The article provides an algorithm for draining damp walls in old buildings. How to dry damp walls - a step-by-step algorithm for performing work. Very often, the outer and inner walls of old buildings are in a deplorable state. Low air temperature and high humidity are detrimental factors. The result is that the plaster falls off in huge chunks. What can be done to improve the current situation?
Modern buildings are being erected using special technologies, which include protecting walls from the effects of precipitation and temperature changes. But what about old buildings? After all, there is not always money and the ability to demolish one old building and build in its place a new one that meets all the customer's requirements. In principle, it is quite simple to drain the damp walls of an old building: you just need to know how to approach this procedure.
So, let's get down to the wall drainage algorithm. By the way, the method given below is called "injection".
Let's say you have an old house. It is still strong and you can live in it. But there is one global "but": the walls are so damp that the facade plaster falls off in pieces, exposing the brickwork. In addition to moisture itself, salts that are contained in rainwater also bring in a destructive factor: they also help dampness corrode your walls. There is only one way to solve the problem: make an "injection" using a special composition - "Hydral HS". The method is pretty simple:
1) Remove any hanging pieces of old damp plaster from the wall!
2) "Blind" holes must be drilled from the front (outer) side of the building. Step back from the ground itself 10 - 15 centimeters in height and start drilling the wall around the perimeter, without exceeding the selected drilling level! (In general, the holes should run along the perimeter of the whole house, at the same height, for example, 20 centimeters from the ground. You don't need to drill holes along the entire wall!). The distance between the holes should be no more than 10 centimeters. The holes must be at least 10 to 15 centimeters deep. Ideally, the hole depth should be about 90% of the wall thickness. (For example, the wall thickness is 20 centimeters, which means that the depth of the hole should be 16-18 centimeters). The number of holes depends on the size of the wall. And one more important point: the drilling angle should go down and be 40 ° - 45 °!
3) After finishing drilling, you need to clean (as much as possible) the holes: this is very important, because these are the holes you will be doing "injections". 4) Now it is necessary to insert a special cylinder with the composition "Hydral HS" into each hole and make an "injection"!
5) At the end of the "grafting", the holes must be plugged with cement: the proportion is 1: 3, where 1 is part of the sand, and 3 is the cement. (For the "laymen" I will explain that the word "part" means weight! Moreover, the weight can be either grams or kilograms. It will just be easier to understand what should be put into the mixture more and what less).
That's the whole procedure! Now a couple of words about what happens after the "injection". Look: Immediately after penetrating the wall, the "Hydral HS" solution reacts with the moisture contained in the wall. As a result of this reaction, a protective waterproof barrier is created! And it is thanks to this reaction that the damp walls gradually begin to dry out. The only inconvenience is that you will be able to plaster the wall after a few months!
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