containing ceramides and glycerin along with acid. Prevents moisture loss, promotes skin regeneration.
• It’s skin Hyaluronic Acid series (Korea) … A line of moisturizers for skin care of the "layer cake" type. Enriches the skin with moisture for 24 hours, revitalizing it and filling it with freshness, radiance and energy, tightens pores, protects collagen from destruction. In addition to hyaluronic acid, the products contain plant extracts of blueberry, acerola, purslane. A series for the care of dry, problematic and sensitive skin.
• Eveline bio HYALURON 4D (Poland) … An inexpensive cream with a super-effect 4D, with an excellent composition. Intensively moisturizes the face to the deepest layers of the epidermis, tightens, rejuvenates, protects. Suitable for all skin types.

Lactic acid cosmetics

Lactic acid is a delicate solution to several problems. It is found in fermented milk products, sauerkraut, blueberries, tomatoes, and grapes. It should be called the "gold standard" among all AHA acids for its unique and soft properties: it retains moisture, exfoliates, whitens, normalizes the thickness and condition of the epidermis.

Here are some examples of cosmetics based on lactic acid:

1. Noniсare series (Germany) … This is an organic cosmetic line (40+). Unique care products for mature skin based on noni fruit juice and lactic acid. They soften, even out the skin surface, normalize metabolic processes, provide a lifting effect, anti-inflammatory and anti-edema effect.
2. Swisslab Anti-aging spot-eraser (Switzerland) … It is an anti-aging serum for age spots. Restores youth to the skin, prevents and removes the first signs of aging. Suitable for all types.
3. Skin Doctors Superfacelift Cream (Australia) … A product with a lifting effect, acting on the basis of the latest peptide technology, fights sagging skin and wrinkles, triggers the mechanisms of skin regeneration, increases the collagen content in them, improves color, and improves elasticity.

Important! Avoid the concurrent use of cosmetics with lactic acid and retinol. Their tandem can lead to skin rashes, irritation.

Cosmetics with AHA and BHA acids

The abbreviation "AHA" comes from the Latin name for acid and stands for water-soluble alpha-hydroxy acids, "BHA" - fat-soluble beta-hydroxy acids. Most often, glycolic and lactic acids from the first group and salicylic acids from the second are added to cosmetics. Their combination leads to a decrease in sebum secretion, cleans pores, dries, disinfects, therefore it is recommended for problem skin.

Popular products with a combination of different types of acids for the treatment and care of problem skin:

• Clinique line (USA) … Products for problem skin contain salicylic acid. They reduce inflammation, sebum production, and fight bacteria on the surface of the dermis that cause acne.
• Derma E, Evenly Radiant Overnight Peel 60 (USA) … The lightest, gentle fluid, easy to apply, slightly sticky effect does not interfere, as it is applied at night. In its composition, malic and glycolic acids provide whitening, moisturizing, exfoliation of the skin. Acne dries up, the number of comedones decreases. The effect is equal to a visit to the SPA salon.
• Ecco Bella, Leave-On Invisible Exfoliant & Blemish Remedy (USA) … It is a leave-in exfoliant gel with a rare combination of acids - AHA 6% and BHA 2% (salicylic acid). This is a non-aggressive acid peel that liquefies sebum, reduces acne, cleanses and tightens pores, and removes blemishes.

Deep cleansing of the skin will leave it healthy, smooth and supple. The main thing is not to forget important rules when choosing cosmetics for the face with acids. It is moderation and compatibility with your skin type. Watch the video about fruit acids:

Acidic cosmetics are gaining popularity all over the world. However, it should be borne in mind that acids are currently not fully understood, and in this regard, there is no complete confidence that their use in the future will not have a negative effect on the condition of the skin. If you do not have an urgent need to exfoliate, weigh the pros and cons before resorting to it. Only then will acid cosmetics for home use become worthy to become one of your favorites and transform your skin in a short time.